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When replacing the pinion seal, should you replace the pinion nut?
Tip..take a center punch, mark the end of the pinion and a corresponding mark on the nut for reference, you could also note the number of threads exposed but it will become quite obvious when you re-torque that nut. As mentioned use loctite, I also put a good silicone on the case ( outside ) of the seal and lubriplate on the seal surface prior to installation. Have a good look at the yoke and make sure the seal surface isn't grooved too badly.Thanks to all for the input. Much appreciated. I think i am going to just replace the pinion seal. If it causes issue then I will work on it over the winter! that is provided summer ever gets to Chicago!
I agree with Al, but I'd go to 150 ft-lbs on the nut. You still will not crush the sleeve at this level. I've done this several times without issue.It takes 200lbs torque plus to crush a sleeve.
If all your doing is replacing the seal, use Loctite on the nut and re-torque to 100lbs and ride.
This has been done many times! And is a common repair done without issues.
No need to replace the crush sleeve.
Yes it is a cheep part, but it's not easy to get to it. It will require the removal of the differential. And then in most cases of installing the new sleeve with old bearing will put to much load on the bearings that have already developed a wear pattern.
Been down this road many times.
IMO
Al
While it may take 300 ft/lbs to initiate crush, once the collapsing occurs the metal bends with less force. Re-torquing the sleeve, even to a lighter 150 ft/lbs, will more than likely crush it too far and require replacement.Can I re-use a crush sleeve?
No. Once the crush sleeve's tension between the bearings is released it cannot hold the proper tension again. This is also true if a crush sleeve is over-crushed during installation. It must be discarded and replaced with a new one.
Sleeves are cheap but in GM's case, paying warranty labor costs make this method cheaper for them.1.Mark the drive shaft and pinion flange so they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect drive shaft.... <edited down>
3.Mark position of pinion flange pinion shaft and pinion nut so proper bearing pre-load can be maintained.
4.Remove pinion flange nut and washer.
5.Remove pinion flange.
6.Remove oil seal by driving it out of the carrier with a blunt chisel.
7. Examine seal surface of pinion flange for tool marks, nicks or damage, such as a groove worn by seal. If damaged replace...
8.Examine carrier bore and remove any burrs that might cause leaks around OD of seal.
9.Install new seal as shown.
10. Apply special seal Lubricant No. 1050169 or equivalent to the OD of the pinion flange and sealing lip of new seal.
11.Install pinion flange and tighten nut to the same position as marked in step 3. While holding the pinion flange as shown in Fig., tighten nut 1/16" beyond alignment marks.
same here. Replaced tons of them at the dealership.It takes 200lbs torque plus to crush a sleeve.
If all your doing is replacing the seal, use Loctite on the nut and re-torque to 100lbs and ride.
This has been done many times! And is a common repair done without issues.
No need to replace the crush sleeve.
Yes it is a cheep part, but it's not easy to get to it. It will require the removal of the differential. And then in most cases of installing the new sleeve with old bearing will put to much load on the bearings that have already developed a wear pattern.
Been down this road many times.
IMO
Al