removal and installation
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37 Posts
Make sure you unhooked everything. Twice. :yes: And check as you're lifting the engine, too. That's the first hard lesson I learned when pulling my engine inmy S10.
Having a leveler for it helps a great deal, too, if you're pulling/installing the engine and tranny as one unit - which I recommend if you don't have the convenience of a lift to work under to get the tranny squared away.
Having a leveler for it helps a great deal, too, if you're pulling/installing the engine and tranny as one unit - which I recommend if you don't have the convenience of a lift to work under to get the tranny squared away.
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2,277 Posts
A Chilton or Haynes manual can be helpful as it gives a step by step approach. I am sure a web search will do the same.
I am hoping to install my engine/trans combo as soon as I get my oil pump in the mail
Do you guys have a preference on using either a plate attached to the intake at the carb location OR using a chain bolted to the front and back of the motor? I have always been skeptical of all that weight being suspended from four bolts into an aluminum manifold. I see it done so guess it is ok.
Also, will the engine/trans combo go in easier with the transmission crossmember installed or is it easier to get the combo in place, raise the back of the tranny, then slide in the crossmember?
sorry to hijack but figured these questions applicable to the OP.
I am hoping to install my engine/trans combo as soon as I get my oil pump in the mail
Do you guys have a preference on using either a plate attached to the intake at the carb location OR using a chain bolted to the front and back of the motor? I have always been skeptical of all that weight being suspended from four bolts into an aluminum manifold. I see it done so guess it is ok.
Also, will the engine/trans combo go in easier with the transmission crossmember installed or is it easier to get the combo in place, raise the back of the tranny, then slide in the crossmember?
sorry to hijack but figured these questions applicable to the OP.
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1,572 Posts
Rear cross member after you get the front motor mounts seated. That is my preference. One less thing to fight. You may need to lift the rear of the transmission to get the motor mounts in place. If too much of an angle they may not go.A Chilton or Haynes manual can be helpful as it gives a step by step approach. I am sure a web search will do the same.
I am hoping to install my engine/trans combo as soon as I get my oil pump in the mail
Do you guys have a preference on using either a plate attached to the intake at the carb location OR using a chain bolted to the front and back of the motor? I have always been skeptical of all that weight being suspended from four bolts into an aluminum manifold. I see it done so guess it is ok.
Also, will the engine/trans combo go in easier with the transmission crossmember installed or is it easier to get the combo in place, raise the back of the tranny, then slide in the crossmember?
sorry to hijack but figured these questions applicable to the OP.
I put miy engine & tans in with the plate. Just make sure you use all 4 bolts and have good thread engagement and they all tighten against the plate. Grade 5 or better bolts/studs is a good idea.
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768 Posts
Are you taking the motor out without the transmission or are you bringing that out with the motor as well? Like the others said, unhook everything and then check twice more to make sure everything is unhooked. Leave the motor mounts until last. It's pretty straight forward and not that hard to do once you dive in. I've never pulled a motor larger than a 4 cylinder and just dove right in when I did mine. I'm still alive and the car is unharmed. The only thing that gave me concern was when I was lifting the motor out it looked like it was stuck or still attached. The front of the car kept raising up with the motor but it eventually gave and the motor came right out. If you run into any trouble at all post here and we'll be happy to help you out.
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438 Posts
Joined
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768 Posts
I again agree with the above user. Use zip lock baggies and label them for what bolts go where, it will save you a ton of headaches. I pulled my motor out by using a chain in an "X" pattern to the intake manifold bolt holes with 4 bolts. I have seen my buddies Uncle lift out his 502 with a plate on the intake manifold.
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89 Posts
If you're removing an engine to build it and re-install it then the best thing my old man ever taught me was to get some cheap ziplock bags, masking or duct tape, and a sharpie permanent marker. That way you can run some tape on the ends of your wires as you take them off to label what they go to and thread all loose bolts back in where the came out or put them into ziplock bags and write where they came from on them.
Organization is the best start to a proper engine pull/install.
Organization is the best start to a proper engine pull/install.
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347 Posts
Some of the best points have already been made here. I'm just going to list and try to add something... so forgive me guys if I relist your notes here..
1. Baggies Baggies Baggies!! You will ALWAYS lose / misplace bolts if not.
Mark em good and put em away, it's cheap and I miss less things now.
2. Engine alone: Remove DS from rear, but leave in tranny (leaky leaky if u don't)
2b. Loosen / remove tranny mount bolts to slide tranny some.
3. Do all unbolting underneath as much as possible in 1 setting.
4. Small, non bottle jack and board for tranny.
5. Get some Long and many extensions with your 9/16? sockets. get behind the tranny and use them, can make many tight spots, easier.
6. Check and RECHECK all wires and hoses!
7. Pull with a leveler if you can, much easier for me.
8. Label hoses as well, also be sure to be careful with hardened plastic tubes if you plan on reusing the stock items. At these ages, they're much more brittle then you think.
9. PROTECT your radiator! I've seen people have tools slung into them and ppl falling on them.. MOVE EM out of the way! Save yourself some money and heartache.
10. Repeat after me... "Do NOT sit on the windshield...DO NOT sit on the windshield" More breaky breaky = money money.
11. Give yourself plenty of time, recheck all fittings, hoses and wires, keep things labeled, take photos if you have too. Use friends and cash in those favors and KEEP SAFE!
SAFETY SAFETY! Use Jackstands for Chr. Sake, please don't let us hear of a car falling on you because the jack busted a seal. It's happened to me! A tire and a log saved meh life!
Get some safety glasses and USE THEM! Rust likes to relocate from the sides of the exhaust to your eyeballs... they like it there.
1. Baggies Baggies Baggies!! You will ALWAYS lose / misplace bolts if not.
Mark em good and put em away, it's cheap and I miss less things now.
2. Engine alone: Remove DS from rear, but leave in tranny (leaky leaky if u don't)
2b. Loosen / remove tranny mount bolts to slide tranny some.
3. Do all unbolting underneath as much as possible in 1 setting.
4. Small, non bottle jack and board for tranny.
5. Get some Long and many extensions with your 9/16? sockets. get behind the tranny and use them, can make many tight spots, easier.
6. Check and RECHECK all wires and hoses!
7. Pull with a leveler if you can, much easier for me.
8. Label hoses as well, also be sure to be careful with hardened plastic tubes if you plan on reusing the stock items. At these ages, they're much more brittle then you think.
9. PROTECT your radiator! I've seen people have tools slung into them and ppl falling on them.. MOVE EM out of the way! Save yourself some money and heartache.
10. Repeat after me... "Do NOT sit on the windshield...DO NOT sit on the windshield" More breaky breaky = money money.
11. Give yourself plenty of time, recheck all fittings, hoses and wires, keep things labeled, take photos if you have too. Use friends and cash in those favors and KEEP SAFE!
SAFETY SAFETY! Use Jackstands for Chr. Sake, please don't let us hear of a car falling on you because the jack busted a seal. It's happened to me! A tire and a log saved meh life!
Get some safety glasses and USE THEM! Rust likes to relocate from the sides of the exhaust to your eyeballs... they like it there.
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3,959 Posts
Since it's your first time, take lots pictures before you start and of anything you are not sure of.
Use a black permanent marker (Sharpie) and mark where your hinges are on the hood. Much easier to get the hood back in the right place if it's close to start with when you put it back on.
Personally I feel it easier to use a tilt bar and take the engine and trans out together. No mater how much you drain an automatic transmission it will still leak out the tail shaft. If you look in the second picture, there is a red plastic tail shaft plug in the back of the transmission. You can get the for a few bucks and save having to clean up a transmission fluid mess.
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Use a black permanent marker (Sharpie) and mark where your hinges are on the hood. Much easier to get the hood back in the right place if it's close to start with when you put it back on.
Personally I feel it easier to use a tilt bar and take the engine and trans out together. No mater how much you drain an automatic transmission it will still leak out the tail shaft. If you look in the second picture, there is a red plastic tail shaft plug in the back of the transmission. You can get the for a few bucks and save having to clean up a transmission fluid mess.
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2,277 Posts
All good points have been made. Call me crazy, but I currently have 3 jackstands under my car, ON EACH SIDE! safety first. Also keep the floor jack in there as well.
No way am i installing my engine with the carb plate. Those 4 small diameter holes holding several hundred pounds just doesn't feel right. I'll go with a chain and some install brackets or try to find / borrow that tilt bar.
No way am i installing my engine with the carb plate. Those 4 small diameter holes holding several hundred pounds just doesn't feel right. I'll go with a chain and some install brackets or try to find / borrow that tilt bar.
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