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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is anyone aware of an aftermarket brace that temporarily fits into a '72 (68-72?) hood hinge to keep hood open at shows, etc?
I had Harwood 200, then 210 springs. Wouldn't keep my 2" cowl hood open. Harwood advised against going to a 215 spring. I don't want to mess with a prop rod and booger up the underhood appearance (plus I already tried to adapt one with no luck).
I see they offer them for Tri-Five Chevys. Don't care to fabricate one if they're already available somewhere.
 

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Can you drill hole in the hinge in the upright position? Then put a pin in it when the hood is up. It seems like I have saw that done before with a glass hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here's the one for Tri-Five Chevys
http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-hood-hinge-support-brace-1955-1957.html
Yes, my hood is fiberglass. That's why the Harwood springs have me scratching my head. When I start the car (although I admit 550 hp) the hood slams shut.

I'll have to take a closer look on the "drilling the hinges and pin" concept. I think I looked and didn't find too many mating flat surfaces in the hinge to do it easily.
 

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Can you drill hole in the hinge in the upright position? Then put a pin in it when the hood is up. It seems like I have saw that done before with a glass hood.
X2 ^^ this is what a friend of mine does.:yes:
 

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Okay, it's time for me to ask one of my stupid questions. Does the tri-five brace fit? Okay, so how far off is it? Too long? Too short? Can it be cut and a section added or removed the welded back together? How about getting some scrap plate and sawing your own? Most of the cuts can be done on a table saw with a decent carbide blade. Got any buddies that do NC machining? It looks pretty easy to program, mostly straight flat cuts except at the ends, but even once they are set up, they are straight flat cuts. If you were nearby, I'd say come on over and we could make them here.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, after further review, I guess Nova Guy has the right idea. Where the front curved metal piece of the hinge comes down, and just above the connection, there is probably a 1" square area (or larger) where the 2 flat mating surfaces could be drilled. I think I'll get a clevis pin, and cable-tie it right to the spring so it's always there. Maybe even put one of those red aircraft tags that says "Remove Before Flight" as a reminder before trying to close the hood (which would not be good). Oh yeah:yes:
 

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Well, after further review, I guess Nova Guy has the right idea. Where the front curved metal piece of the hinge comes down, and just above the connection, there is probably a 1" square area (or larger) where the 2 flat mating surfaces could be drilled. I think I'll get a clevis pin, and cable-tie it right to the spring so it's always there. Maybe even put one of those red aircraft tags that says "Remove Before Flight" as a reminder before trying to close the hood (which would not be good). Oh yeah:yes:
Yeap used to drill them and just put a bolt thru them.
 

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I have the same trouble with mine, running a Harwood glass hood.
I propped it up where I wanted it to be (not all the way) and drilled a hole in each side through the hinges. Once parked you put the pins in place and never worry about it falling.

Mine was the same. It always seemed to want to "bite" somebody when they stuck their head inside enough. Novas truly have a mind of their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the responses.
By the way, I happend to see those "Remove Before Flight", nicely woven red tags with a metal ring (new) are all over the place on Ebay.
Great for the pin I have in mind, ....or the parachute safety clip on your rear bumpers!! Ha!! :yes:
 
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