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When you hook the battery to the solenoid are the rest of the terminals suppose to have power to them ? When I hook my battery to the 1 big term and put a test light on it I see it getting power. But if I test the opposite side term or either of the small terms I get nothing. I am wondering if the solenoid is bad ? Sorry if this is a dumb question. thanks is advance.
 

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Some solenoids or relays require them to be grounded through their mounting holes. Ideally nut and bolt this connection and do not rely on self tapping screws. Other styles of solenoids or relays will have a ground wire off of them.
The Ford style solenoids (which require them to be grounded through their mounting holes) will have two big terminals. One goes to the battery the other to the starter. The solenoid is not polarized so either terminal can be used in reverse also. One of the smaller terminals will be labeled "S" and this goes to a 12 volt output off of your ignition switch to where when the key is in the crank position, 12 volts gets applied to the solenoid, it then clunks, and then connects the one big terminal to the other big terminal and the starter is engaged.
Some solenoids will also have another small terminal on it. This one is normally marked "I". This terminal will show a 12 volt output only when the solenoid is activated and the big terminals are connected inside and the starter is engaged. This is used for powering old style points systems with a full 12 volts. Once the solenoid is deactivated this terminal goes dead as an output but may also show voltage once the car is running as then the ignition system is running of another wire off of the ignition switch. If it's an old style points system the voltage will be less on that terminal as it is then passed through a dropping resistor.
Jim
 

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does anyone know if they sell the adapter plate between the b and s terminals as a separate item?
If you mean the one that goes on the starter; you can make your own out of a strip of sheet metal. Took me all of 5 minutes to make one once. My new starter didn't have the terminals positioned the same as a stocker so I made a jumper out of 12ga. wire. The wire doesn't have to be a heavy gauge because it's so short current drop is minimal. Just solder the ring terminals on and use heat shrink. Never trust a crimp down there or anywhere for that matter. Every time I need a terminal on something I rip the plastic off the terminal, slide some heat shrink on the wire, solder them on and heat the shrink around the connection. It takes a lot longer to wire your car that way but you never have to worry about crimps getting corroded or loose then.



 

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If you mean the one that goes on the starter; you can make your own out of a strip of sheet metal. Took me all of 5 minutes to make one once. My new starter didn't have the terminals positioned the same as a stocker so I made a jumper out of 12ga. wire. The wire doesn't have to be a heavy gauge because it's so short current drop is minimal. Just solder the ring terminals on and use heat shrink. Never trust a crimp down there or anywhere for that matter. Every time I need a terminal on something I rip the plastic off the terminal, slide some heat shrink on the wire, solder them on and heat the shrink around the connection. It takes a lot longer to wire your car that way but you never have to worry about crimps getting corroded or loose then.
VERY NICE PICS. thats what Ive got in the habit of doing too after deciding to redo my charging system. it makes me feel better about everything. converting to efi and redoing my whole charging system, plus wiring up all my gauges, Ive probably had to make 100+ connections in the last few months. I wouldnt be able to sleep at night if those were crimped lol

btw, I love the stud you have in that pic above. I bought them from the junkyard for less than a buck each and used them everywhere. last count I have four in the car, and plenty more left over if I ever need them.

thanks for the tip on the connector. I think I'll do the ring terminal deal you suggested.

my main charging stud. first soldering job i did so it was rough but its much better now and Ive also got in the habit of double shrinking the joints



question for you: I picked up a couple of ford starter solenoids at the junkyard. can these be used as a high amp relay for something like a ford taurus electric fan that draws about 42 amps on high?
 

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Solenoids aren't designed for continuous use. Painless has some really high current relays for that. The solenoid makes an excellent place for accessory power also, things that need constant high amp battery voltage, like stereos and ignition boxes. The block I used I got from Jegs, it was cheap and made life easier. Just fuse stuff as close to the power source as possible, don't want to see any more rides in flames. I just added that fuse in my picture, it goes to the MSD 6A and Timing computer's constant power. I spent some worried filled days until I had that fuse there, now I sleep better.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/Keywordsearch.php?partsearch=30100
 

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If you mean the one that goes on the starter; you can make your own out of a strip of sheet metal. Took me all of 5 minutes to make one once. My new starter didn't have the terminals positioned the same as a stocker so I made a jumper out of 12ga. wire. The wire doesn't have to be a heavy gauge because it's so short current drop is minimal. Just solder the ring terminals on and use heat shrink. Never trust a crimp down there or anywhere for that matter. Every time I need a terminal on something I rip the plastic off the terminal, slide some heat shrink on the wire, solder them on and heat the shrink around the connection. It takes a lot longer to wire your car that way but you never have to worry about crimps getting corroded or loose then.



I was wondering. What is that orange wire with the fuse for?? where do have it hooked up to??
 
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