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Discussion Starter #1
I just put in a new coolant fan controller. When it turns the fans on this is a variable speed controller the relay that turns the gear vindor on and off chatters. They are not tied together at any point. The new controller is digital it’s a ProFlow. So what have I done wrong this time??
 

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My guess.You may not be getting enough voltage to the relay if running through a rheostat controller. This causes the voltage to be higher when no load on it..but once a load is created the voltage drops enough for the relay to cut out. Then it cuts back in after it cuts out because the voltage has increased...causing it to bounce. I'm sure Jim can explain better than me. Referred as voltage drop, under load. Kinda shooting in the dark....wiring diagram or pic by chance?
 

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I agree. It sounds like a power issue - either low voltage to the relay, or too much current being pulled by the fan.
 

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I just put in a new coolant fan controller. When it turns the fans on this is a variable speed controller the relay that turns the gear vindor on and off chatters. They are not tied together at any point. The new controller is digital it’s a ProFlow. So what have I done wrong this time??
The controller may be pulsing the signal and causing the relay chatter. The manufacturer may want you to run a solid state relay and not an electric/mechanical style and this could be your issue.

It's an unknown as we have no idea as to the model of the controller (I went to ProFlow's website and did not see a controller but maybe supply a link with instructions to the one you bought).

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Adjustable Variable Speed Fan Controller - P/N 69596
Product Contents
Billet Aluminum Control Box (Fig 1. for wire reference)
(A) Blue Wire: Positive (+); Fan 1; (C) Blue Wire: Fan 2 (if applicable) (B) Red Wire: Positive (+); Battery
(D) Green Wire: Positive (+); Ignition
(E) Single Black Wire: Ground (-); Chassis or other Grounding
(F) Double Black Wire: Sensor to Push-in Probe or Threaded Probe Thread-in Probe (1 x)
Push-in Probe (1 x)
Mounting Screws (4 x)
About the Product
The PROFORM®️ Digital Variable Speed Fan Controller is an efficient cooling solution that helps optimize engine performance. The controller is compatible with one or two traditional 12-volt, brushed motor, after- market electric fans typically ranging in size from 10” to 16” diameter. The digital controller is weather and temperature resistant, but should be mounted under the hood in a place that isn’t directly exposed to the elements or excessive engine heat. The controller is designed to handle up to a total of 45 amps, and employs a gradual ramp up to minimize amperage spikes during turn on. In the unlikely event that 45 amps is exceeded, the controller’s amp limiter can be reset by turning the vehicle off, and then back on. The controller can be used with single or dual fan setups. Please see the wiring diagram for more information.
Turning the vehicle power on will automatically turn on the fan control- ler, and the red digital display will light up. The default display is current engine temperature. The controller is preset at 185° F, and will save the last temperature set point between vehicle uses. The fan(s) will begin to run slowly when the engine temperature is 7-8 degrees below the set temperature, and will increase in speed as the engine temperature ap- proaches the set temperature. The kit includes two brass temperature sensing probes, one for pushing between the cooling fins on the hot side of the radiator core, and the other to thread into the cylinder head, radi- ator, or intake manifold (water jacket).
Using the Control Box (Fig. 2)
The controller’s digital display will toggle display betweeen degrees in Fahrenheit (°F), Celsius (°C) and the total amp draw in real time by press- ing the “MODE” (1) button.
Press the “SET” (2) button once. The first digit will be a “U” followed by the current set temperature. Use the “+” (3) and “-” (4) buttons to adjust the temperature. Press the “SET” button once to store the temperature setting. The controller will store the temperature setting for future use. If untouched, the digital display will turn off. Press any button once to turn it back on.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2

Adjustable Variable Speed Fan Controller (cont.)
Wiring Diagram
Fan 1 Battery Fan 2 Ignition Ground Sensor (positive +) (positive +) (optional) (+ 12V) (chassis) (2 options)
Radiator
Control Box
For additional tech support, please call (586)774-2500, Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. EST, or email [email protected]
©️ 2018 Specialty Auto Parts U.S.A., Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry about the above post but that’s the controller I have. I copied it. It just didn’t come out the same. I have the red wire going to a power box coming right off the alternator. Green wire is going to keyed power from a fuse box. Black ground. The controller is wired all to it’s self. I have five relays in all and the Gear Vindor is the only one making the chatter. Don’t want to change that relay it’s about a $50 relay. Any help would be appreciated in a big way. Trying to get my new setup going before weather sets in and I can’t drive it. New motor new transmission. I’m ready to drive if I can get all the little bugs fixed. Thanks
 

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Adjustable Variable Speed Fan Controller - P/N 69596
Product Contents

The controller’s digital display will toggle display betweeen degrees in Fahrenheit (°F), Celsius (°C) and the total amp draw in real time by press- ing the “MODE” (1) button.
Press the “SET” (2) button once. The first digit will be a “U” followed by the current set temperature. Use the “+” (3) and “-” (4) buttons to adjust the temperature. Press the “SET” button once to store the temperature setting. The controller will store the temperature setting for future use. If untouched, the digital display will turn off. Press any button once to turn it back on.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2

Adjustable Variable Speed Fan Controller (cont.)
Wiring Diagram
Fan 1 Battery Fan 2 Ignition Ground Sensor (positive +) (positive +) (optional) (+ 12V) (chassis) (2 options)
Radiator
Control Box
For additional tech support, please call (586)774-2500, Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. EST, or email [email protected]
©️ 2018 Specialty Auto Parts U.S.A., Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Do you have a meter? Only way a relay will cut out is with voltage drop..if voltage holds steady...relay will hold steady(at 12 v). Digital meter will show you a fluctuation(bounce) as it is on(running). If your temp sensor is a rheostat type it changes voltage to the relay(same way as how you dim your dash lights...from 0-12 volts) which may not be enough to hold relay on. A rage switch is a more positive signal,it has a contact for every setting,which allows for less resistance. As stated by Jim..maybe run a ss relay (takes less voltage/amperage). Still a wiring diagram would be nice...as we are all just guessing. Hope you get her figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They don’t has Wiring diagram just what I posted if there was one I would have posted it. I’m going to call them Monday and see what they say about it. May have to run a relay on the keyed power side. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Everything is clean no voltage drop. This fan relay brings the fans on very slowly. As to not have a spike in the voltage. Soon as it comes on the Gear Vindor relay starts chattering. All grounds are to bare metal and I have a star washer under each of them. All the wiring in the car is new I just got done rewiring the whole car. Thanks I’ll keep digging at it.
 

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I just put in a new coolant fan controller. When it turns the fans on this is a variable speed controller the relay that turns the gear vendor on and off chatters. They are not tied together at any point. The new controller is digital it’s a ProFlow. So what have I done wrong this time??

While you may not think you are tied together at any point, if you have both wired to a single source of power such as a single battery, then they are tied together at some points.

There is a good suggestion to check power and grounds AND using a meter to check things out also. I don't know what you are using for a meter but ideally if you can get a meter with a peak hold this might expose things that might not be seen with a slowly reacting meter. Sometimes you can get a split second drop or peak and some meters cannot change the display quick enough for you to see the change.

While this may be a long shot, I have seen wires next to each other induce signals into another but by routing them away from each other the issue goes away.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I called about the controller. No luck everyone in there Tech department is at SEMA so looks like it will be a week before I can talk to anyone there. I don’t have a meter that reads that fast. I’ve pulled the grounds off and made sure that was all clear didn’t help. Tried moving some wires around to see if anything would help nope.
 

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So I called about the controller. No luck everyone in there Tech department is at SEMA so looks like it will be a week before I can talk to anyone there. I don’t have a meter that reads that fast. I’ve pulled the grounds off and made sure that was all clear didn’t help. Tried moving some wires around to see if anything would help nope.
Is it possible to change the chattering relay with another one but of a different brand ?.

Just throwing out some idea's which may not tell us much but I remember having a clicking relay (it would click on and off but I cannot remember how fast this was happening to where it might have been considered chattering but memory fails me) when I was using a signal from a Dakota Digital Shift Indicator to activate some reverse lights on a custom car.

I found some info on a website about how much current the Bosch style relay was pulling and we had a relay at the shop that the coil drew a lot less power and it took care of the clicking (or what could be called chattering).



Relay we had at the shop that I used:





Jim
 
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