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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i hear a lot of guys talking about redneck converters on this site, and from what i hear theyre good. heres the deal. i have a b&m holeshot 3000 that was my fathers. this converter scares me b/c i know theyre not the best converter, and i have a fresh th350 race tranny i dont want to have gone over if the converter blows. so, are these converters as good as everyone says? do you think im wasting my money ditching the b&m and goin for the redneck? do u think 3000 stall is enough? (the car is a 71 nova, will be about 3350#. will have either a 355 or 383, 10:5:1 compression, comp 294s cam, th350, 4:10s, 28" tire, DRIVEN DAILY, AND RACED EVERY WEEKEND) ...or will 3500 be better? ...hang in there only a few more questions:rolleyes: ....what kind of gas mileage do you get with a 3000/3500? what can you cruise at with a 3000/3500? and lastly, this is the right company right?:D http://search.stores.ebay.com/redneck-converter_W0QQcatrefZC6QQsacatZQ2d6QQstorehubsubmitZSearch

EDIT: WOW this is old! Before my car was even near completion, BEFORE the wreck:eek: I was 15 at this time:D
 

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i just got my redneck 3500 stall last week, cant beat the price, it was like 280 bucks shipped to my door.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
big dog ss said:
i just got my redneck 3500 stall last week, cant beat the price, it was like 280 bucks shipped to my door.
how is it on the street? what do u cruise at and what kind of mileage u get?
 

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I don't know about the redneck conv. I've run a B&M behind a 450hp small block in a nova and behind a 675hp big block in a chevelle. I'd check redneck out very well first. Remember "you get what you pay for". If this is a daily driver/weekend warrior, I'd spend the $$$ to get the best. COMP recommends at least 3000 stall with that cam. Lastly, the motor, rear gears and tires will affect mpg more than stall speed.
 

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I had a B&M converter come apart and take out a 700R4 transmission a couple of years ago. It had like 5000 street driven miles on it. A buddy of mine brought a B&M converter at the same time I purchased mine and is still running it. The difference was that I purchased the converter with Torrington Bearings. He purchase the cheaper version. One of the Torrington bearings came apart inside the converter. Transmission Parts Unlimited (in Lake City,Ga) cut it apart to see what failed and then returned it to me. They said it was common in B&M converters. My buddy (a Certified Master Mechanic & very sharp technician) is convince that this problem is specific to converters with the Torrington bearings and the rest of B&M converters are fine. His converter is still trucking along in a hopped up '85 C10 4x4 so it would be hard to argue against his theory. (He runs his truck a lot harder than I run my car.)

BTW: I'm not vendor bashing. I am relaying a personal experience.;)
 

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I've never heard of Redneck convertors and with a name like that I'd probably stay away. I've run a GER convertor and definately stay away. 23 runs and it was JUNK. Bad news. I run Coan. Never had a problem and people are really nice to talk to. Quality stuff. Talk to Art. The convertor is the brains behind your engine/chassis combo. Go with a quality brand and forget about it. Coan, ATI, TCI, B&M, etc. You won't regret it. Dave
 

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right now im running a 355 with TH350 and 4.10gears.. dont know mpg, i dont really care to be honest. street manners are good.. as soon as the weather stays nice then i can really run it thru the paces!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
65 Post said:
I've never heard of Redneck convertors and with a name like that I'd probably stay away. I've run a GER convertor and definately stay away. 23 runs and it was JUNK. Bad news. I run Coan. Never had a problem and people are really nice to talk to. Quality stuff. Talk to Art. The convertor is the brains behind your engine/chassis combo. Go with a quality brand and forget about it. Coan, ATI, TCI, B&M, etc. You won't regret it. Dave
thats really odd, because my father ran a GER 5500stall for 3 seasons going from mid 11s, to high 10s...then, my brother put it in his car without getting it checkedout...still works fine. we usually deal with pro torque and ati, its just i dont have the $$$ for a real good converter...to be honest, i really dont trust the B&M converter...it wasnt new when my dad bought it in his car, and he ran it for about 25 passes going 11.70s 5 years ago, so its an old converter...i still have the GER, but the 5500 stall is wwaayy too much. im pretty much boned here.
 

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Well, my experience with the GER was, I had a 69 Chevelle that I was hot to get it to the track. Saw a BIG ad for GER in a magazine. Wow, a 10" convertor for around $179. In two days it was in my hands. Car worked good. For 23 passes. The last pass turned it to junk. While unbolting it from the flexplate, when turning engine over to get to other bolts, heard nothing but rattling and clunking from in the convertor. When it was out, I looked inside and there was nothing there. Everything exploded. Besides that, my trans had soooooo much metal in it, that it had to be rebuilt again. That's when I used my lifetime warranty and got it replaced and sold it. Then when I called to check on it, they lost it for 3 days. I heard their high dollar convertors are OK but the low end ones are junk. It's Coan for me. Dave
 

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Ok call me stupid:rolleyes: but who the heck is GER????...I have never heard of them:confused:
 

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69NovaSS said:
Ok call me stupid:rolleyes: but who the heck is GER????...I have never heard of them:confused:
You're better off not knowing who they are. I bought an alledged 3500 convertor from them years ago. Got it installed and it was as tight or tighter than a stock convertor. They agreed that if I would send it back they would "adjust" it for me to increase the stall. 3 months and several dozen phone calls later I got it back and could tell no difference what-so-ever.
 

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Gennerally, you get what you pay for. However, when you're on a budget, you don't really have too many options. You can either wait to drive your car for several months while you save enough money to buy a top quality converter, or you can find something in your budget that will be reliable enough for your combination.

I don't know much about converters. I had my transmission guy recommend a converter (since my car is a drag car). It turned out to be a very spendy TCI, so that's what I went with. I think ATI and Coan make a quality converters as well.

Custom converters will work better with your car because they are tailored to your car's needs. If you can get a custom from Redneck Converters and the guys here are running them without any problems, give em a call and check into it. That's part of doing research. Talk to some of the other manufacturers as well. You will be able to tell a lot about a company just by talking to the people they employ to answer your questions.
 

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David_D. said:
Custom converters will work better with your car because they are tailored to your car's needs. If you can get a custom from Redneck Converters and the guys here are running them without any problems, give em a call and check into it. That's part of doing research.
That's exactly what I did. They have very low overhead (I think there's like 6 guys in their business) and don't do any advertising other than ebay to keep costs down. They are actually right down the street from Art Carr. I wonder if they use some of the Art Carr's housing and re-do the internals?

I knocked 3 tenths off my ET with more to come, by switching to their converter.



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My older brother bought a GER 3500 rpm converter. It stalled at about 1500 rpm; he sent it back and then they told him that with light weight and low gears he would have to decrease the size to get a 3500-4000 rpm stall. They replaced a 10" with a 9" converter to get the higher stall. It lasted quite a while and was in the car when he sold it. He did find a part number on it and the core was a Chrysler mini van FWD converter core.
 

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I was running a REDNECK Converter and had no issues, changed engine combo so I also changed converters, well the new converter does not work, putting the Redneck back in and ordering a new Redneck for this combo.
 

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thats really odd, because my father ran a GER 5500stall for 3 seasons going from mid 11s, to high 10s...then, my brother put it in his car without getting it checkedout...still works fine. we usually deal with pro torque and ati, its just i dont have the $$$ for a real good converter...to be honest, i really dont trust the B&M converter...it wasnt new when my dad bought it in his car, and he ran it for about 25 passes going 11.70s 5 years ago, so its an old converter...i still have the GER, but the 5500 stall is wwaayy too much. im pretty much boned here.
Why not contact Lenny over at UCC (Ultimate Converter Concepts) and see about getting your converter "Upgraded" and re-stalled? Seems like the easiest way to make sure you get a QUALITY piece that exactly fits YOUR needs for about half the cost.:yes:
http://www.ultimateconverter.com/
On a street/strip deal a GOOD, TIGHT converter will make all of the difference in the world.:yes: Especially in a heavy car.
 

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I'm glad this thread was brought back. I'm going to get a new converter and was thinking Redneck. I've been running the B&M Holeshot 3000 for about 6-7 yrs and haven't had a bit of trouble with it. I just need a 4000-4500 stall for my combo and don't have tha cash for an "expensive" converter.
 

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I'm glad this thread was brought back. I'm going to get a new converter and was thinking Redneck. I've been running the B&M Holeshot 3000 for about 6-7 yrs and haven't had a bit of trouble with it. I just need a 4000-4500 stall for my combo and don't have tha cash for an "expensive" converter.
Same goes for you. You might see what an "upgrade" would cost before you buy another converter to replace it.;)
 
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