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ok heres a f.a.q. so i have a 10 bolt 8.2 (the smaller 8.2) rearend in my 71 nova, i got 15x8 rally's for the rear and i would like to use the rims if i can but heres my problem, i have 65/235/r15 and they rub on the outter lip sure they would hit the inside of the body when i put them on the car, i really want 235/75/r15's in the back which are a little wider, so im wondering where to put my money at, do i take the rearend in and get it cut down on each side so i can fit the tires in the wheel wells more on center and slap bigger tires on it, OR, is it smarter and cheaper to get rims with different backspacing? (by the way i have about 2 inches on each side give or take on the inside of the tire) so i wanna move the tires in more so i can get the power to the ground without using grandma's skinny's as an alternative. thanks guys im sure almost all of us have run into this one before
 

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First off, get yourself a Percy's Wheelrite and stop guessing. Guessing costs money.



Then once you've got an actual measurement get a wheel in the offset you need. It'll be a whole lot cheaper than shortening an axle.

There may also be someone here on the site with your model that's been down the same road as you and can tell you what offset will work.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks this helps alot ill be posting a thread to see who has bought offset rear wheels for their third gen and see what info i can get i know cars differ and can be off by minimal dimensions so ill see how big of an offset people get to put me in the ballpark thanks bro!
 

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Did anyone happen to get anywhere with this? I am in the same predicament now, I know it’s a very old post but I’m trying. Summit sells the wheelrite that’s no biggie
 

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Sorry the 8’s not fitting in the back by messing up on the backspacing when I thought I got a really good deal on wheels
405461
 

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Sorry the 8’s not fitting in the back by messing up on the backspacing when I thought I got a really good deal on wheels View attachment 405461
With your situation, you messed up on the wheel backspace, since you were working with a set axle width and wheelwell width before you bought the wheels.

If you want to keep those wheels, your only choice is to narrow the axles to make the wheels fit....otherwise, buy a different set of wheels with the correct backspace.
I would not recommend spending money to narrow the 8.2" axle housing and buying new axles for it, it is just a poor choice due to weak differential strength.
Smarter move is to buy a different axle assembly in the correct needed width that is a stronger design like the 8.5" 10-bolt, 12-bolt car, 9" Ford, 8.8" Ford, or Dana 60.

Nice looking project, by the way...I dig the color.
 

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Thank you sir Eric, I do really like the Percy wheelrit, wish I would of known about that before. I didn’t know if I would get a hit on my other post since I’m so new so I just found a relative post.
 

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Honestly it all depends on the rest of your build. Narrowing an 8.2 is not a dumb option if the diff is suited to the HP and torque range the rest of the drive train is putting out. A 8.2 with after market parts can hold around 500hp in a nova in most cases. If running around 300hp stock internals would hold up under normal driving no problem.

Miles
 

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for now it will be a 331 nothing two crazy wise one flattops with 58cc heads 2.02/1.6 cast iron heads with a m-21 behind it and hydraulic clutch. But I did get a steal on a 400 sbc later on down the road I just won’t have the money to do it the way I want now, the 331 I have everything for just gonna tank it and put it back together with new. Bearings.
 

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They are such light cars I never dreamed of putting a 400 in one until I got this barn find but it’s gonna take some work and money to do it the way I want before next summer. Would love to do aluminum heads which may happen before next year.
 

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Honestly it all depends on the rest of your build. Narrowing an 8.2 is not a dumb option if the diff is suited to the HP and torque range the rest of the drive train is putting out. A 8.2 with after market parts can hold around 500hp in a nova in most cases. If running around 300hp stock internals would hold up under normal driving no problem.

Miles
While what you've said is true, I look at it this way in Zman/ohio's case:

He's going to buy a posi unit, gears, all the bearings and seals, then pay someone to narrow the housing and then buy a set of axle shafts for it to do the stock 8.2".

For just a couple hundred more he could go to a salvage yard and get a better core axle like the 8.5/8.6" 10-bolt or a 8.8" Ford and do all that same stuff to it and end up with a more bulletproof finished product that doesn't have such a low peak power threshold.
If he searches and chooses well, he could get a posi and decent ratio gears in the donor housing and end up way ahead of the game on cost.....especially since he could start with the common 8.6 10 bolt from a full size 1/2 ton truck/van or 8.8" Ford from an Explorer and cut it down and those are frequently geared with 3.42 or 3.73 gearing.

I consider doing all that work to the 8.2" as money not intelligently spent.
 

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While what you've said is true, I look at it this way in Zman/ohio's case:

He's going to buy a posi unit, gears, all the bearings and seals, then pay someone to narrow the housing and then buy a set of axle shafts for it to do the stock 8.2".

For just a couple hundred more he could go to a salvage yard and get a better core axle like the 8.5/8.6" 10-bolt or a 8.8" Ford and do all that same stuff to it and end up with a more bulletproof finished product that doesn't have such a low peak power threshold.
If he searches and chooses well, he could get a posi and decent ratio gears in the donor housing and end up way ahead of the game on cost.....especially since he could start with the common 8.6 10 bolt from a full size 1/2 ton truck/van or 8.8" Ford from an Explorer and cut it down and those are frequently geared with 3.42 or 3.73 gearing.

I consider doing all that work to the 8.2" as money not intelligently spent.
And you have a right to say that Ericnova. You also know what they say about opinions - and I have one too! So does my 'stand-on-it' son who drag races for a hobby and works as a Heavy Eq. Mechanic but now beginning to eat his own bigger is better opinion for 8.2's in street applications.

There are testaments, myself included, that would say there is nothing weak about an 8.2 if built properly and used in an application under 400-450 Hp without slicks. Bragging rights give the larger rear ends street respect but one street pass with a built 8.2 can shut that noise down.

Since the OP has not stated his end game is drag racing and admittedly green to "rear end mechanics", I'm trying to simplify his build and maybe save him the effort of tracking down a different diff just to toss the 8.2 in the scrap heap for nothing in return but the value of the scrap. Add to that the potential of moving spring perches then pinion angles & where and how to measure/cut the axle tubes. Measure 6 times cut once, comes to mind if he chooses to keep his current incorrectly backspaced wheels.

Again, quality aftermarket 8.2 internal parts are available at reasonable prices and he's future proof - unless he goes full-balls, of course. At that point I'll take my opinion, shut my face and go back home. :geek: (emoji wearing glasses so you won't hit me)
 

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And you have a right to say that Ericnova. You also know what they say about opinions - and I have one too! So does my 'stand-on-it' son who drag races for a hobby and works as a Heavy Eq. Mechanic but now beginning to eat his own bigger is better opinion for 8.2's in street applications.

There are testaments, myself included, that would say there is nothing weak about an 8.2 if built properly and used in an application under 400-450 Hp without slicks. Bragging rights give the larger rear ends street respect but one street pass with a built 8.2 can shut that noise down.

Since the OP has not stated his end game is drag racing and admittedly green to "rear end mechanics", I'm trying to simplify his build and maybe save him the effort of tracking down a different diff just to toss the 8.2 in the scrap heap for nothing in return but the value of the scrap. Add to that the potential of moving spring perches then pinion angles & where and how to measure/cut the axle tubes. Measure 6 times cut once, comes to mind if he chooses to keep his current incorrectly backspaced wheels.

Again, quality aftermarket 8.2 internal parts are available at reasonable prices and he's future proof - unless he goes full-balls, of course. At that point I'll take my opinion, shut my face and go back home. :geek: (emoji wearing glasses so you won't hit me)
No worry's here, I'm not thin skinned.(y)

You have a valid point in all the reasons you outlined. For what the OP Zman plans its likely the right choice.

I'll just add this about my reasoning....what tipped me past the tipping point on keeping the 8.2" was the initial idea Zman had of narrowing the 8.2", to me that says a better plan is replace it, not use it, since you are buying everything internal and paying to narrow the housing if you don't have the ability to do it yourself might as well put all that effort into something stronger.

Not going to narrow it, likely better and cheaper to just beef the stock 8.2", I agree.
I'd feel the same way if the question was a guy with a Fairlane or Falcon about a 8" Ford. Use it, but if your going to the trouble to narrow it, step up to the 9".
 

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No worry's here, I'm not thin skinned.(y)

You have a valid point in all the reasons you outlined. For what the OP Zman plans its likely the right choice.

I'll just add this about my reasoning....what tipped me past the tipping point on keeping the 8.2" was the initial idea Zman had of narrowing the 8.2", to me that says a better plan is replace it, not use it, since you are buying everything internal and paying to narrow the housing if you don't have the ability to do it yourself might as well put all that effort into something stronger.

Not going to narrow it, likely better and cheaper to just beef the stock 8.2", I agree.
I'd feel the same way if the question was a guy with a Fairlane or Falcon about a 8" Ford. Use it, but if your going to the trouble to narrow it, step up to the 9".
Ericnova, I fully agree with you regarding the waste to build & narrow to fit the current wheel choice. It should be done with a more resilient rear end then no matter what else is done to enhance power performance, the rear is pretty much solid. 🤜🤛
 

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In Our 1970 SS 396
I am running a 12 bolt with 255 R60 15's on stock 8" rally steeies with a 7/8 Adco Sway Bar with no rub issues.
 
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