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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please forgive me if this has been discussed already. looking to get a fab 9 rearend. my question is with a heidts 4 link and a mini tub kit what inch width rearend do i need for my 63 SS? Thanks in advance
 

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do you have ur wheels already? what brakes are you going with? i made my own 4 link setup... dse minitubs, notched and reinforced frame... wilwood brakes (11")... narrowed my own rear end (though i do have a moser ford 9" setup, waiting for me to install, if i do that, it is 52.5" axle flange to flange)... my current rear end is approx. 52.875" axle flange to flange (i set my wheels up and measured (since i was narrowing the 8.8 myself)... my wheels are 15x10

if i were you, i would measure for everything etc... im not familiar with a heidts 4 link etc... you have to make sure everything will work with your wheels, and brakes, etc. clearance to frame and other components... maybe someone with your exact setup can help...
 

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1963 Nova SS and 1965 Nova
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Give Heidts a call. Or reference their instructions. You'll need to know a lot more than just what width axle housing to order. Also whoever you choose to get your housing from can weld on the required 4 link mounts etc at the same time for probably next to nothing.
 

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Please forgive me if this has been discussed already. looking to get a fab 9 rearend. my question is with a heidts 4 link and a mini tub kit what inch width rearend do i need for my 63 SS? Thanks in advance
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I just picked up my new 9in ford this week. Not every manufacturer will weld on the brackets and there is definitely a cost if they do it. Best way to do it is put the wheels under the car and the measure the inside width wheel to wheel. You will need to know which brake setup your going to use and which gear you want. Then call a few of the manufacturers and price everything out. Some of the manufacturers (Moser and Curry) would not weld the DSE Quadralink brackets because they didn't have the jig. Not sure about the Heidts jig. I ended up going with Spraker Racing in Mooresville NC. They had the best price and they were able to weld the brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
do you have ur wheels already? what brakes are you going with? i made my own 4 link setup... dse minitubs, notched and reinforced frame... wilwood brakes (11")... narrowed my own rear end (though i do have a moser ford 9" setup, waiting for me to install, if i do that, it is 52.5" axle flange to flange)... my current rear end is approx. 52.875" axle flange to flange (i set my wheels up and measured (since i was narrowing the 8.8 myself)... my wheels are 15x10

if i were you, i would measure for everything etc... im not familiar with a heidts 4 link etc... you have to make sure everything will work with your wheels, and brakes, etc. clearance to frame and other components... maybe someone with your exact setup can help...
I do not have my wheels yet. To be honest was unsure due to not knowing BS for the wheels I need. I have seen alot of post stating to get wheels first then measure. With everything being on backorder or hard to get I didn't want to make a rookie mistake and waste a bunch of money in the process.
 

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Please forgive me if this has been discussed already. looking to get a fab 9 rearend. my question is with a heidts 4 link and a mini tub kit what inch width rearend do i need for my 63 SS? Thanks in advance
As others noted, there's a lot to think about. I just finished installing a new rear suspension system under my 64 Nova SS. My situation may be a little different than yours but the process is the same. My rear frame rails were severely rusted and had to be replaced (whole back end required new sheet metal). I ended up installing 2"x3"x11ga parallel frame rails from AutoWeld to allow room for a mini-tub and wider tires/wheels. I took the advice of others and got my wheels and tires first (while mini-tubbing) then positioned them where I wanted them and measured the distance (ended up using 52 1/4" axle flange to axle flange).
My setup includes the following:
Mini-Tub: 2 1/2" metal inserts fabricated myself
Wheels/Tires: Vision Rally Wheels 18x9.5 (5.25" BS) with 275-35ZR18 tires (10" wheels and 305's would fit with no problem)
Triangulated 4-Link from Church Boys Racing (CBR): I looked at 9 different vendors before choosing CBR and found their price competitive since it was a complete package (included all brackets, cross members, double adjustable coil overs, sway bar, and mounting hardware). Pus the quality is great.
Rear End: Quick Performance Ford 9", 3.7 gear, 31 spline axles with TrueTrac Posi, Wilwood 12" disc brakes

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Tread Vehicle
 

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Thats coming together nicely. are the rear fam rails ithe stock location or did you have to move them in?
Thanks. Yes, I moved them inward 2" on each side which resulted with an inside to inside measurement of 32" between the frame rails. I did this because I didn't like the idea of notching the frame rails to install the mini tubs and I wanted plenty of space for wider wheels and tires. However, I could have gotten by with moving them only 1" on each side for my tire setup which would have saved me some fab work. You wouldn't think 1" makes that much difference but it can.
 

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With the 2" move did this cause any issues with fitment of the stock location fuel tank?
Yes there are fitment issues with the stock fuel tank using the parallel frame rails moved 2" inward because they run straight back and don't flare out at the rear like the stock frame rails. Therefore, they encroach in the space where the stock fuel tank would be. I'll need to either modify/replace the stock tank or install a fuel cell, haven't gotten to that part yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes there are fitment issues with the stock fuel tank using the parallel frame rails moved 2" inward because they run straight back and don't flare out at the rear like the stock frame rails. Therefore, they encroach in the space where the stock fuel tank would be. I'll need to either modify/replace the stock tank or install a fuel cell, haven't gotten to that part yet.
So with the 32" between frame rails how does that effect the mounting points for the 4 link? I am now looking into incorporating this into my build as well.
 

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@rraney
You can build your car in two different ways you have to prioritize one or the other of these two things and go from there.. Either you start with a wheel or wheel and tire size you want to run as the priority or alternatively you build out your chassis and suspension setup with the least amount of compromises and have the wheels you want made to fit that scenario. As the car @gamparano is building illustrates, building the car to fit the wheels and tires he wanted makes for other complications like the possibility of not being able to use the factory fuel tank. Although, I’m not sure if that is really the case in his build.. His parallel frame rails follow the the ups and downs of the factory floor but I’m pretty sure the factory trunk pan will need some messaging to fit in there. These are the kind of trade offs you will have to deal with. They are just decisions but an inch here or there can create a lot of work somewhere else..

I will add that the wheels you choose do make a pretty big visual impact on the the aesthetics of a ride and finding that wheel that makes the statement you are looking for is kind of important.. An 8 inch wheel can fit in the rear wheel house of a 1st gen Nova a 9” wheel will not.. This is the dilemma we have to deal with..
 

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So with the 32" between frame rails how does that effect the mounting points for the 4 link? I am now looking into incorporating this into my build as well.
Nova Thug is correct about setting your priority. I chose wheels and tire size as a priority and built the suspension around that which will impact other things in the rebuilding process. As for the 4 link mounting points, I followed CBR instructions for mounting upper and lower control arm brackets on the rear end but had to modify (shorten) the CBR Upper Cross Member and the Shock Cross Member to fit between the narrowed frame rails. While ordering the CBR Tri 4 Link I discussed this with Chuck who provided new end plates that I welded on the shortened cross members.
 

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Nova Thug is correct about setting your priority. I chose wheels and tire size as a priority and built the suspension around that which will impact other things in the rebuilding process. As for the 4 link mounting points, I followed CBR instructions for mounting upper and lower control arm brackets on the rear end but had to modify (shorten) the CBR Upper Cross Member and the Shock Cross Member to fit between the narrowed frame rails. While ordering the CBR Tri 4 Link I discussed this with Chuck who provided new end plates that I welded on the shortened cross members.
…. I also had to shorten the width of the CBR torque boxes by 1 inch so they would align with the lower control brackets on the rear end. I have a pdf file with photos and describes what I did if you’re interested?
 

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@gamparano I’m building a a full frame for my 63 and have some dilemmas on my hands as well. I have some 9 inch wheels that I would like to run but as I stated above that maker for a lot of work on top of what I’m already into. Also looking at raising the rear suspension pickup points about 2 inches to lower the rear of the car. I might be able to get some different axle mounts that are longer but that opens up another can of worms..

I would definitely like to study your build out PDF. I look at all kinds of builds to get ideas flowing.. Thanks for the offer.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood
Wood Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior
 

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@gamparano I’m building a a full frame for my 63 and have some dilemmas on my hands as well. I have some 9 inch wheels that I would like to run but as I stated above that maker for a lot of work on top of what I’m already into. Also looking at raising the rear suspension pickup points about 2 inches to lower the rear of the car. I might be able to get some different axle mounts that are longer but that opens up another can of worms..

I would definitely like to study your build out PDF. I look at all kinds of builds to get ideas flowing.. Thanks for the offer. View attachment 438523 View attachment 438524
Nova Thug, I’ll post the pdf as soon as I can. I’m in kind of a rural area and lost my internet connection yesterday. Contacted the service provider and they said they’re working on restoring it. I’ve been responding via my cell phone and the pdf is on my laptop.
 

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@gamparano No worries man. I’m in SoCal and my phone is slow sometimes too..

@rraney I came across this article and Jerry Bickel also stresses the importance of wheel and tire selection in order to get the chassis setup and ride height to work as effectively as possible. I realize he is build competitive drag cars but the basic principles still apply..
 

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@gamparano No worries man. I’m in SoCal and my phone is slow sometimes too..

@rraney I came across this article and Jerry Bickel also stresses the importance of wheel and tire selection in order to get the chassis setup and ride height to work as effectively as possible. I realize he is build competitive drag cars but the basic principles still apply..
Wow, just got internet service restored, been out for 5 days. Service tech had to slow my profile speed for the signal to reach my house due to distance to the main box. Something to do with the effect the heat (90+ degrees) has on the copper wiring which decreases the signal strength.
Anyway, attached is the pdf of how I installed the CBR triangulated 4 link system on my 64 Nova with parallel frame rails spaced at 32" inside to inside. It just shows the way I did it, and shouldn't be taken as "THE" way to do it. Photos and notes are just a snap shot of the key steps.
 

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