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1967 Nova
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am thinking about ordering a complete 9" from Quick Performance. I notice no price difference for rear *non slotted drilled) disc or complete drum set up. Same price so my gut said disc because it looks cooler but really just want whats best. I have been told the drum would be much easier to set up. I have a complete front disc kit from Right Stuff going on my 67 along with a CPP front and lower A arm kit and coil overs. I was told the discs in the rear really dont perform much better than drum and the drums would simply be easier to set up with my current front disc kit ie actuator etc. This car is garaged and would be driven on non rainy days and with the weight I doubt there is much performance concerns either way. Thanks for any suggestions hopefully the rear end doesn't take 2 years to get with no one working anymore LOL!
 

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The only things I think to consider is:

Off the shelf pads/rotor availability if disc vs drum. Can you result get parts from Napa/online with each option?

E-Brakes set up? Are there special parts needed to adapt E-Brakes on the disc?

Master cylinder - are you running a dual cylinder setup?
 

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As @SoCalNova cites, replacement brake parts is a key component to the choice, either disk or drum and further, if parts brake, are they prototypical of only Quick or are they factory parts being used in a non-standard application and fab? That causes me to back away from some kits as there's no locating spares if something goes wrong so you are stuck with piles of crap you can't use.

The other thing would be as he mentioned, the proportioning valve as well as the plumbing coupled with the correct vacuum booster and MC.

Just my $0.02, whatever that's worth these days.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As @SoCalNova cites, replacement brake parts is a key component to the choice, either disk or drum and further, if parts brake, are they prototypical of only Quick or are they factory parts being used in a non-standard application and fab? That causes me to back away from some kits as there's no locating spares if something goes wrong so you are stuck with piles of crap you can't use.

The other thing would be as he mentioned, the proportioning valve as well as the plumbing coupled with the correct vacuum booster and MC.

Just my $0.02, whatever that's worth these days.. :)
Thanks your 2 cents is well noted and some things I didnt know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The only things I think to consider is:

Off the shelf pads/rotor availability if disc vs drum. Can you result get parts from Napa/online with each option?

E-Brakes set up? Are there special parts needed to adapt E-Brakes on the disc?

Master cylinder - are you running a dual cylinder setup?
Thanks for the info, I will have to check especially if it's a dual cylinder and what parts they use.
 

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Some of the disc brake kits for the rear use calipers from early 80's caddy's. If I'm not mistaken these NEED a parking brake hooked up and I believe the bleed procedure is very unusual. I've never dealt with it just read it once and stared the info in the back of my brain. I'm also considering a QP rear if the other one doesn't work out
 

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I recently received the Quick Performance 9” but chose the drum brakes for my ‘71. Main reason is I did NOT want to deal with the finicky Caddy e-brake on the discs. I need a good working e-brake to pass inspection and don’t want to be messing with that weird adjustment. Word of advice if you order the billet yoke third member from QP—order the plastic case for them to ship it in. Otherwise they’ll ship it in a cheesy 5 gallon plastic bucket and they’ll seemingly pack it in a box with their eyes closed.
 

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Take in to consideration for overall length wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface- perhaps they do this for you. What diameter rim are you running? I have rear disc brakes with 15" rally wheels. One thing I did not account for was I wanted to balance the rims with weights on the inside of the rim instead of pushing my trim rings out with the exterior weights in the front of the rim- did not work as the weights rubbed on the caliper.
Another issue is if you ever want to pull the pumpkin it is more work to pull the axles with the disc brakes because you have to unbolt the caliper brackets, adapter plates etc.
 

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I got a new QP 9" with the cheapest 11" rotor discs and found the ebrake to be extremely simple to set
unless other people are getting a completely different design I don't see an issue
I would never choose drums over discs and curse like hell whenever I need to change shoes or drums on a drum break system
 

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Doerf that is good to know! Do you know what they are based off of?
I agree with servicing drum brakes, hate them!!!!
 

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Even though I have 6 piston Baer with 14" rotors all the way around on my car....Personally I believe drums perform better in most situations other than wet weather until you start spending upwards if $2-3k or more. If you are into autocross, they don't have knockback like a disk does. Lots of surface area for performance and I've never warped a drum from abuse like a disc. I find them very easy to adjust and set-up once you know what you are doing. In a lot of cases, they are lighter than discs. Most disc swaps have parking brake issues unless it's built in the rotor hat. Sorry for rambling. Just prefer a properly setup drum over disc in most situations.
 

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I would personally do the disc unless it’s the Caddy ones that I would avoid like the plague ! They also have the Ford Explorer kit with internal E-brake for $95 more than the drums and are basically like the older Camaro brakes. I had so many problems the the Caddy ones I had to switch them out, would of used their Explorer kit but I have the old style big bearing ends and they wouldn’t work. The only issue I see with getting replacement parts locally would be the bolt pattern on the rotors but I wouldn’t have an issue redrilling them.

Doerf, do yours have the internal E-brake ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got a new QP 9" with the cheapest 11" rotor discs and found the ebrake to be extremely simple to set
unless other people are getting a completely different design I don't see an issue
I would never choose drums over discs and curse like hell whenever I need to change shoes or drums on a drum break system
man thanks for your info, really helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dang, so glad I am on this site now asking question it's invaluable, thanks to everyone for your input and information I really appreciate it. Many more to come as I build this 67 nova but again everyone on these forums are awesome!
 

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So I am thinking about ordering a complete 9" from Quick Performance. I notice no price difference for rear *non slotted drilled) disc or complete drum set up. Same price so my gut said disc because it looks cooler but really just want whats best. I have been told the drum would be much easier to set up. I have a complete front disc kit from Right Stuff going on my 67 along with a CPP front and lower A arm kit and coil overs. I was told the discs in the rear really dont perform much better than drum and the drums would simply be easier to set up with my current front disc kit ie actuator etc. This car is garaged and would be driven on non rainy days and with the weight I doubt there is much performance concerns either way. Thanks for any suggestions hopefully the rear end doesn't take 2 years to get with no one working anymore LOL!
I'm running a QP 9" in my 66. Make sure you order a e-brake assembly with it, hooks up great with the stock e-brake set up. I'm very happy with their product.
 

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That is good to know, does anyone know where the QP disc brakes derived from? Assuming they are not unique to them
 
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