Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a 63 Chevy 11 cheap. I did swap out the 6cyl with a 327. I converted the front from 4 lug to 5 lug. I pulled the rear and of course I have a rare 3790614 rear. I can't get the housing off to expose the gears and remove the axles. What is the trick? Please don't laugh at me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Picked up a 63 Chevy 11 cheap. I did swap out the 6cyl with a 327. I converted the front from 4 lug to 5 lug. I pulled the rear and of course I have a rare 3790614 rear. I can't get the housing off to expose the gears and remove the axles. What is the trick? Please don't laugh at me!
Just the rear cover bolts. Maybe a light tap to loosen the cover
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The cover is loose, but it seems like it is all connected. Does the yoke spline come out with the cover? That's where it seems the problem lies.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,844 Posts
If it's the original differential, it's the 'pumpkin' type, the kind where the ring and pinion are set up in a casting (the pumpkin) and that is installed in a hole in what would be the front of the differential. 8.2" rear end, stock in '62 and '63. I'm assuming that's the rear end in your vehicle now, but it could be anything without pictures, but your part number is for a '62-'63 type.

Pulling the 'pumpkin' requires pulling Both axles first. Remove the wheels and drums, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the wheel bearing and axle to the housing. There is no C-clip. Just remove the 4 bolts, and pull the axle straight out. Once you do that both sides, then the pumpkin can be removed as a unit after you remove the nuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Got one out. Having trouble with drivers side. Getting ready to use heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Glad you got it apart. What are you trying to do with the 63 rear that you are taking apart? The pinion yoke wouldn't have needed to come off to get the center section out of the housing. Are you going to re-drill your axles to 5 lug?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yes. Looking to get drilled to 5 lug. Then find drums to fit. Replace bearings and seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
Better solution and probably cheaper option is a 64-67 10 bolt will have all of the 5 lug stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
I don't know of any 5 lug, Chevy pattern drums in a 9 X 1.750 brake size. Later 5 lug drums are for 9.5 X 2 brakes. Just have your drums re-drilled when they do the axles.
As far as the 63 rear end and axle strength, the non-posi spider gears are the weak link. If you can find a posi center section (55 - 64 chevy), they are stronger. Years ago, I ran mid 12s for a whole season with a 63 4lug posi behind a 327 4speed with 7" cheater slicks. I worried about those little axles but never broke one. At the end of the season, the ring and pinion broke on the street on the way home from the track.
If you're running an automatic, you'll be fine.
By the way, I have a 3.36 posi center section for $150. If you're interested, shoot me a PM, I'm in PA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
You must have been reading my mind I was thinking the same thing today
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
New to this forum. I recently purchased my 1st 63 Chevy ii. I have a complete 5 lug front suspension with brakes and drums for sale. Make an offer. I am in the process of scraping bed liner off the firewall and radiator support for new paint. I have purchased a new mustang II front suspension kit for mine. My son is doing the same with his 66 Chevy II.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have a Chevy 12 bolt under my 63. I would like to add disc brakes to the rear as well. Does anyone know or has done brakes from say a Tahoe or similar vehicle. I would prefer staying away from after market parts do to future repairs if needed.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top