[Kev1]

I know some wont like hearing about it because most of what I've seen looks horrid. How good can it look? Some that I've seen were so well done you could not tell untill you were 2 to 3 feet from the vehicle. If you previously primer before you take it to a paint shop will they strip it and use there own primer? Just looking for inexpensive rust prevention and to not have a car look like a beater. I will only be able to afford so much.

 

[72GreenRally]

IF you use a spraycan primer, you better hope a body shop will strip it off before they do anything. It may not hurt anything, but it can also cause BIG problems.

Unless you get a product that is specifically for rust prevention, what you will get will just prevent you from seeing the metal rust.

Are you thinking about doing the whole car in spraycans? If so, ou might want to think about getting one of those plastic "spraycan triggers". I have seen them at the chain parts stores up here in North Cali.

Randy (the trigger will help with a better looking job too)

 

[Kev1]

rust prevention

Then I guess I should look for a product for rust prevention first. I have seen even after grinding, wooling and polishing rust reappear on some metals when it looked absolutely clean. I guess it can even restart from microscopic pitting but is'nt that only if air can get to it? Can rust start under a sealed finish and start to destroy the metal from below the coat? The areas I would most worry about would be the pillars and the airwash areas. Speaking of the pillars, how can you inspect the inside for possible rust damage?

Oh, and thanks for replying

 

[bblake53]

If you do decide at least use a 2k primer and only spray over a properly prepare surface, no shineys

 

[Seattle_Mike]

Without knowing exactly what the surface condition is and what materials are on it, most shops won't touch it because too many times problems arise when spraying, or down the road when things start going downhill fast. Usually they want to spray the primer and block it so they know what they have. If you have bare metal, shoot some DZ3 & then some Dupont 2K or other high build primer that can be sanded later. You are right, rust can begin almost immediately on bare metal even though you don't see it.

 

[72GreenRally]

Kev, the product the other guys are talking about require a spraygun. If you have a spraygun and a compressor, that is the better way to go. As far as spraycan primers go, they are kind of like laying a cotton towel on your car. You can't see through it, but moisture can get through it without a problem. If you are trying to prevent rust only, until you can afford to get the car to a body shop, you would be better off using a gray spraypaint.

To answer some of your questions, yes, rust can re-start under a sealed finish. There it can do lots of damage before it starts to cause noticable bubbles in the paint. Once you start to notice the bubbles, the metal underneath will look like it has rusted in layers. Short of cutting them open, I don't know how you would inspect the inside of the pillars.

Randy (rust never rests)

 

[70oneNova]

When I got my car, the entire roof was primered gray, and the entire driver side rear fender was gray along with other misc spots over the entire car. I decided to grind out the pins that previously held the side mouldings on, so I needed a cheap way to make my car presentable until I can afford a "real" paint job.

I spent probably 8-10 hours max and probably about $100 on supplies (wet/dry sandpaper, sanding blocks, primer, bondo, etc). I think it looks pretty good but it definatly isnt perfect.

I added the black shading around the edging in those photographs but other than that no photo editing was done to the actual car.

 

[Kev1]

Looks pretty good

Is that another good example of a good rattlecan job or did you use a sprayer?

 

[70oneNova]

rattlecan on the roof, mid line along the entire length of the car, and the entire drivers rear quarter. The car was white/primer when I got it, I just found a rattlecan that was almost identicle to the paint that was already on my car.

 

[1971novaSS]

Problem with going rattle can is that it only lasts so long, and when u do have money to get "actual" paint, u have to do all that sanding all over again. Ive cone the rattle can cover up and lets just say that it now needs to be re sanded and sprayed again, only after a year of weathering. There is rust showing through the spray primer....

The guys are right it just keeps the rust from showing, a short fix, well not really a fix, but a short way to put painting off.

Rennskii (Go with a good spray on primer, wont be to spendy) JMO

 

[Nova Research]

If you plan to drive the car this will not work. But if you are working on the car in the garage and just want it be rust free until you can get it to a shop, try Eastwoods Metal Wash.

You mix it with water (I know sounds strange) and spray it on. Then you towel it off. Then you spray a second coat towel it off and blow it dry with air.

I used it on the firewall and underside while I was stripping it. Had bare steel for over 18 months with no rust (can says up to 3 weeks of flash rust prevention). It did not effect the primer or paint when I did get to paint it. I use it on anything the gets stripped and save the bare parts up to batch paint.

It is also billed as a degreaser for pre paint. I have a 7 oz can that is still 1/2 full.