There are no known off the shelf mounts for this rack and application. You will have to fabricate your own cross member, mounts steering arms etc. etc.
Is the rack the correct width?
Is the rack the correct width?
Rack & Pinion Mount
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
There are no known off the shelf mounts for this rack and application. You will have to fabricate your own cross member, mounts steering arms etc. etc.
Is the rack the correct width?
It's a bit wide but, I will either cut the ends and re-thread them or section and weld. I've seen these racks used on many projects and think I can make it work. Also have the complete steering column and coupling.
Thanks!
Have you looked into a kit already. One like CBR 's. you only need the rack and lower arm kit. The benefits alone from the arms are amazing. Plus all the hard work is done. And you'll be driving and enjoying your nova sooner. Or unless you like trying something new and enjoy fabricating. Then I wish you good luck.
Charley
Charley
Cost is prohibitive for me and I have nothing in the (above) rack. I'll come up with something and will post when it's done.Have you looked into a kit already. One like CBR 's. you only need the rack and lower arm kit. The benefits alone from the arms are amazing. Plus all the hard work is done. And you'll be driving and enjoying your nova sooner. Or unless you like trying something new and enjoy fabricating. Then I wish you good luck.
Charley
Thanks!
It's a bit wide but, I will either cut the ends and re-thread them or section and weld. I've seen these racks used on many projects and think I can make it work. Also have the complete steering column and coupling.
Thanks!
if the rack is too wide, for proper geometry it may have to be narrowed in the middle.
I think from preliminary measurements that I have app. 2" that will need attention. Not sure yet but, I may be able to take up that distance in the spindle tie-rod arms.if the rack is too wide, for proper geometry it may have to be narrowed in the middle.
Measure the center-to-center distance between the mounting bolts (pivot points) for the lower control arms on each side of the car, where the control arms mount to the frame. In order to minimize bump steer, you need to cut the rack such that the distance between the pivot points of the inner tie rod ends is as close as possible to the measured distance between the control arm mounts.
Measure the center-to-center distance between the mounting bolts (pivot points) for the lower control arms on each side of the car, where the control arms mount to the frame. In order to minimize bump steer, you need to cut the rack such that the distance between the pivot points of the inner tie rod ends is as close as possible to the measured distance between the control arm mounts.
"OK" thanks for the info.!
The sorta important thing to keep in mind is a rear steer rack conversion as you are attempting is WAY more likely to bump steer in a not so good way.
On a slightly more common front steer conversion that mate an existing rack to an existing car, if the tie rod is too short , it will make the wheel toe in from a centered or netural position.. not good, but the only result may be some tire scrubbing or some steering wheel twitch.
On a rear steer rack attempt,however, if the tie rod is too short, the wheel will toe out, causing the car to swerve out to the toe out side.
the only way to minimize this condition is to limit the travel or add extra toe in to the alignment..neither is a good option for a street car.
A guideline one could follow is that the rack pivots should duplicate the original tie rod pivots, center to center , & up & down. this would get the geometry at least stock... if you want to experiment to actually improve things you would have to start cycling the suspension thru its travel to test it.
On a slightly more common front steer conversion that mate an existing rack to an existing car, if the tie rod is too short , it will make the wheel toe in from a centered or netural position.. not good, but the only result may be some tire scrubbing or some steering wheel twitch.
On a rear steer rack attempt,however, if the tie rod is too short, the wheel will toe out, causing the car to swerve out to the toe out side.
the only way to minimize this condition is to limit the travel or add extra toe in to the alignment..neither is a good option for a street car.
A guideline one could follow is that the rack pivots should duplicate the original tie rod pivots, center to center , & up & down. this would get the geometry at least stock... if you want to experiment to actually improve things you would have to start cycling the suspension thru its travel to test it.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Chevy Nova Forum
A forum community dedicated to all Chevy Nova, Chevy II, Acadian owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
