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1963 Chevy II 2 door hardtop
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car didn't pass inspection due to steering arm hitting headers, and tie rods hitting the oil pan (new Weiand Chevy II pan!). The box isn't in the best shape either. Perhaps its time to convert to rack and pinion instead of spending the money on another pan, good headers and replacing the box/column. Is there any other acceptable rack and pinion kits I should consider other than the CBR kit? The kit for manual steering will cost the best part of $5k by the time I pay for exchange, duty and shipping. It seems that Unisteer and Flaming River have lots of issues.
 

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I put flaming river in my 63 along with CPP mini sub frame
I would not upgrade suspension without also steering
the stock steering rods are pretty small and a ton of joints

huge improvement over worn stock suspension/steering
 

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1963 Chevy II 2 door hardtop
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the Flaming River rack and pinion was ok? I'm not planning to change the suspension.
 

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1965
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I have the early- very early- CPP/Church Boys set up. It works excellent. Perhaps you can find one that somebody is looking to sell to upgrade to the full Church Boys system.
 

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Do you have any pictures of this setup you could post..?
I have the early- very early- CPP/Church Boys set up. It works excellent. Perhaps you can find one that somebody is looking to sell to upgrade to the full Church Boys system.
 

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I have a Unisteer on mine. It's the only thing I don't really like about the Smith Racecraft front clip kit that I bought. The rack and pinion is fine, but it only has 4" of travel and given the steering arm length on my spindles, it makes for a crazy big turning radius. I probably have half the turning radius that I used to.

Chris.
 

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1963 Chevy II 2 door hardtop
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I see a complete basic TCI IFS kit is only $4k USD more which makes more sense. I think I'm either all in or out altogether.
 

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So the Flaming River rack and pinion was ok? I'm not planning to change the suspension.
flaming river R&P works great, absolutely no issues
they do make two versions
one bolts to where steering box and idler arm were bolted to
the other option bolts in place of the cross member, the one right behind the strut rod mounting brackets

On another note, you asked about consensus...consensus, are you new to the internet
you will not get a consensus on anything, you just need to read the replies and try to determine what advise to follow
 

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You might look up a Bills2 rack and pinion steering conversion. It’s more of a DIY type deal that gives you plans to build from..

I was playing around with a rack conversion for a stock clip last year. I put Chevelle steering arms on Nova spindles and went to a salvage yard looking for the narrowest racks I could find. I came out with a rack from a 2000 Ranger. It’s basically the same width as the racks TCI uses on their front clips but the mounts are positioned differently and the input coupler is different not a splined shaft..
 

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1963 Chevy II 2 door hardtop
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It seems as if the only unit with all around good feedback is the CBR unit. Many seem to complain about turning radius. Everything else looks to be MIC anyway. I wouldn't mind putting in the CBR R&P, lower control arms and zero offset brakes which would make sense if I knew I was going to keep the car. I might just go with the brakes for now as it deals with a caliper and clearance issue and drive it and see how it handles (I'm not expecting a lot). Right now I have a plan to get the car past inspection so I will mull the rack and pinion upgrade over.
 

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The old CBR racks ran into this. The angle of the tie rods are not level
Not an issue if Tie Rod and lower travel the same arc and are same angle. We tested a ton of this stuff when we build stock cars. Most of the testing was with a bump steer gauge
 

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My car didn't pass inspection due to steering arm hitting headers, and tie rods hitting the oil pan (new Weiand Chevy II pan!). The box isn't in the best shape either. Perhaps its time to convert to rack and pinion instead of spending the money on another pan, good headers and replacing the box/column. Is there any other acceptable rack and pinion kits I should consider other than the CBR kit? The kit for manual steering will cost the best part of $5k by the time I pay for exchange, duty and shipping. It seems that Unisteer and Flaming River have lots of issues.
A non Nova block will cause the pan to get too close the steering linkage and in my case the starter and oil filter too close to the headers.
Aassuming you went rear sump too, I spaced the idler arm bracket (4 bolts) around an inch from the frame (reset the toe in) which let the link and tierod ends clear the already somewhat hammered pan. Made sure motor mounts are in good shape. 67 Nova SS, 66 327 non nova block, rear sump notched pan, manual steering.
 

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1963 Chevy II 2 door hardtop
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm shimming the motor mounts up which helps. Also, the stops (just sheet metal) seem worn so I might weld repair those.
 

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Hello fellas, the problem I see or deal with most of the time is we only seem to look at the price….yes the cost makes a difference but, look at everything you get or better yet DON’T get. My manual rack kit without a column is 2535.00….how many kits provide you with tubular lower control arms, 1-1/8” sway bar, rack cross member (1-5/8” DOM tubing), steering arms, tie rod ends, all the steering hardware borgeson joints, DD steering shaft and USA made grade 8 hardware.

 
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