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Discussion Starter #1
I'm adding a 68-74 console with 4 gauge pod to my 62. I'm using Autometer Phantom 2 1/16 short sweep electrical oil pressure, water temp, voltmeter and a clock. The first 3 all require a 12v switched input. Can I daisy chain those gauges together and feed just one an 18 gauge wire? 18 gauge is what the instructions call for for power and ground. Seems light to me and maybe more so if daisy chained. I also would like to wire all grounds (gauge and lights) together and use one 18 gauge wire out to the engine block. I plan to get power from the fuse panel male spade connector marked ACC and CLK.

Thoughts?
 

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The gauges draw a very small amount of current. A single 18 gauge wire to power all 3 will be plenty adequate.


The ACC and CLK taps on the fuse panel should work just fine as well. Although, power on the ACC circuit usually switches off when you're cranking the engine. So if your fuse box has an IGN tap you might want to consider using that instead. That circuit should stay powered in both the start & run positions. Probably not a big deal either way, but with them hooked to the ACC terminal, you wouldn't get a reading on the gauges while cranking the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wondered what the difference was between IGN and ACC. I don't see IGN but then I'm having trouble reading down there (old age and old bones). Anybody know if a 62 has an IGN? I'm not concerned about ACC not having current while cranking anyway.

Thanks that helps a lot.
 

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You're welcome. Yeah, even when you can get down there to see them, the labels on the fuse boxes are sometimes faded / worn and hard to read anyway.

Chances are, the fuse box in your 62 is similar to the one in Dad's 63 Impala. I hooked up a set of Autometer gauges in his car and I remember that fuse box having an IGN tap, a BAT tap (live all the time), and an LPS tap (connected to the dash light circuit and can be used to power the lights in the added gauges so they brighten/dim along with the others). I don't remember that fuse box even having an ACC tap though. So if yours is the same/similar, you might have to go with the IGN tap anyway.
 

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I'm adding a 68-74 console with 4 gauge pod to my 62. I'm using Autometer Phantom 2 1/16 short sweep electrical oil pressure, water temp, voltmeter and a clock. The first 3 all require a 12v switched input. Can I daisy chain those gauges together and feed just one an 18 gauge wire? 18 gauge is what the instructions call for for power and ground. Seems light to me and maybe more so if daisy chained. I also would like to wire all grounds (gauge and lights) together and use one 18 gauge wire out to the engine block. I plan to get power from the fuse panel male spade connector marked ACC and CLK.

Thoughts?
I hook my voltmeters to 12v constant power, the cig lighter in most cases. I can see at a glance the battery condition without turning on the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting. And I thought the purpose of a voltmeter was to tell the output of the alternator. So I guess there's not danger with a voltmeter like I've heard there is with an ammeter? I have the original style horizontal gauges in my 68 Camaro console and I've never hooked up the ammeter because of that warning. And I can't believe the cost of those horizontal voltmeters!
 

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Interesting. And I thought the purpose of a voltmeter was to tell the output of the alternator. So I guess there's not danger with a voltmeter like I've heard there is with an ammeter? I have the original style horizontal gauges in my 68 Camaro console and I've never hooked up the ammeter because of that warning. And I can't believe the cost of those horizontal voltmeters!
A voltmeter measures the voltage at the point of contact. In most cars it will be very close to the alternator voltage, minus whatever drop there is in the wiring. When the key is off it reads about 12.5v, and about 14v when the engine is running. I use the cig lighter wire because it's a heavy wire and will measure very close to the alternator voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got another couple of questions on gauges:

What temperature does it take to turn on the TEMP idiot light, how low oil pressure to turn on idiot OIL light and how low volts(amps?) to turn on idiot charging light?

Is it possible to still have the idiot lights hooked up with the new gauges? I was thinking of using a Tee connection to keep both TEMP and OIL sensor switches attached??
 

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The temperature light will come on well above the operating temperature - maybe 250° or so.
The oil light will come on at a fairly low oil pressure, less than 10# in my experience.
The gen light will come on when the field of the alternator falls below the battery voltage, indicating a non-functioning alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was able to add a brass Tee to the oil sensor outlet in the block so that both idiot light and gauge work. I was able to plumb up a Tee to attach both temp sensors but it leaked a little and looked so hokey I just put the electrical sensor in.

On a related note I think I have found why my gas gauge never seems to work right. The power line going into the gauge is cut almost through. It is a 20 gauge stranded wire and only a couple of really small wires were connected. I'm going to work on jumping from another wire today and see if that helps.
 

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I was able to add a brass Tee to the oil sensor outlet in the block so that both idiot light and gauge work. I was able to plumb up a Tee to attach both temp sensors but it leaked a little and looked so hokey I just put the electrical sensor in.

On a related note I think I have found why my gas gauge never seems to work right. The power line going into the gauge is cut almost through. It is a 20 gauge stranded wire and only a couple of really small wires were connected. I'm going to work on jumping from another wire today and see if that helps.
I've done the "T" fitting on engines before but just for oil and maybe on the water temp senders, use two different spots without a "T" fitting ?.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I hook my voltmeters to 12v constant power, the cig lighter in most cases. I can see at a glance the battery condition without turning on the ignition.
What gauge wire do you run from cig lighter to voltmeter? I guess there is no problem with running the battery down? Also do you see a problem with jumping that power lead over to the clock?
 
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