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Discussion Starter #1
Having problems getting my right rear brake light working. I was reading this post - yellow & green are the turn signals, brown are running... you'll use the brown wire for the license plate lamp. splicing/junction the wires from left tail to plate lamp to right tail lamp will be needed...

the sockets with the two wires.. the pigtails operate the dual filament... one for running, one for stop/turn. the socket is self grounding. a common error is to connect the stop wire in place of the running lights... prior to making permanent connection make sure they're connected properly... The running lights work on my 66, I will get a brake light on my drivers side but nothing on my passengers side. The bulb is good. Some where in the wiring. So reading above maybe I should try running a junction 3 way off the brown wire 3 way from driver, passenger, license for running lights and see if they work. Maybe I have the stop light wire running the running light now. Anyone have any suggestions on this? I appreciate the help and pics if anyone has them. Thank you. By the way this is the stock wiring on my 66 Chevy 11
 

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If your turn signals work like they should and you still have only one working brake light, odds are your turn signal switch is bad. There is a contact in the turn signal switch for each brake light and if that contact is bad the turn signals will still work but the brake light will not. That contact cuts off power to the brake light when your turn signal is actviated for that side, otherwise the light would not flash if the brakes were applied.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Universal Blinker Switch!

Anyone used a universal blinker switch, the kind you mount to your column? Just wanted to see what experience if anybody has had with one of these. How do they perform with the brake lights etc... Appreciate any feedback or suggestions!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had a similar problem in my 73. Turned out to be the wiring in the light socket. You might want to check the metal tabs in the socket.
Yes Thank you for your input. I just bought 2 new sockets for my 66. See I get left rear stop,blinker and tail light. I just get tail light on the passenger rear. I jumped the wires over from the left to the right and they worked. So what I did is just go in and purchase a new turn signal switch from am-autoparts. Hopefully this will do the trick. Someone commented on this post saying this could be it and I believe they are right. I appreciate the help from everyone and I will keep everyone updated on this after I get the new turn signal switch and install it. Thanks again.
 

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The new switch should take care of the problem. Spend a little time fishing out the old wire loom and putting in the new one. There is no need to cut any wires to get it in. You may have to loosen the clamp on the steering column and let it drop down some to get the new wires threaded through but they will go without any cutting. Make sure you get the steering column back in the exact same place (not telescoped in or out)when you renistall the clamp so the cancelling cam will contact the switch correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes thank you wskaiser. I will mark the column before I loosen the U clamp on it so I can position it back were it was when finished. Ya I do not want to cut wires if I have trouble I will pull the leads out of the connector by releasing them and then re insert them. But hopefully I should not have to do this. Appreciate the help. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The new switch should take care of the problem. Spend a little time fishing out the old wire loom and putting in the new one. There is no need to cut any wires to get it in. You may have to loosen the clamp on the steering column and let it drop down some to get the new wires threaded through but they will go without any cutting. Make sure you get the steering column back in the exact same place (not telescoped in or out)when you renistall the clamp so the cancelling cam will contact the switch correctly.
Turns out I was sent the wrong switch. I was sent a Stamper BPC part #387115 and it will not even fit in the column housing. So I have the correct part coming part# 911051 or D6203 (Stamped "GUIDE") I will post a picture of the D6203 (Stamped "GUIDE") first and then the 387115
Anyhow if you have an original 66 Chevy column the 387115 will not fit. This 387115 switch is all the auto parts stores like Napa, Advance etc carry. They cannot even find the D6203 "911051" Stamped Guide switch in there database. Hope this helps someone on turn signal switches and I will comment after receiving the correct part after install.
 

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Another thing to check is that the switch housing is flat on the bottom. It is alot of work to pull it but it will make a difference. If the switch works correctly with the screws loosely installed but changes when you draw it down tight, the switch housing is tweaking the switch. Rodnockn6 turned me on to this saved some hair.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Turns out I was sent the wrong switch. I was sent a Stamper BPC part #387115 and it will not even fit in the column housing. So I have the correct part coming part# 911051 or D6203 (Stamped "GUIDE") I will post a picture of the D6203 (Stamped "GUIDE") first and then the 387115
Anyhow if you have an original 66 Chevy column the 387115 will not fit. This 387115 switch is all the auto parts stores like Napa, Advance etc carry. They cannot even find the D6203 "911051" Stamped Guide switch in there database. Hope this helps someone on turn signal switches and I will comment after receiving the correct part after install.
Got the New Turn Signal Switch 911051 or D6203 today. I installed without having to cut any wires or pull any wires from the connector. I am happy to say that I have all turn signals, running lights and brake lights now. Mission accomplished. I believe I will have to get a higher amp alternator because at low idol the blinkers work slower and at a higher rpm they work quicker. Telling me the alternator needs to be higher amp. Anyhow great.
 
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