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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

I have a big shot Kit sitting in my garage calling my name!

362ci SBC forged bottom end, scat crank.
8.5 CR
Edelbrock 77629 race heads
Edelbrock Super Vic Jr intake
Comp cams 12-908-09 drag cam
Mighty Demon 850 Double Pumper
MSD locked out Distributor
MSD digital retard box
Full Aeromotive fuel system

Now my question is...With the Big Shot system, If I were to spray 185 out of the hole and then spray 185 up top what should I look for or change to be safe?

Let me know if you see anything alarming or in need of change
 

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Hey all,

I have a big shot Kit sitting in my garage calling my name!

362ci SBC forged bottom end, scat crank.
8.5 CR
Edelbrock 77629 race heads
Edelbrock Super Vic Jr intake
Comp cams 12-809-09 drag cam
Mighty Demon 850 Double Pumper
MSD locked out Distributor
MSD digital retard box
Full Aeromotive fuel system

Now my question is...With the Big Shot system, If I were to spray 185 out of the hole and then spray 185 up top what should I look for or change to be safe?

Let me know if you see anything alarming or in need of change

I think you need to tell us what you think the tune is for a 185 shot because if it is as fat as you posted in your other post you WILL hurt the motor. Figure out the first stage tune first before you add another and burn up your motor!!! Do some rasearch on yellowbullet or ask lots of questions, fat nitrous tunes will hurt a motor before a lean tune will!:yes:
 

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You must have a timing retard to work with the nos hit
I only run a 200 shot, but I don't take ANY timing away--36° with or without the bottle on the old 14.5-1 compression iron head combo, or my current 11.9-1 combo. And my cams are all 106-108° lobes because I don't build for nitrous, I just use it occasionally.
I did pull 6° timing on the Junk 350, but only because it has some cheap cast pistons.
 

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I only run a 200 shot, but I don't take ANY timing away--36° with or without the bottle on the old 14.5-1 compression iron head combo, or my current 11.9-1 combo. And my cams are all 106-108° lobes because I don't build for nitrous, I just use it occasionally.
I did pull 6° timing on the Junk 350, but only because it has some cheap cast pistons.
No timing taken away at 36*, not smart at all. I bet you run pretty damn fat tunes as well? Lots of timing to burn too much fuel, too much safe power left in crappy tune ups like that!:yes:
 

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not smart at all. I bet you run pretty damn fat tunes as well?
Unit is rated at 5 PSI, I usually ran 5-1/2 -5-3/4. Countless bottles run thru the system--never a hiccup or even a nipped plug. With less timing it just feels lazy; I hit it from an idle off the line and it just scoots right along.
The crappy tuneup was good for 7 tenths in the 1/8 mile without ever hurting ANYTHING.
The only nitrous pass with my current combo was made at much higher fuel pressure (only 1 regulator on car now) and it was very soft and lazy (6.11/112.89 pass) Only about 3-4 tenths off usual N/A numbers.
 

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I would not try to spray your car with out taking timing out you are asking for problems. And I would not add the first and secound stages together you will have a hard time getting the fuel pressure right.
 

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Baby steps my friend, Those guys that are out there running 2stages with no issues do so with tons of money invested, or years of experience or both...

Start with one stage and learn how it all works and what you and your engine likes.

You could just pull all the timing before the run, but a retard box would be best for the dual stage.
 

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Unit is rated at 5 PSI, I usually ran 5-1/2 -5-3/4. Countless bottles run thru the system--never a hiccup or even a nipped plug. With less timing it just feels lazy; I hit it from an idle off the line and it just scoots right along.
The crappy tuneup was good for 7 tenths in the 1/8 mile without ever hurting ANYTHING.
The only nitrous pass with my current combo was made at much higher fuel pressure (only 1 regulator on car now) and it was very soft and lazy (6.11/112.89 pass) Only about 3-4 tenths off usual N/A numbers.
The reason it feels lazy with less timing is because the tune up is too fat, you need the timing to burn the extra fuel which is not the safest thing. What do your plugs look like? My car goes 12.21 @ 110 on motor, with a 73N & 61F jet flowing 5.5psi it goes 10.59 @ 125 pulling 14* of timing from 38 total. My plugs still have a slight bit of color but is real damn close. Nitrous tuning has come a long way in the last 10 years!!!:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I think you need to tell us what you think the tune is for a 185 shot because if it is as fat as you posted in your other post you WILL hurt the motor. Figure out the first stage tune first before you add another and burn up your motor!!! Do some rasearch on yellowbullet or ask lots of questions, fat nitrous tunes will hurt a motor before a lean tune will!:yes:[/QUOTE

I have completely changed the nitrous kit in the car to a 2 stage big shot and while changing all the componets I discovered why my car did weird things on the bigger shots! After replacing the NOS plate I realized it had a powershot plate and also the feed line was flatened pretty bad where it went between the car and subframe connectors...this system was installed by the previous owner. I have now competely rewired the car and plumbed everything new. I have noticed the car runs better and should see a whole bunch of gains on the dyno Monday Morning!

Fasteddie, I have the regulator set to flow at 5.4 psi using the (210 shot) .076 fuel jet and the .082 for nitrous. I will tune it down or up depending on the happy spot on the dyno. What do you run for fuel psi flowing and timing? Also I'm going to pull 9 degrees, I run 39 degress total timing.
 

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I think you need to tell us what you think the tune is for a 185 shot because if it is as fat as you posted in your other post you WILL hurt the motor. Figure out the first stage tune first before you add another and burn up your motor!!! Do some rasearch on yellowbullet or ask lots of questions, fat nitrous tunes will hurt a motor before a lean tune will!:yes:[/QUOTE

I have completely changed the nitrous kit in the car to a 2 stage big shot and while changing all the componets I discovered why my car did weird things on the bigger shots! After replacing the NOS plate I realized it had a powershot plate and also the feed line was flatened pretty bad where it went between the car and subframe connectors...this system was installed by the previous owner. I have now competely rewired the car and plumbed everything new. I have noticed the car runs better and should see a whole bunch of gains on the dyno Monday Morning!

Fasteddie, I have the regulator set to flow at 5.4 psi using the (210 shot) .076 fuel jet and the .082 for nitrous. I will tune it down or up depending on the happy spot on the dyno. What do you run for fuel psi flowing and timing? Also I'm going to pull 9 degrees, I run 39 degress total timing.
Sounds like there were a few issues there, good looking out! I just put the 82 pill in on my car but have not made a pull yet. I have 82n and 67f with the flowing fuel pressure at 5.5psi. I run my nitrous with 24-26* timing and my motor around 39*. I would suggest a colder plug if you are not already running one. I run NGK -9 in my car. Read the plugs and do not get greedy with timing, it is the enemy on a nitrous motor!:yes: If the plug looks a little fat go down with the fuel pill, do not up the timing to clean it up! Good luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like there were a few issues there, good looking out! I just put the 82 pill in on my car but have not made a pull yet. I have 82n and 67f with the flowing fuel pressure at 5.5psi. I run my nitrous with 24-26* timing and my motor around 39*. I would suggest a colder plug if you are not already running one. I run NGK -9 in my car. Read the plugs and do not get greedy with timing, it is the enemy on a nitrous motor!:yes: If the plug looks a little fat go down with the fuel pill, do not up the timing to clean it up! Good luck!!!
I hear ya! I do have -9 plugs in the car now. I also pull 9 degress of timing to run 30 degress total...Please remember I have a 8.5cr motor with forged everything. I also run a mixture of C12 and 94 (Chevron) pump gas, so I have a bit of a cushion when it comes to octane! I will be doing some dyno tunning and setting up as well as I have 6 sets of new plugs with me to read per run as I go up in jetting. I thank you all for the info.

P.S. I have had 6 cars with spray in the past but nothing quite as fast as this car without spray.
 

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I think you need to tell us what you think the tune is for a 185 shot because if it is as fat as you posted in your other post you WILL hurt the motor. Figure out the first stage tune first before you add another and burn up your motor!!! Do some rasearch on yellowbullet or ask lots of questions, fat nitrous tunes will hurt a motor before a lean tune will!:yes:[/QUOTE

I have completely changed the nitrous kit in the car to a 2 stage big shot and while changing all the componets I discovered why my car did weird things on the bigger shots! After replacing the NOS plate I realized it had a powershot plate and also the feed line was flatened pretty bad where it went between the car and subframe connectors...this system was installed by the previous owner. I have now competely rewired the car and plumbed everything new. I have noticed the car runs better and should see a whole bunch of gains on the dyno Monday Morning!

Fasteddie, I have the regulator set to flow at 5.4 psi using the (210 shot) .076 fuel jet and the .082 for nitrous. I will tune it down or up depending on the happy spot on the dyno. What do you run for fuel psi flowing and timing? Also I'm going to pull 9 degrees, I run 39 degress total timing.
Post a pic of the plate please....if it's not a crossbar or stacked bar design, it won't work like you think. If you have the 2 stage big shot plate with a Y fitting and 2 sets of jets going into a single spray bar, is not meant to work as 2 stacked stages, the spraybar itself simply can't pass enough nitrous. It's meant to leave on a small kit, turn that off while a bigger one turns on....which is gay. To stack stages you need another set of bars...so either another plate stacked ontop, or a crossbar plate.

Joe
 

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The reason it feels lazy with less timing is because the tune up is too fat
My plugs (NGK -10's) come out looking like they haven't been run yet.

Nitrous tuning may have changed a lot in 10 years, but mine is still a system from 1998, it works fine and has never hurt anything, which is more than I can say for a lot of the stuff I see each week at the track.

This video is a lazy one from having 7 1/2 psi with a 78 fuel/81 N20 tune, There was only the one regulator on the car, which is why the pressure was so high here. That's 2 psi more than normal.
 

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Bowtie,

If I remember correctly you are/were running a Nitrous Works plate. What FastEddie and the rest of the boys running a NOS system DONT realize, is the Nitrous Works jetting has always been smaller fuel then NO2 with very little timing removed. Not much FAT in their jetting. Truely a very easy system to work with. Cant help the fact that NOS figured this out only a few years ago and others have been doing this for the last 20 years.

I have used a Nitrous Works plate since 1992, no issues. Since I have tried plates from Zex, NOS and Edlebrock. I always go back to the Nitrous Works plate. It is much easier to tune and always puts a tenth on any other plate I haved tried to work with. 7.50's on motor and 6.60's on a 150 with 108 lobe seperation angle and 37 degrees of timing. 6.40's on a 200 @ 35 degrees of timig.

Not much for magazine tests, however Car Craft did a plate shootout several years ago and the Nitrous Works plate came in second to the Wilson manifolds system.

Best bang for the buck, NITROUS WORKS!
 

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I have used a Nitrous Works plate since 1992, no issues
Mine has layed on the shop floor for months at a time. I get a bug once in awhile, dust it off and re-install, make a few passes before getting thrown out for going too fast and toss it back in the shop. Same tiny solenoids (I've seen larger solenoids used for purging systems!) that have never been touched--never used any kind of filter, never had any Hobbs switch or safety device of any kind. People used to come ask me for advice on stting up a system--I tell them peel the plastic shrinkwrap off the cardboard, glance at the instruction sheet, bolt it on and go have fun. I made one pass with the 125 jetting and then went to the 200 jetting which has been in there since day one, even on the all cast junk 350 that ran 6.60/101 with a 218° @ .050" hydraulic cam and Performer intake/VS 750 combo. Pretty much foolproof in my book, but some people say I'm just lucky.:D
 

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Bowtie,

If I remember correctly you are/were running a Nitrous Works plate. What FastEddie and the rest of the boys running a NOS system DONT realize, is the Nitrous Works jetting has always been smaller fuel then NO2 with very little timing removed. Not much FAT in their jetting. Truely a very easy system to work with. Cant help the fact that NOS figured this out only a few years ago and others have been doing this for the last 20 years.

I have used a Nitrous Works plate since 1992, no issues. Since I have tried plates from Zex, NOS and Edlebrock. I always go back to the Nitrous Works plate. It is much easier to tune and always puts a tenth on any other plate I haved tried to work with. 7.50's on motor and 6.60's on a 150 with 108 lobe seperation angle and 37 degrees of timing. 6.40's on a 200 @ 35 degrees of timig.

Not much for magazine tests, however Car Craft did a plate shootout several years ago and the Nitrous Works plate came in second to the Wilson manifolds system.

Best bang for the buck, NITROUS WORKS!
I guarantee if you pull more fuel jet away and take away more timing even with your Nitrous Works plate there is more power safely then the way it is!!!:yes:
 

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I guarantee if you pull more fuel jet away and take away more timing even with your Nitrous Works plate there is more power safely then the way it is!!!:yes:
How do you know what my jet spread is now?:confused:

Twenty years spraying 150-200...........Zero reliability issues, no thanks. I'm good. I dont class race and have no worries with the current tune.

-Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Fasteddie

I have a quick question about how much timing you would pull on a 275 HP shot with 39 degrees of total timing. I was thinking of pull 14-16 degrees to end up with 23-25 total timing? I will be using C12 gas
 
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