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Discussion Starter #1
I know this subject has been beat to death but I can't find the alignment specs for my car for the life of me. I have spent over an hour searching for old threads with no result.:eek:

Can someone point me in the right direction for alignment specs for a 66?:D

ALSO..

What setting do most people use for the lower control arm lock out kits? I have my plates set where the hole for the bolt is positioned low and towards the motor. Is this correct? I figured I would ask now before I stick the motor in.

Here is pics of my lock outs..is it right?


Front side passenger:


Front side drivers:


Any input is appreciated!:D :D

Dave:)
 

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Dave, i don't know what page, but i know Rex has lockout shots at his site...


the alignment specs i'm clueless... sorry bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
the Flyer said:
year 2, page 16 for the lockouts.


sorry that's all i could help with.

67chevyII.com Rex's site ;)
I just got done checking it out. Looks like he has his bolts mounted low and towards the wheels. If his alignment is correct in this position then it would be smart for me to go ahead and turn mine around to where the the bolts are on the outer side. I wonder if most people use this same position as baseline. Glad I asked.:D :D I also noticed his lockout kits have more offset than my lockouts. Mine has one hole but can be used in multiple positions. I wonder if anyone else can chime in on this??
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks Super Sport. Great torque spec info for the front end parts! The alignment specs are different from the chevy II only specs that used to be up. Looks like they redisigned their website..:( ...Does anyone else have some front end specs they would like to share. I used to have a nice long thread regarding alignment specs and people's opinion over them conflicting. I believe it was deleted.:eek:

Anyone want to add their 2 cents here?

SERVICE MANUAL
SECTION 14 SPECS

ALIGNMENT SPECS:
CONDITIONS: Curb weight, full tank of gasoline, full radiator, proper engine oil level, proper tire pressure level, and no passenger. heights not held.

CAMBER: -1/4 deg, +- 1/2 deg within 1/2 deg from side to side
CASTER: -1 deg, +- 1/2 deg within 1/2 deg from side to side
TOE IN: 3/16" to 5/16" total

Does this sound correct guys? Does anyone have the specs ChevyIIonly used to have posted before they went and changed their website????


Proper alignment is my #1 priority. These cars become very unstable at high speeds with incorrect alignments.

With this said...I plan to beat this thread to death until I feel I have consensus among fellow board members. Nothing is more confusing and frustrating than having different sources for alignment specs which conflict one another.

Please...carry on.:D :D :D
 

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Here are the specs from chevy2only.:chev:

62-67 Nova Alignment Specifications
1/4 degrees positive camber both sides
1 to 1 1/2 positive caster, no more than 1/4 degree difference side to side
Set toe to "0" or 1/64 out

It may take 2 hours to get the above spec but you must adhere to it to make it right!

Gary
 

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i saved this a while ago...

Those lock out plates for the eccentrics...no matter who makes them ...are pretty much a neccessity..and once its set...your done until something like a bushing or ball joint wears out.
Here are the alignment specs from Global West. I think these are the ones they include with their lockout kit:

Caster - 2.5 (right side)
Caster - 2.0 (left side)
Camber .5 Negative
Toe-in 3/32 (0 toe is also an option)


Per Chevy II only:

62-67 Nova Alignment Specifications
1/4 degrees positive camber both sides
1 to 1 1/2 positive caster, no more than 1/4 degree difference side to side
Set toe to "0" or 1/64 out (1/64= .0156)



So this is what we have so far:
CASTER:
Batman (suggested=.5-1.5 postive) (preferably 1 deg postive)
NOGO (suggested 1-1.5 positive) (Preferably 1.5 positive)
Chevy II only (suggested 1-1.5 positive BUT no more than .5 difference between left and right side)
CAMBER:
Batman (suggested= 0-1 postive) (preferably .5 deg postive)
NOGO (suggested 0-.5 positive) (Preferably .5 positive)
Chevy II only (suggested .25 positive)
TOE:
Batman (suggested= .25-.38 postive)
NOGO (suggested .1 positive) (Preferably .2 positive)
Chevy II only (suggested 0- .02 positive)
 

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hi
I am a alignment tech at a gmc dealer and have done several alignments on the 1st gen nova's what i have found with these cars is the more caster you can get in them the better they will handle my normal specs i try to set are.
caster 2 +-1/2 degree positive
camber .5 positive left and right
toe no more than 3/16"

hope this will help!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is what we have:

CASTER:

  • SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 63:
    Neg 1 degree (+/- .5 deg, no more than .5 deg difference from side to side).
  • GLOBAL WEST:
  • Positive 2.5 deg Right, Positive 2.0 deg left
  • CHEVY II ONLY:
  • Positive 1 to 1.5 deg (No more the .25 deg difference from side to side)
  • BATMAN:
  • Postive .5 to 1.5 deg (preferebly 1 deg positive)
  • NOGO:
  • positive 1 to 1.5 deg (Preferebly 1.5 deg positive)



CAMBER:

  • SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 63:
    Neg .25 (1/4) degree (+/- .5 deg, no more than .5 deg difference from side to side).
  • GLOBAL WEST:
  • Negative .5 deg
  • CHEVY II ONLY:
  • Positive .25 deg both sides
  • BATMAN:
  • Postive 0 to 1 deg (preferebly .5 deg positive)
  • NOGO:
  • positive 0 to .5 deg (Preferebly .5 deg positive)


TOE:

  • SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 63:
    Positive 3/16 to 5/16 (.1875 <.19> to .3125 <.31>
  • GLOBAL WEST:
  • Positive 3/32 (.09375 <.09>)
  • CHEVY II ONLY:
  • Positive 1/64 (.0156 <.02>)
  • BATMAN:
  • Postive .25 to .38 deg
  • NOGO:
  • suggest positive .1 deg (Preferebly .2 deg positive)




Can you see where my confusion sets in? Many of these are similar; however, SOME OF THEM are WAY OFF. Especially, the service manual specs!!:confused: :confused:

Would anyone else like to add any comments to this???!? I remember getting a lot of feedback on this thread before and now it seems everyone is avoiding it like the plague!:rolleyes: :rolleyes: I wish people would state whether they used a certain spec and how it drove in normal and race conditions (high speeds). I really only want to visit this issue once if I can help it.:)

Also....I haven't heard input on the lockout plates. I know Novatorious and I aren't the only ones running lower control arm lock outs on this board. I am suprised NOBODY has suggested I turn my plates around since they are obviously in wrong. Shouldn't the bolts be located in the lower/OUTER location not the lower/INNER location??!?!?:confused: :confused:

PLEASE (For the love of God) people...give me some insight here.:D :D :D

Dave:D
 

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FunkyNova66 said:
Also....I haven't heard input on the lockout plates. I know Novatorious and I aren't the only ones running lower control arm lock outs on this board. I am suprised NOBODY has suggested I turn my plates around since they are obviously in wrong. Shouldn't the bolts be located in the lower/OUTER location not the lower/INNER location??!?!?:confused: :confused:
Part of the problem here is that they are adjustable for a reason: every car is slightly different. The only way you're going to be able to tell what orientation is correct is to install it and measure the alignment. What works on someone else's car may not be right for your car. The plates are designed to fit in a number of different ways so that you can get different adjustments.

The only way to find the right orientation is to set it up and measure.

Unfortunately, you're not going to be able to measure much of anything until you have the engine and transmission in, and it's settled into the right ride height...so...you're going to have to be patient.

You only need to get it sorta close in order to drive it to the alignment shop. You can do that with a protractor, a level, and some string. If you don't want to do that, or it's a long drive to the shop, you could always have it towed there.

If you want to get the alignment closer than that and skip the alignment shop, you're going to need to get some tools, and do the trial-and-error method with the plate orientation...which is what the shop would need to do anyway.

I'm assuming you have installed all new front suspension components? In that case, even after the shop has a shot at it, stuff will settle in a bit over the first 6-12 months or so, and you'll want to get it realigned anyway.

No easy answers here...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks Patman for the response! I really do appreciate it. Yes I have the suspension in and am about to finish up this project.


I guess what I am trying to get at is the following:

I would think that if most people (80%) are running the lock out plates in a particular location (lower outer) that it would be safe to say I have an 80% chance of not having to move them. If I ended up having to move them...no big deal. I was trying to get a feel of where most people have theirs in effort of reducing the amount of times I move these plates because I have no baseline at all. I don't expect my car to be the same as everyones...but I wouldn't be suprised if most people have theirs in the same location and that nobody's simply asked the question.

My other BIG concern is the discrepancy between all the alignment specs. Look for yourself. I would have to say those are some pretty big differences in some of the sources. So what I am hoping to hear from most people is.. what they have theirs set to and whether or not it works for them.

Again, I don't expect every car to be the same but I would think someone could tell me whether or not they have used a neg camber or caster spec and what they prefer their toes set at. Chevy II Only and Global West evidently do not see the significance in running a heavy toe. I wonder why? I thought toe is what keeps these cars straight at high speeds.

I totalled my last chevy II due to bad alignment and I just want to make sure I have a good idea as to what is "SAFE SPECS" before I go have mine set.

I just wish more people commented on this topic....that's all.

Again Patman.. thanks for the response...it's a start. :)

Dave
 

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If you run a neg caster it will cause you to loose feel of the road and the car will want to wander. The more positive caster you run will give you more road feel and make the car feel planted to the road especially at high speed. as far a using a negative camber will not really affect the car alot, could just cause the tires to wear out faster.
 

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I guess then I'm in the 20 percent that does not run the lock-out kit. After much thought, I decided to decline running them with my Global West front end parts as you cannot get exactly what you want, almost like compromising. Mike Goble had mentioned he re-drilled his to get correct alignment specs if I'm not mistaken. So I opted for the "old school" fix, by placing a small tack weld on the bottom of the eccentric, thus locking my aligment in place. Seems to work well. I've never experianced improperly worn tires after eight years and one new front spring swap with this method. Yet another option- that's all! Good luck. dale
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
teddisnoke said:
I guess then I'm in the 20 percent that does not run the lock-out kit. After much thought, I decided to decline running them with my Global West front end parts as you cannot get exactly what you want, almost like compromising. Mike Goble had mentioned he re-drilled his to get correct alignment specs if I'm not mistaken. So I opted for the "old school" fix, by placing a small tack weld on the bottom of the eccentric, thus locking my aligment in place. Seems to work well. I've never experianced improperly worn tires after eight years and one new front spring swap with this method. Yet another option- that's all! Good luck. dale
Hey Dale. I think you misunderstood my post:) ...

I was referring to the ones that were using the lock out plates probably 80% of them are using the same position/location. I don't know...but I was guessing. If I can get several people to confirm a certain position seems to work well for them, at least I can use that position for a start. I may find they are all different...Who knows??.. when nobody is sharing information regarding their experiences.

Nice to know I can always put the old eccentrics back on and tack weld them if necessary. At the rate this thread is going...that seems like a very likely scenerio.

Thanks,
Dave:D
 

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When was the other thread posted? The search feature only goes back so far, but you can get to threads back to 2004 by looking here:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/archive/index.php/f-10.html

There's 6 pages of results, if you remember some word from the thread title, you can do a browser search (ctrl-f or F3) for it on each of the 6 pages. Not as convenient as the regular search, but...lots of good stuff available there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
patman said:
When was the other thread posted? The search feature only goes back so far, but you can get to threads back to 2004 by looking here:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/archive/index.php/f-10.html

There's 6 pages of results, if you remember some word from the thread title, you can do a browser search (ctrl-f or F3) for it on each of the 6 pages. Not as convenient as the regular search, but...lots of good stuff available there.
I actually found it when I went back to work today after a 2 week vacation. I had printed it a long time ago and still had it up in my cabinets!. :D I guess I am just gonna come up with a conservative spec and go with it. I'm bound to get it close and then I can just tweak it from there.

Happy Birthday Patman.:D :D
Thanks for the input!
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #19
NovatoriusRex said:
Toe: 0
Camber: Left: 0, Right: 0
Caster: Left: +1, Right: + 1.5
Thanks for digging that up!

Caster looks good. I would probably go with a .5 camber and a little toe (.1-.2).
I would think a little toe would help keep the car planted and center on the road at high speeds. Just a thought to keep in mind when you go to get re-aligned.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was an another board and got some feedback on this issue.....



I figured I would share this response from another member:

"NEVER run positive camber on any car, especially early GM's as the gain is usually postive when cornering. That said, here is my suggestion based on 15 years as a brake/suspension expert-

CAMBER= -.50 to -.75*
CASTER= +2*, give the right side a little more lead for road crown
TOE= 1/8" total toe in"




Anyone else have any thoughts about alignements on 2nd gens?

I still need to take mine in and get it aligned so I'm still open to suggestions.

Dave:D
 
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