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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all, I will likely be asking more questions in the future about my 63 which has a 283 and m20 conversion. An old conversion for sure but still not very professionally done in my opinion. The clutch linkage, pedals, etc is a hodge podge collection of whatever moved and actuated the linkage but I dont think properly. I have not actually measured the distance the clutch fork moves but i have to bury the pedal to get it to go into first gear smoothly and it doesnt shift great.

My question is surrounding the Nova specific linkage, z-bar, pushrod, fork, bell housing etc. Are all of these bent specifically for clearance due to the tight spaces with these cars or are they shaped the way they are to move the pivot fork a certain amount? I have no clue what is installed in my car except the pushrod apparently came out of a 60-something truck and the fork opening in the bell housing is at 9 o’clock.

Last question is are the aftermarket 4 speed conversion kits based on the 7 or 9 o’clock position? Im thinking it might just be easier to buy the kit so i at least know i have all the right gear. I also have no idea what kind of clutch is installed or if the correct throw out bearing is in there.

Thanks in advance. I ask more questions here than I answer but I really appreciate all the help here.
 

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Take some pics and try to get a pic of the casting # on the bellhousing. I'm curious what fork they used that actually fit in the tunnel at the 9:00 position. Does the car have headers and if so, what type and part number? I've hear that the 9:00 position bellhousing is preferred when running headers and a hydraulic clutch. It locates the hydraulic lines away from the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It has the old style ram horns on it. The oil pan is stock style not the Nova specific conversion pan which likely explains why the engine is so tight to the firewall that I dont think i could remove the valve cover if needed...I will snap some pics tonight when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd save yourself some frustration and get the entire kit if you can swing it.
I can swing the kit just fine just not the time :( Of the two different conversion kits I have seen, one keeps a rear sump oil pan but it appears to almost wrap around and underneath the steering linkage. The other, obviously, is the front sump pan, pick up tube, etc. Is one better than the other or just different? I've read about ground clearance concern with the rear sump pan that partly sits under the linkage but I would think by the time you take that out then whatever you hit in the road likely has wrecked a lot more than the oil pan :D

The other thing is that I will most likely have to pull the motor to rectify the clutch linkage and mount concerns and I have plans to replace the meager 283 with a ballsy 327 just not right now. Guess I'll be getting some practice at that then.

Last question....Is the purpose of the bellcrank shape because of the location of the motor in the conversion? I'm guessing the ball studs are not directly across from each other with the engine oriented correctly...? The zbar in mine is straight which might also explain why it is so tight to the firewall I'm guessing?
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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I can't really help out with your 63

I'm a 3rd gen .....

but, go buy a Factory Assembly Manual for your year Nova ...........

( I bought two -- for my 69, and read .. check them almost every other week) ..... money WELL Spent.

I used my FAM big-time , last Feb / March when installing my T 5 trans --- going from the P/G to the 5 speed.


jim
 
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