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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
This is the Eagle rotating assembly kit I ordered from CNC-Motorsports. I also had all the options listed:

ESP-13057
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=9315&CtgID=9048
Eagle H Beam Rods (add $ 135.00)
Internally balanced Assembly (add $ 110.00)
Eagle 4340 Forged Steel Crankshaft (Includes Upgraded Clevite 77 H Bearings)


It included these file-fit rings. I gapped the rings for up to 250hp shot, so my combo left a little bit on the table when running N/A:

CR3690-45
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=10012&CtgID=

Here's a pic showing the 2-piece rear seal "clocked" so that the seams did not line up with the parting line of the block/cap. Also, don't assume a brand new rotating assembly is spotlessly clean. Take the time to clean EVERYTHING...TWICE. 3rd pic is my ring filing setup and piston assembly line.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Fasteners and such

All of my rod bolts were ARP2000 bolts. Yes, they are pricey, but you do get what you pay for here. A tight quench distance and relatively high RPM could quickly spell disaster with inferior fasteners. I was building the bottom-end with "room to grow" in the HP department and didn't want to do it twice.

Note: the next motor I built re-used this same bottom-end saw nothing short of 7500 rpm shifts. It never blinked an eye.

Prior to installation, I measured and recorded the length of EACH rod bolt. That way, during future tear downs or freshening up of the motor, I could measure each rod bolt again to see the how much each bolt fatigued and if I should re-use it.

ARP assembly lube was applied to the threads and to the face of the nut. Each rod bolt was precisely stretched to ARP's specs using a stretch gauge...no torque wrench here.

Here's a link to a good article in Car Craft about using a rod bolt stretch gauge. It also talks about the ARP2000 bolts:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0609_using_rod_bolt_stretch_tool/index.html

The pics show before and after stretching a rod bolt.
 

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Thats a great build. I would like to build a similar 383 this winter. I'll be using a later model block with a roller cam and lifters, 1 pc rear main seal and 906 vortec castings. Dave, what head gaskets did you use in the build?:yes: Thanks for the great info.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Thats a great build. I would like to build a similar 383 this winter. I'll be using a later model block with a roller cam and lifters, 1 pc rear main seal and 906 vortec castings. Dave, what head gaskets did you use in the build?:yes: Thanks for the great info.
I believe these are the gaskets I used:

0.028" Composition w/ Graphite - Small Block Chevy Head Gasket
Part Number:
14096405
Brand:
GM Performance Parts
SKU: 14096405
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/14096405
 

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Its great to see you post up, and resurrect the build-up on the motor! Your 383, my 406. You still ran better!!!

Vortec heads back then were like, "naw, you need more cylinder head". Proved 'em wrong!


When the money tree starts growing again, I"ll put our favorite all around head again to the test, under yet another 400, but with a new crank, and Mahle pistons, to yield a 410. #.08's ,and mid elevens, with a very small cam.

These combos are so bullet proof, why spend the money on parts, when attention to the little details is all thats needed!!

Dale
 

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Actually I kinda followed Dave's build with my combo. His detailed build inspired me to do a 383 and step it up a little over my 355.
I did cheap out in a few areas though, where Dave went first class.

I went with an internally balanced cast crank instead of forged. I also went with the 6" rods. I also went with flat tops and zero deck height. For the heads, I did a ghetto P&P on my Vortecs and had larger valves installed. Also running a RPM airgap, but a 650 DP instead of Daves good carb. Dave did more work on the oiling than I did, I am just running a notched rear sump pan with no scraper or widage tray. I wish I had installed these. I am running a Melling HV55 pump. while Dave ran a custom flat tappt, I am running a regular part number 2888 Hydraulic roller. I have 1 3/4" headers and full 3" exhaust over the back axle, but haven't yet run uncorked. I'm running a 3,000 stall vigilante in my 200-4R, but also have 3.73 gears. I am running extended e-bay slapper bars with 235 x 60 X 15 MT ET Radials. I shift at 6,000 rpm and usually expect to run 11.7-11.9s with the best shown below. I drive my car the 60 miles roundtrip back and forth to the track and run pump 93 octane also with 34 degrees of total timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I did cheap out in a few areas though, where Dave went first class.
I built this bottom end strong enough to withstand the addition of more power on down the road. About a year later, this same bottom end ran 10.80-90 N/A with out-of-the-box Canfield CNC 215cc heads and a used solid roller bumpstick.
 

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Do you guys know what ever happened to Chris AKA "Repointer"? His car ran surprisingly well with RHS Vortecs ? His 357 went [email protected] 111mph and was nothing special. He rebuilt the shortblock when it developed a rod bearing problem and changed the cam slightly and still ran bottom 12s with some minor issues. So it could be replicated with similar results. At one point I was tempted to follow it using the RHS heads, but stock vortecs would make good power, ether way. Still, his success always made me wonder if the RHS Heads are worth the extra investment? (or maybe just using slightly modified vortecs with 202/160 valves)

There was talk of putting a 383 or 406 shortblock in his car but then he stopped posting I guess.:confused: Heres an old thread about his setup...

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67420
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
...(or maybe just using slightly modified vortecs with 202/160 valves)
FWIW, I kept the stock 1.94/1.50 valves. With 170cc runners, 1.94/1.50 valves and 1-5/8 headers, this motor made lots of torque which was a integral part of the puzzle as to why it ran so fast. A few passes I saw it pull 1.5x 60ft times .
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I found a build that HR did where they compared the RHS's like Chris had to a pair of 062 vortecs The RHSs made an additional 12 HP and flowed better at a higher lift but made a little less torque on the low end....

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0906_small_block_chevy_build/camshaft_cylinder_heads.html

I will probably just stick with the regular vortecs but the RHS heads are still nice though.
Yup I have the article in my office. Can't really go wrong with either one.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Video added

Here's a vid of one of the first N/A passes made with the Vortec 383. It ran 11.71 in this video, but ultimately ran 11.50s with some fine tuning of the motor and chassis. Enjoy!

 
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