Proper way to bleed brakes with prop valve.
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You bleed them to get the air out of the system. You can do it with two people or one.. with two people one person pumps the peddle and holds it the other one bleeds the lines and refills the reservoir.
For the solo method you’ll need a collection reservoir to capture the brake fluid and prevent drawing air back into the system. You will have to do everything press the peddle slowly and hold then slowly release the peddle then you also have to make sure you don’t run the master cylinder dry and draw air into the system.
Both methods work the same sequence farthest wheel to closest wheel..
For the solo method you’ll need a collection reservoir to capture the brake fluid and prevent drawing air back into the system. You will have to do everything press the peddle slowly and hold then slowly release the peddle then you also have to make sure you don’t run the master cylinder dry and draw air into the system.
Both methods work the same sequence farthest wheel to closest wheel..
Yeah I know how to do both ways already, i was asking if there's a particular way to do them. Is there any difference?
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The way I did mine was front to back, left to right. Basically, I started with the line closest to the master cylinder and worked my way to the line farthest from it. Don't be surprised if it takes *forever*. I thought I'd never get all the air out of my totally new system.
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Nothing particularly different to do.. it’s a normal bleed process..
Ok. I just found this tool, https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-PROP...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 . Do you really need this?
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There’s a shuttle valve in the combination valve to turn on the brake light. IF that shuttle slid over it CAN block the fluid flow. I never had that pose a problem for me in bleeding brakes. I suppose it could creat a problem but you’ll know if your not getting fluid past it as there will not be any fluid to the rear axle.. I would say go ahead and start bleeding them see if you have a problem.. Its not been a problem in my experience.
dave ,
I bought that "black tool, for my new combo-valve" .... I DID-NOT use that.
Before you start (bench bleed u'r m/c), then with everything ready ---
start by opening the RR bleeder & let it gravity bleed. Keep u'r m/c topped off. When you get flow to u'r RR .... then gravity bleed the left rear ... before you even go "pumping anything".
Alot of people (including me), just start th'pumping , and get nothing or VERY little ......... save yourself some headache : by getting the lines flowing before u start bleeding.
ps : the RR may take a few minutes too start the flow , (let the RR flow for a few seconds , maybe get a few ounces), the LR will start the flow much sooner. Gravity bleed the Fronts, also ... be ready.
Now, for your "Combo valve" --- use your test light (install the clip on the light switch -- stick the pointed end on the + post) . When you start pumping -- the person doing the pumping watches the Test - Light.
Light IS OFF -- good to pump -- Light go ON -- combo valve is Tripped , easy !
TO Re-set your valve : remove that light switch ... use an 'ice-pick' type tool (small screw-driver) , and reset the valve. WHICH way -- have a flashlight look into combo valve -- you can tell -- just move "guts" back to the center position. reinstall light switch, then back to pumping .....
KEEP u'r m/c topped off .
(by removing the light switch ... (it has o-ring seals, on the slide-valve) ... IT Will - Not let Air into u'r system). ( unless you take all day !!! ).
some people make it hard (including me) ... I think, most guys only bleed their brake systems once or twice , in the life of their cars. It's Not hard, just don't make-it hard .
jim
ps : by using the 'Test light' ... "Wax-on ... Wax-off" ----- the light don't fool you. By '"gravity bleeding --- you don't spend hours .. bleeding / pumping.
It can take A Long Time to Fill those empty brake lines ... either front or rear .. or both .
I hope this makes sense ....
Good thing to have : go to your parts store , buy some small "clear plastic tubing" that will fit 'snugly over your bleeder screw. I'd buy about 2/3 feet ... a dab-of motor oil on the end of clear tube - slip onto bleeder screw , install other end into a Clear Bottle or open container where you can see fluid-flow. If you do the gravity flow system ... just watch the clear bottle.
just trying to help - out
jim
just trying to help - out
jim
I have always had difficulty with using gravity bleed on drum brakes because of the residual valve(s). No big deal, with empty lines I just open the bleeders and pump the brake pedal, making sure the master cylinder stays topped off.
On the other hand, gravity bleeding the front discs is all that's necessary and only takes 1 minute or less per wheel. No further bleeding necessary.
On the other hand, gravity bleeding the front discs is all that's necessary and only takes 1 minute or less per wheel. No further bleeding necessary.
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