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Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment

First off, let me say that that link posted earlier is very complicated for the average gearhead. Plus, for all the SB & BB chevies I've put together I've NEVER set the lash at full lift:confused:. The easiest way is to get a service manual and follow the procedure in the book. If you're having trouble finding #1 Firing position, pop the distributor cap and reference it according to the pic in the manual. Adjust the first set in that positon (Mark each valve with a china maker or paint pen as you do them) then rotate the engine to #6 firing and do the rest with a different color marker so you know you got em' and you should be good to go. If this engine has been run, be careful to make adjustments 1/4 turn at a time so's you dunt bend anything. You know, 1/4 turn - sip your beer twice, 1/4 turn.:yes:

There's a school of thought out there that likes to adjust earlier hydraulics to "Zero lash + 1/2 or 3/4 turn, I can't say I've seen any gains from that. I think that someone might have been trying to "Save" his cam by doing that, but if a cam is going to fail, it'll probably fail anyway.

For you folks wanting to recognize your lifters, Solids will always have a metalic tapping with "Chain" rythym to em. With a 3" and 4" exhaust, lumpy cam and compression noise, it might be hard to hear.
 

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So i was reading this to see how you are supposed to adjust the lash. I was told to run the engine, loosen the rockers till it started to chatter like hell then tighten it till it stops then its good and move onto the next one. Now, its a stock 250 in a 77. I tried to get a half thou in and it wont go. And yes it was not on a lobe. I have mech lifters and stock rockers. What is the correct method on adjustment? Thanks in advance.
 

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If I am reading this right you have a solid lifter motor (mechanical)? If so, you are using the wrong procedure. You are describing the procedure for hydraulic lifter motors. If you have a solid lifter car you need to leave a certain amount of lash in it and since it is stock one of the guys on here probably knows the right lash for it.
 

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So if I adjust my solid roller "cold" and take out .006" am I done? Or do I need to re adjust the lash to the "hot" specs on cam card after it warms up?
 

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I know this is an old thread but im going to teach all you young bucks a sweet trick my bro and I learned 20 years ago from old school hot rodders... I still use it today...

go to any junkyard... find a small block v8 in said yard

yank the perimeter bolts from valve cover...

purchase used valve covers and take them home...

take out sawzall or cut off tool and cut the top of the valve covers out, right across the top.. 2 inches wide and full width of valve cover. You should be able to see all the rocker arm nuts but not the tops or bottoms of those rockers...

install those valve covers loosely onto the head and fire up the motor

now you can adjust valves all day long without all the mess then put your good ones back on when your done.

easiest way is to loosen it up a bit till you hear it ticking.. then slowly tighten it till it stops...as soon as it stops... give 1/2 turn and your done. you can play games with cold lash and hot lash and the like... but this way has worked for a lot of guys including me for many years.

just my 2 cents.... happy motoring!!

this does not work for centerbolt motors.. this of us using vortec heads just have to get a lil messy :D:D
 

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I know this is an old thread but im going to teach all you young bucks a sweet trick my bro and I learned 20 years ago from old school hot rodders... I still use it today...

go to any junkyard... find a small block v8 in said yard

yank the perimeter bolts from valve cover...

purchase used valve covers and take them home...

take out sawzall or cut off tool and cut the top of the valve covers out, right across the top.. 2 inches wide and full width of valve cover. You should be able to see all the rocker arm nuts but not the tops or bottoms of those rockers...

install those valve covers loosely onto the head and fire up the motor

now you can adjust valves all day long without all the mess then put your good ones back on when your done.

easiest way is to loosen it up a bit till you hear it ticking.. then slowly tighten it till it stops...as soon as it stops... give 1/2 turn and your done. you can play games with cold lash and hot lash and the like... but this way has worked for a lot of guys including me for many years.

just my 2 cents.... happy motoring!!

this does not work for centerbolt motors.. this of us using vortec heads just have to get a lil messy :D:D
Been there, done that! Finally got rid of the cut out valve covers awhile back. Is it easy? yeah, sort of. But I gotta say, it's easier to just set them right cold while building the motor. I can't remember the last time I had to go back in and readjust valves.
 

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So if I adjust my solid roller "cold" and take out .006" am I done? Or do I need to re adjust the lash to the "hot" specs on cam card after it warms up?
I would check them hot and if they are spot on then you know what to do next time.
 

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Here's what worked for me... Rather than spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct 'feel', hold the pushrod between two fingers and lift the pushrod up and down while slowly tightening the adjustment nut. When you reach the point where there is no more up and down movement you will be at 0 lash. Tighten an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I did this with a cold motor and all valves adjust correctly.
 

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Ok guys Well reason um writing is because I'm having some problems with adjusting rocker arms. Well I did as said TDC 1 adjust then TDC 6 and adjust. Problem is when I rotate the engine to get to TDC 6 a lot of the rocker arms I adjusted at TDC 1 were loose. They were snugged down good no play but when I went to TDC 6 they were loose. Wat u think.


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Ok guys Well reason um writing is because I'm having some problems with adjusting rocker arms. Well I did as said TDC 1 adjust then TDC 6 and adjust. Problem is when I rotate the engine to get to TDC 6 a lot of the rocker arms I adjusted at TDC 1 were loose. They were snugged down good no play but when I went to TDC 6 they were loose. Wat u think.


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Well then do one at a time. When the exhaust starts to open adjust the intake and when the intake starts to close set the exhaust. Put a piece of tape or mark them as you go if you have to. I set all mine like this on the engine stand and forget about them after that, excluding solid lifters that is.

Work the pushrod up and down except for the last little bit. I spin it in my fingers and you can tell exactly when zero lash occurs, then I add 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Very easy to do.
 
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