Hvymtlc5 said:Why is it different for mech vs hyd (as far a degree of engine rotation). I thought you adjusted hyd. in 90 degree increments too - as you listed?
I don't normally progress in the firing order, I just go down one bank then the other as it's easier for me to keep track. You can have the valvetrain installed completely with the rockers roughly adjusted, tight enough so the pushrod won't fall out. I just click the starter and watch the rockers until the valve I'm adjusting is in the right position. As you adjust each, loosen it until you know it's loose, then tighten it until it's right.70sswildone said:thanks mike, i read your instructions 4 times and it`s starting to sink in and make sense to me heres how i read it adjust intake and exhaust on 1cylinder at a time progressing in firing order. with pushrods removed,watch lifters. when the lifter is in the position you stated adjust that valve in the manner you suggest. am i on track? thanks
i need to know the same exact thing i have a striker 383 please explain like i am a two year oldAllAmericanRacer said:Hi Guys, It's been a couple of decades since I adjusted lifters so I seek your help. First off, I am new to the car and don't know if it has hydraulic or solid lifters. The seller was no help as he was just turning the car for cash. How can I determine if they are solid or hydraulic and then what would be the proper way to adjust each? Oh, it's a 402. Thanks as always, Marc
The increase/decrease idea is good, but theres a much better way of doing the adjustment sequence. Get a starter button from Snap-on, Mac, ect, and connect to the starter (is it really nescessary to to say "Make sure its out of gear/in park?) I usually do intake or exhaust all at once so I dont' have to change the feeler guage around. Pick a valve and check it for the proper lash (if you have to bump it off to lobe).Take the starter switch and tap it (I usually use the top of the battery, ect) to slightly bump the motor over while checking the clearance. When you find the spot with the most clearance, adjust it there. Roll the motor over completely three of four times, whatever it takes. By this method you will alway have the best possible and quietest/longest lasting adjustment by finding the lowest part of the lobe. Just because a manufacture tells you a sequence,that doesn't mean thats the lowest point of the lobe. Mecanical roller cams epecially benefit from this as they're more sensitive to changes in clearance's. I always use this method on everything with solid lifters (cars, bikes, foreign, domestic, ect) and have had people tell me it's never sounded so good.65 Post said:Forget the tape. Here's all you need to know direct from Crane.
How To Set Valve Lash
When the engine is hot (at operating temperature), remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder you are going to adjust. When your engine is cold (after picking the cylinder you are going to adjust as described above), you will need to add .002” to your hot setting (Iron Block, Iron Heads) or subtract .006” from your hot setting (Iron Block, Aluminum Heads).. For Aluminum Block, Aluminum Heads, subtract .012” from your hot setting.
Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on the cylinder you’re working on. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the cam lobe.)
I don't have hydraulic lifters.I just did mine last night and I tried the non-running method. That did not work well at all for me. It seem’s you only get one shot because without the motor running there is no pressure to keep the lifter pressurized. Therefore you push oil out of the lifter if you try the adjustment more then one time. I did not have a warm fuzzy with that so, I got a set of used valve covers and cut slots in them. Had the valves adjusted in under 20 min with no mess..