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Why is it different for mech vs hyd (as far a degree of engine rotation). I thought you adjusted hyd. in 90 degree increments too - as you listed?
 

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Hvymtlc5 said:
Why is it different for mech vs hyd (as far a degree of engine rotation). I thought you adjusted hyd. in 90 degree increments too - as you listed?

Why are they different? I have no idea. I can say that the only method I have ever used for hydraulic lifters is the one I have listed. IMO, as I have nothing to compair it to, it works very well and is quite quick. Now I have even used the hydraulic method for adjusting mechanical lifters and that seems to work fine too. Reved the motor past 6800 rpm nothing floated or was acting up. BUT I have also used the other method I have listed for solids too and it also works very well.

Both of these methods came out of a Haynes repair manual for "ALL V8 Novas 1969-1979" that I have had laying around since the early 90's. Before I had that manual I had borrowed a manual from my brother. It listed only one way for adjusting the valves (the way I have listed as the hydraulic method) and as I had said earlier I used that method for both hydraulc and mechanical lifter cams for quite a while until I bought the Nova specific manual and saw that there was actually a second method for adjusting mechanical lifters. Both methods work and possibly both methods are fully interchangable..I dunno as I have never tried the mechanical cam version on a hydraulic cam. But why are they diferent I honestly have no idea. Possibly someone else will know why. :)
 

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I'll leave it up to Paul to edit this how he wants. Here's how I always do my hydraulics. Might be a quicker way but I've never had a problem. :)

 

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What I have used for years is this procedure to adjust any valves.. Hyd or solid..

write down the firing order like this

1 8 4 3

6 5 7 2


put number 1 cly on tdc..

adjust both ext and int valves on 1 turn the engine 90 degrees and then adjust 8 another 90 degrees and adjust 4 and so on.. Very easy works with the wildest cam or even stock.. It also works on other engines just use the firing order in the same way...

Mitch
 

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dry hydraulic lifters lash adjustment

just had a 350 overhauled to short block form. have new lifters. asked my machine shop guy, should i pump them up before installing? he said , you don`t have to. i failed to inquire, how do you adjust a hydraulic lifter that`s not primed. i tryed it today, i`ve adjusted hundreds of lifters that were used and primed. i guess what i`m trying to say is, how can you feel the point at which you`ve got zero lash on a dry lifter? it seems like when i get to zero lash the spring may be completely compressed. if it is, when the lifter gets pumped up will the adjustment be to tight and prematurely wear the lifter spring?
 

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I use the ICEO method, when the intake valve just closes, adjust the exhaust valve. When the exhaust valve begins to open, adjust the intake.
You should make sure that as you begin, the adjustment is loose, rattly loose. The rocker arm will have definite slop in it. As you tighten it, wiggle the lifter up and down against the pushrod. At some point you will remove all the rattle and it will begin compressing the spring inside the lifter. This is where you stop the tightening except for an addidional 1/4 turn.
 

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thanks mike, i read your instructions 4 times and it`s starting to sink in and make sense to me heres how i read it adjust intake and exhaust on 1cylinder at a time progressing in firing order. with pushrods removed,watch lifters. when the lifter is in the position you stated adjust that valve in the manner you suggest. am i on track? thanks
 

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Valve Adj.

When ever I adj. lifters on a fresh motor out of the car I use this methods it's right out of the GM service manual. Hydraulic lifter only.

Put the motor on #1 firing postion and adjust these vavles:
V8 EXHAUST: 1-3-4-8
V8 INTAKE : 1-2-5-7
V6 EXHAUST: 1-5-6
V6 INTAKE : 1-2-3

Turn the motor 1 revolution and adjust these valves:
V8 EXHAUST : 2-5-6-7
V8 INTAKE : 3-4-6-8
V6 EXHAUST : 2-3-4
V6 INTAKE : 4-5-6
While tightening the nut on rocker and rotating the pushrod until you start feeling some resistence then the rocker is preloaded and tightened the nut an additional 1/4, or 1/2 turn. I usually go 1/2 to 3/4 turn when I do it. Sometimes 1/4 turn you might have a little noise. Thats it and less time consuming and it works. :)
 

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70sswildone said:
thanks mike, i read your instructions 4 times and it`s starting to sink in and make sense to me heres how i read it adjust intake and exhaust on 1cylinder at a time progressing in firing order. with pushrods removed,watch lifters. when the lifter is in the position you stated adjust that valve in the manner you suggest. am i on track? thanks
I don't normally progress in the firing order, I just go down one bank then the other as it's easier for me to keep track. You can have the valvetrain installed completely with the rockers roughly adjusted, tight enough so the pushrod won't fall out. I just click the starter and watch the rockers until the valve I'm adjusting is in the right position. As you adjust each, loosen it until you know it's loose, then tighten it until it's right.
 

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same problem

AllAmericanRacer said:
Hi Guys, It's been a couple of decades since I adjusted lifters so I seek your help. First off, I am new to the car and don't know if it has hydraulic or solid lifters. The seller was no help as he was just turning the car for cash. How can I determine if they are solid or hydraulic and then what would be the proper way to adjust each? Oh, it's a 402. Thanks as always, Marc
i need to know the same exact thing i have a striker 383 please explain like i am a two year old
 

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65 Post said:
Forget the tape. Here's all you need to know direct from Crane.

How To Set Valve Lash


When the engine is hot (at operating temperature), remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder you are going to adjust. When your engine is cold (after picking the cylinder you are going to adjust as described above), you will need to add .002” to your hot setting (Iron Block, Iron Heads) or subtract .006” from your hot setting (Iron Block, Aluminum Heads).. For Aluminum Block, Aluminum Heads, subtract .012” from your hot setting.



Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on the cylinder you’re working on. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the cam lobe.)



__________________
The increase/decrease idea is good, but theres a much better way of doing the adjustment sequence. Get a starter button from Snap-on, Mac, ect, and connect to the starter (is it really nescessary to to say "Make sure its out of gear/in park?) I usually do intake or exhaust all at once so I dont' have to change the feeler guage around. Pick a valve and check it for the proper lash (if you have to bump it off to lobe).Take the starter switch and tap it (I usually use the top of the battery, ect) to slightly bump the motor over while checking the clearance. When you find the spot with the most clearance, adjust it there. Roll the motor over completely three of four times, whatever it takes. By this method you will alway have the best possible and quietest/longest lasting adjustment by finding the lowest part of the lobe. Just because a manufacture tells you a sequence,that doesn't mean thats the lowest point of the lobe. Mecanical roller cams epecially benefit from this as they're more sensitive to changes in clearance's. I always use this method on everything with solid lifters (cars, bikes, foreign, domestic, ect) and have had people tell me it's never sounded so good.
 

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My cam card calls for .020" / .020" HOT lash setting. According to Crane's site, they recommend subtracting .006" on iron block/aluminum head motors for COLD lash setting. So for a COLD lash setting, I'd want .014".

Now, my question is this...what is the proper technique for setting the lash with a feeler gauge? Is it as simple as sticking in the .014" feeler gauge and tightening the rocker nut until there's a slight drag on the feeler gauge when trying to slide the gauge in and out?
 

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I answered my own question. I used the "go, no go" method with the .014" and .015" feeler gauges.
 

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I just did mine last night and I tried the non-running method. That did not work well at all for me. It seem’s you only get one shot because without the motor running there is no pressure to keep the lifter pressurized. Therefore you push oil out of the lifter if you try the adjustment more then one time. I did not have a warm fuzzy with that so, I got a set of used valve covers and cut slots in them. Had the valves adjusted in under 20 min with no mess..
 

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I just did mine last night and I tried the non-running method. That did not work well at all for me. It seem’s you only get one shot because without the motor running there is no pressure to keep the lifter pressurized. Therefore you push oil out of the lifter if you try the adjustment more then one time. I did not have a warm fuzzy with that so, I got a set of used valve covers and cut slots in them. Had the valves adjusted in under 20 min with no mess..
I don't have hydraulic lifters.
 

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I have the same question 70SS had in January 06...how do you set up "dry" lifters in a cold engine so nothing gets broke when you start it up?

Dave
 

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Anything different about adjusting Vortecs?

I guess I wont be able to slot some valve covers to keep from making a mess if I do it with engine running.
 

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Hyd/Solid

Ok this might be a stupid question, but how do i tell if the car has hydraulic lifters. Let me explain my situation, I am helping a youngster with his first car. He got the car with a cracked cylinder head. I am helping him put it back together, hence I have no idea if the lifters where loaded or had clearances in the valve train. Any ideas and just so i have it straight on a cylinder I would put the first 3 cylinder over the last 3 cylinder in the firing order to find partner cylinders???? Or just probably adjust one cylinder at a time like Mike mentioned before.
 
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