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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I was wondering how you guy who have hydrolic lifter's adjust your valves?I do not like the adjust while eng. is running.That is so messy.is there any other way to adjust them.I am not sure but are they bled down if it is not running?I have a comp 270 magnum cam and the spring's,lifters to match.It is in a 400sb. :chev:
 

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Proper way to adjust lifters

Hi Guys, It's been a couple of decades since I adjusted lifters so I seek your help. First off, I am new to the car and don't know if it has hydraulic or solid lifters. The seller was no help as he was just turning the car for cash. How can I determine if they are solid or hydraulic and then what would be the proper way to adjust each? Oh, it's a 402. Thanks as always, Marc
 

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The way that you could tell if it was solid of hydraulic is to remove the valve cover and try to wiggle the rockers. If 2 or 3 wiggle fairly freely (with minimal effort), the ones that are not underpressure from the push rods, it is a solid lifter. The solids usually need 15-25 thousandths gap when not engagued (depending on manufacturer, mine Comp cams 294S is 22 thousandths)

Hydraulics if you try to wiggle the rockers they might move but they will not wiggle (flop) very easily or at all.

To adjust hydraulics you have first set zero lash and to do this you can lift, wiggle, spin the pushrod on the rocker (that is not being engagued). Then you start tightening the nut until the push rod just stops FREELY spinning. Then you give the nut about 1/4 - 1/2 extra turn.

To get them dead on after doing this, If you are not afraid of a bit of oil splash the easiest way is to start engine and let it idle. Then loosten 1 nut at a time until it starts to make a bit of noise. Then retighten until the noise just dissapears and give it 1/4 to 1/2 extra turn.

Good luck
 

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marks LT said:
I have a solid roller cam with 1.7 roller rockers in a big block.So being a solid cam and the loosness of the rockers is this why they seem to clatter a bit more then a hydraulic lifter with stamped rockers?

Thanks,Mark
Yup, no doubt!
 

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Thanks Tom, I'll keep you posted when i adjust them. I have also seen clips that prevent oil splash from the pushrods. I may pick up a set just to cut down on the mess. Anyone who has used these and says they don't work, let me know and I'll skip the clips. Thanks as always guys. Marc
 

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The clips do help a bit from the flinging of oil. The problem I have always had with the valve covers off the fan of the car does more flinging than the clips ever would.
 

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AllAmericanRacer said:
Thanks Tom, I'll keep you posted when i adjust them. I have also seen clips that prevent oil splash from the pushrods. I may pick up a set just to cut down on the mess. Anyone who has used these and says they don't work, let me know and I'll skip the clips. Thanks as always guys. Marc

I tried them years ago, and maybe I was using them wrong, but I clipped them on the rockers started the car and most of them flew off the rockers before I could walk from the drivers seat to the engine compartment. I stopped the motor replaced them to try again and exactly the same thing happend again so I tossed them in the trash :(
 

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Two other items I did not post. If you are doing mechanical lifters you should have the engine up to operating temps before doing the lash.

Also, make sure to disconnect the coil wire if you are going to rotate the engine by "bumping" the starter. (that is of course if you are not adjusting them while the engine is running ;) )
 

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69NovaSS said:
I tried them years ago, and maybe I was using them wrong, but I clipped them on the rockers started the car and most of them flew off the rockers before I could walk from the drivers seat to the engine compartment. I stopped the motor replaced them to try again and exactly the same thing happend again so I tossed them in the trash :(
I have them and they hold fine. However I have only found them to work on stock style stamped rockers.
 

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Toms73NovaSS said:
I have them and they hold fine. However I have only found them to work on stock style stamped rockers.
exactly what I had on the car :(
 

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We took an old valve cover, cut a slit on each side of the top, then across one edge of the top all the way between the two slits, then folded the 'flap' back, then installed it. This keeps the oil from splashing and running down on the headers. We then welded a nut to the top of the socket . this way we can use an open end wrench to loosen/tighten the nuts and stick an allen wrench down through the socket to tighten the poly locks.
 

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adjusting solid lifters

Can anybody help me. I put a timing tape on my balancer and want to relash my valves . Im looking for the correct prosedure with a tape on the ballancer.
I usually just keep on rooling the motor over and checking and rechecking them but want to save a little time and make sure the are right on. Thanks for any help. Corey. :confused:
 

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As far as I can tell, the procedure described on your last valve adjustment post is all you need.Tape on the balancer would have no effect. Just do it as decribed earlier.

JoeII
 

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Forget the tape. Here's all you need to know direct from Crane.

How To Set Valve Lash


When the engine is hot (at operating temperature), remove the valve covers and pick the cylinder you are going to adjust. When your engine is cold (after picking the cylinder you are going to adjust as described above), you will need to add .002” to your hot setting (Iron Block, Iron Heads) or subtract .006” from your hot setting (Iron Block, Aluminum Heads).. For Aluminum Block, Aluminum Heads, subtract .012” from your hot setting.



Hand turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation while watching the exhaust valve on the cylinder you’re working on. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake valve. (Why? Because when the exhaust is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the cam lobe.)



Place a feeler gauge set to the correct valve lash between the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm. Adjust until you arrive at the proper setting and lock the adjuster in place.



After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. Use the feeler gauge and follow the procedure described above. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted. Move to the next cylinder and follow the same procedures.





Hope this helps. Dave
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With so many questions lately about adjusting lifters I thought I would share the methods I have used over the years. They seem to be pretty straight forward and easy to do, IMO, and have always gave me good results.

Valve adjustment proceedure for Hydraulic Lifters

With the engine at TDC for the number 1 cylinder you can adjust the following lifters.

Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8

Rotate the crank 360 degrees so that the number 6 cylinder is at TDC. Once there you can adjust the following lifters.

Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7

Now to adjust the preload you want to tighten the rocker arm nut until you just remove any lash and then tighten the nut anywhere from 1/4 to 1 full turn farther. (use the same amount of preload for all lifters) Sometimes it is difficult to know when the lash has just been removed so you can use a .0015" feeler gauge to help you tell. With the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem you tighten the rocker arm nut down until you have a slight drag on the feeler gauge then remove the guage and tighten the nut the remaining 1/4 - 1 full turn farther (remember to use the same amount of preload for ALL of the lifters.) This is very quick.

This method works very well and is very quick too. Remember this is the hydraulic lifter method there is a slightly different proceedure for mechanical lifters.

BTW: I have always used a full turn of preload BUT since I have been a member here I have learned that using less than that, and maybe even as low as only 1/4 turn of preload, will actually help the high rpm limit of the motor. If my next cam is a hydraulic one I will be trying much less preload than I have used in the past.


Valve adjustment proceedure for Mechanical Lifters


With the engine at TDC for the number 1 cylinder the following lifters can be adjusted;

Intake: 2, 7
Exhaust: 4, 8

Rotate the crank 180 degrees clockwise so the following lifters can be adjusted;

Intake: 1, 8
Exhaust: 3, 6

Rotate the crank a further 180 degrees clockwise so the following lifters can be adjusted;

Intake: 3, 4
Exhaust: 5, 7

And finally rotate the crank one last time 180 degrees clockwise so the following lifters can be adjusted;

Intake: 5, 6
Exhaust: 1, 2

To adjust the lash use the proper thickness feeler gauge inserted between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem and tighten the rocker arm nut until a slight drag can be felt on the feeler gauge when you pull it out from between the rocker and valve tip. If the engine is fresh you can do it this way. Adjust the lifters cold then get the motor running and after it is fully warmed up redo the adjustment so that the lifters have now been adjusted warm. Otherwise it is always best to adjust mechanical lifters when the motor is at operating temp. :)
 
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