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While I've never had an issue like that with those retaining bolt pin deals, I've always looked at them and thought they were a disaster waiting to happen. At least you managed to get it out. I'd have been tempted to trash the whole rear end over that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
While I've never had an issue like that with those retaining bolt pin deals, I've always looked at them and thought they were a disaster waiting to happen. At least you managed to get it out. I'd have been tempted to trash the whole rear end over that.
I was very tempted to trash the rear end. However, I still have a ton of work to do in many other places and didnt want to take on that project yet. I think it will only take me a weekend to get the rear end put back together once parts show up.

On tight spot may be that I will still need to turn the hub on the axles down to fit my wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Got a small pile of parts from Summit. Moser axles and studs, bearings and seals, and the right lug nuts.

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I had to take a total of about .010" off the hub so the wheel would fit. I left a section to center the drum. During this project I learned how to dial in a 4-jaw chuck on a lathe. Not super fun, really.



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Everything dropped back together easily. Put in a new cross pin bolt, so we will see what happens. Cover is back on and last thing to do is loctite the studs and cinch them down. Oh yeah, had to drill out the drum for the 1/2" studs but that wasnt super exciting so I didnt take any pics. Also I just noticed there is a leaf stuck in there near the bearing, hahaha oh well.


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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I found this place online that sells paint matched to Prismatic Powders colors, so I picked up a couple cans of Texas Grey II so I can paint some stuff that I cant put in the oven. It generally works, but its not a stellar match. Its closer than what I've found on the shelf, but I'm not super impressed. And for the price point, not really worth it.

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The large piece (battery box cover) is the actual Prismatic Powders grey.

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
No fun pictures at the moment, but I got this beast fired up again tonight. First time since I tore it down a few months ago. All new wiring and gauges and it all worked perfectly! Have not yet checked on the dreaded cam seal plug to see if that is leaking...will wait till tomorrow for any potential disappointment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
I FINALLY finished the design of my steering arms and machined them. They were a huge pain to make (learned some lessons which I should have already known), but they fit and Im finally able to move the car around under its own power again. And so far, no sign of any of the previous leaks from the engine. Getting close to driving this thing!

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Finally got the single wheel spacer done for the rear. Oh, I dont think I explained why I had to make a single wheel spacer. Once I got the rear end back together I threw the wheels on and found that the passenger side fit perfect and the driver side hit the shock. Turns out the rear end is welded in 1" off center...of course it is!

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Just ran around the block! Came back in a cloud of smoke from the exhaust wrap doing its thing. When the second carb kicks in you better hang on! Things wants to rip! It will be nice to get it to an alignment shop because its a bit sketchy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Getting wiring done in the back of the car today. Fresh AAW wiring taking care of the tail lights, fuel gauge, etc. Make sure you disconnect the battery before plugging in an open wiring harness...couple live wires in there...:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Has anyone replaced their mono leaf bushings with something stiff like engergy suspension bushings? I have the tire/wheel clipping the shock pretty regularly going through a driveway. I can space the wheels out also, but the current rubber bushings look shot and im wondering if I can reduce motion just by adding some fresh bushings.
 

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Awesome that you officially have driven your car down the road! BTW, I think all 3rd gen Novas have the rear diff offset 1”. I remember that mine was too. The driveshaft CL was 1” to the passenger side I think? I can’t remember if I re-centered the drive shaft before I cut the axle tubes or if I left the offset in there. I’ll have to check that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Awesome that you officially have driven your car down the road! BTW, I think all 3rd gen Novas have the rear diff offset 1”. I remember that mine was too. The driveshaft CL was 1” to the passenger side I think? I can’t remember if I re-centered the drive shaft before I cut the axle tubes or if I left the offset in there. I’ll have to check that.
That is super interesting that it should be that way. Thanks for the info. I wonder if it had to do with adding pre-load to the yoke at the 3rd member? At any rate, its clear I dont have much space for my wheel/tire setup since one side didnt even fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I designed this bracket to hold my fuses on the firewall. I had a friend cut it on his CNC plasma and also do 1 of the bends. His brake wasnt able to get the second bend, so I kinda had to hack it. I used PEM nuts on the back side to receive the fasteners.

Wood Asphalt Bumper Gas Flooring

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Dropped a weld inside to tie it togehter. Pretty sloppy, but thinking Ill remake this at some point.
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Still need to tie down wiring and put the covers on the fuses.
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Since I have replaced all the wiring in the car, I thought id check to see that the headlights were working. I flipped the switch a bunch of times but had nothing going on. I hadnt plugged in the dash switch to the harness. Hah, easy fix. But, one light was out, so I pulled everything apart. Blasted and powder coated the buckets and added new lights and trim rings. All works fine now.

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
After a trip to the corner gas station, I found that the rear tires pretty easily hit the inside edge of the wheel wells. I set out to fix it since it would be undriveable, and it turned in to a huge amount of work (of course).

At first, I thought it wasnt the wheel well but was actually the shock housing. I had some brand new adjustable QA1 shocks waiting around, so I tossed those on but then noticed that wasnt going to solve it. What I could do, though, was crank them to be super stiff so there is less chance of the wheel actually getting there. But, that doesnt cure it hitting from total body roll.

I also decided to replace the leaf bushings with polyurethane ones to stiffen everything up as much as possible. What...a...nightmare.

The rear shackles could not be re-used since the carriage bolt was the wrong length. So I made new ones, as well as added compression limiters inside the polyurethane bushing. I had to machine all of this stuff because I couldnt find any off the shelf material that was close enough.

Then, taking the front bushing out was just as much of a pain. Ever done that before? Not easy. However, I figured out a decent process.

Get a 1 3/4" hole saw and use that to drill out the rubber from inside the steel carrier. Youll have to go from both sides, and dont smoke your drill like I did.
Once that is gone, grab the bi-metal blade on your sawzall and carefully slice through the steel carrier at the gap where the spring is wrapped around.
Bend the **** out of the carrier so it overlaps itself and releases the pressure on the spring, then knock it out with a flat head and a hammer. BOOM (disclaimer: actual process may take 3-5 days)

Of course, throw down some powder on the brackets before re-installing.

Old bushings in the back, new in front. Crow bar for reference.
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Start of the new shackle. 1/4" steel
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Ready for powder

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Powdered

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Compression limiter. I had to drill the center out...ugh
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Installed

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The steel carrier from the front, all hacked up.

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Nice work! Looks excellent. What’s the solution for the wheel rub? Wheel spacers? On the electrical distribution block you did, I assume no inner wheel well is going back on?
Sorry, missed this post! Would have replied sooner.

The wheel rub is better now that the shocks are stiffer and the bushings are tighter, but its not gone. Spacing the wheels out a bit more will probably be my next move. I was considering a panhard bar, but really when they rub is going in a driveway and the body rolls a lot.

For the distribution block, there are caps for the fuses which will get installed. Yes, I will put some sort of fender in there, but the stock ones I think will not fit. Id like to make some "down bars" which pick up the subframe and tie it to the top of the firewall, and those would be great to hang new inner fenders from.
 
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