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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to hopefully start on my 67 sedan in the next six months or so, and I'm trying to get some ideas on how to plan my project. The information I need to know is how much time I need to plan for each of the following components/stages?

1. Competition Engineering weld in sub-frame connectors.
2. Competition Engineering formed rear frame rails.
3. Full length floor pans.
4. Trunk floor.
5. TCI Mustang II front clip.

Is the order I have them in a good order to try and accomplish them in? I want to be able to get things planned out so I can get each one done enough that I can put the car back on it tires in three days. I know this isn't the best way to do things, but I have a 2.5 hr drive to be able to work on the car and I won't be able to get to it every weekend or even month more than likely. I need the car to be movable between the weekends I get to work on it in case grandma needs it out of the way. Thanks Hawkeye
 

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I'm looking to hopefully start on my 67 sedan in the next six months or so, and I'm trying to get some ideas on how to plan my project. The information I need to know is how much time I need to plan for each of the following components/stages?

1. Competition Engineering weld in sub-frame connectors.
2. Competition Engineering formed rear frame rails.
3. Full length floor pans.
4. Trunk floor.
5. TCI Mustang II front clip.

Is the order I have them in a good order to try and accomplish them in? I want to be able to get things planned out so I can get each one done enough that I can put the car back on it tires in three days. I know this isn't the best way to do things, but I have a 2.5 hr drive to be able to work on the car and I won't be able to get to it every weekend or even month more than likely. I need the car to be movable between the weekends I get to work on it in case grandma needs it out of the way. Thanks Hawkeye
I'd do the rails first then the pans and trunk floor. After that I'd do the SFC's and then the front clip.

Not sure how much experience you have welding so that will dictate the time it takes to get it done and be able to roll around.

John
 

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John, I'm wondering if he shouldn't do the floor first? More than likely, the floor is shot (I'm guessing that is why he's replacing it) and it might be hard to match the new rails to a bad floor. Take out the rails on a bad floor and you'll have a lot of trouble. It would need more bracing than normal for a floor replacement.

I figured the rails would still be decent, so the new floor should go in first to match the stock rails, and then the new rails to match the floor.
 

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John, I'm wondering if he shouldn't do the floor first? More than likely, the floor is shot (I'm guessing that is why he's replacing it) and it might be hard to match the new rails to a bad floor. Take out the rails on a bad floor and you'll have a lot of trouble. It would need more bracing than normal for a floor replacement.

I figured the rails would still be decent, so the new floor should go in first to match the stock rails, and then the new rails to match the floor.
I would think that if he's going to be replacing the floor with a full pan he's going to need to cut out the entire floor first. Wouldn't it be easier to install the rails with the floor out of the way, then lay the floor on top of it?

John
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First of all thanks for replying. I haven't gutted the car yet, but I do know that someone has tried to patch the drivers side floor pan. The drivers side rear frame rail is rusted through, so my plan was to either patch the bad spot and place the new rails inboard of the factory ones, or cut the factory ones out and replace them with the CE rails. My thoughts on the subframe connectors was to put those in first to help hold everything in place while the floor is out. I know they may be a pain to work around, but they could also help hold the new floors up while they are being welded. I haven't done much welding since high school, but I'm hoping some of the gus at work would help refresh me on that. Hawkeye
 

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I'm looking to hopefully start on my 67 sedan in the next six months or so, and I'm trying to get some ideas on how to plan my project. The information I need to know is how much time I need to plan for each of the following components/stages?

1. Competition Engineering weld in sub-frame connectors.
2. Competition Engineering formed rear frame rails.
3. Full length floor pans.
4. Trunk floor.
5. TCI Mustang II front clip.

Is the order I have them in a good order to try and accomplish them in? I want to be able to get things planned out so I can get each one done enough that I can put the car back on it tires in three days. I know this isn't the best way to do things, but I have a 2.5 hr drive to be able to work on the car and I won't be able to get to it every weekend or even month more than likely. I need the car to be movable between the weekends I get to work on it in case grandma needs it out of the way. Thanks Hawkeye
You are a lot faster than me if you can do all that and put it rolling again in three days.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh no. I want to try and get each of those done over a three day weekend, so 5 weekends. I'm sure even at that I'm being very optimistic. Hawkeye.
 

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Hmmm? Hard to say. Egg or chicken first type of sitch.

Because you have NOT gutted the car yet I like yer idea of putting the frame rails in while the car is still structurally sound and sitting like it should.

How much does the "Competition Engineering weld in sub-frame connectors" interact with the original floor? I dont think much? Maybe on the forward section of the floor, next to the seats
?

I have some weld in frame connectors and they only pop through the floor up front, around the front seats.

If they are the same then keep the floor in place and put the rails in THEN cut the floor out and bring in a new floor.

Dunno? Just thinking.... JR
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The front of the subframe connectors fit over the front subframe extensions, if that's what they are called. The rear fits over the front leaf spring pocket. Then you have to cut a slot in the lowest portion of the floor for the connector to fit in. Lastly, they are welded to the bottom of the floor. The instructions say that you have to use the formed rear frame rails with these connectors, so that the leaf springs can be offset to the inboard of the car. Hawkeye.
 

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BOTH NOVANUTCASE & 66 BADBOY'S THEORY'S ON PLAN OF ATTACK, BOTH MAKE SENSE, POST A PIC AND WE CAN TELL WHAT TO DO FIRST!
I'M LEANIN' TOWARDS FLOORS, BUT IF THEY ARE BOTH SUPERSHOT, WE'LL HAVE TO SEE :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
After some thought I think that I'm going to "test fit" the sfc's with the old floor in first. Then I will replace the floor and install the sfc's. I still need to figure out if I'm going remove the factory rear frame rails and install the new CE rails or install them inboard of the factory rails. I'm leaning towards installing them inboard, because some racing diseases require the factory frame rails to remain unaltered. I don't plan on competing too much with this car, but it's nice to have options later. Hawkeye
 
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