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Discussion Starter · #782 ·
Had a little time today... Adjustable VA canister was all out of wack.. Cranked almost all the way advanced. :eek: So I got it right about in the middle.

Then adjusted the initial advance to 14 degrees. When I reconnected the VA it went up 18 degrees (off the timing scale). So I guess that means 32 degrees at idle. Distributor is supposed to have 20 degrees mechanical advance.

Anyway took it for a 5 mile ride and it ran pretty nice--much better than it had.

That's as far as I got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #784 ·
Sounds like progress. Your timing light should have a dial back feature that will allow you to read the timing on the light with the mark on the engine at 0.
Yes I have the one I bought from you! Seems to work great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #785 · (Edited)
I have been having trouble with valve train noise for a while... Well a couple weeks ago I adjusted them again with the engine running. Not only did it make the usual big mess but I realized I couldn't really hear well enough to tell when I was at zero lash and was kind of guessing. As it turns out several of the rocker nuts were also a little messed up and turning harder than they should causing me to get false readings. So just for a refresher I checked with my local machine shop for the right procedure to adjust w/o engine running, Got some new rocker nuts, got a remote starter switch and then adjusted. Almost all were too loose. Sounds great now finally. Running great! I will never adjust with engine running again.

I also replaced the grommet and vacuum check valve on my brake booster which were leaking.

Another problem that came up on a recent trip is the speedometer started bouncing. It's electric Glo-Shift Speedometer. I have never gotten the memory to work for the lighting color or the trip meters but the speedometer has always worked good as has the tach. So I was considering new gauges and a build a dash setup like Miles and his son have in their Nova. But today I took it out for a ride and speedometer works perfect! :confused:

Does anyone have any idea why it would bounce one day and be fine a week later?

Took a couple pictures too...







 

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nice lookin ride you have there. i used to have a car that had those style wheels, i still have one trim ring an a center cap. is that one of those GPS speedometers? if so was you driving were there was heavy over head trees blocking the signals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #787 ·
Thanks-- Actually the transmission is out of a 2004 Mustang GT... It has a sender in the transmission...and is hard wired to the speedometer... I wonder if there could have been some kind of electronic interference? Thanks for that thought!
 

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Discussion Starter · #788 ·
Just got back from another 200 mile trip. Speedometer worked perfectly... No idea why it started bouncing but it's fine now so I will stay with my gauges for now. Car ran great and rocker noise stayed at a minimum. I am going to readjust 1 more time because of a slight tap...one on either bank. I think I can get it better.



I also discovered that choking open the heater plenum half open (above) last winter when I had heater apart did get me a little more dash vent flow and defroster flow but it also cools down the heat with outside air. On the trip it was cold outside so rather than heat we had "cool" air... But at least it wasn't "freezing" air. I barely drive it in the winter so I am going to leave it as is.

Project for this winter will be to refurbish non-AC kick panels with vents so next summer I have good air flow from the kick panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #789 · (Edited)
Brake Refresh

One thing I haven't touched in the last 8 years is the brakes. The previous owner had gotten them in decent condition...replaced some components including (I think) rotors, pads, shoes, master cylinder and at least 1 front hose. They have worked decently but the right front tends to lock up on a hard stop. I've also noticed it seems to drag when just creeping in the driveway...it will stop by itself without brakes even though adjusted correctly and parking brake isn't hanging up. Maybe the 40 year old springs in the rear brakes are weak??

So I figured I would just redo much of it and be sure of where I'm at. I have in the past replaced the master cylinder (again), the proportioning valve and the rear hose. But I just got a shipment from Rock Auto and will be replacing the calipers,pads, hoses, inner and outer wheel bearings (maybe races too) up front and all the springs, wheel cylinders and hardware on back brakes. I'm thinking the rotors and drums are ok and probably the shoes. They will be turned/replaced if necessary. I hope to do this next week. We will see. Hope everyone had a nice Christmas and has a great new year!

 

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Discussion Starter · #790 ·
I replaced calipers, pads and front hoses yesterday. It went pretty smoothly. Brakes seem to work better so far . Should get a little better still after more break in. In the interest of time I elected not to replace bearings at this time but will have them for later. Rotors are good.I painted calipers red with dupli color caliper paint... have heard good things about it. We'll see. Also because of time constraints I put off work on back brakes.

 

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Discussion Starter · #791 · (Edited)
I had originally put 3.42 gears in when I had my Saginaw 4 spd because it was the best compromise between acceleration and decent highway rpms. But since I put in the 5 speed I felt that lower rear gears would help me get a little more use out of my 5th gear overdrive. So my latest addition is a set of 3.73 rear gears. It was a great move and works really well with the gearing in the transmission! :yes:

I was concerned that with my 3.38 first gear the 3.73 rear would be too low-- but not at all. It's fine in first gear and winds up better in every other gear. I can comfortably use the overdrive now at 55-60 mph.

Many of the Mustang Cobras and GTs they put my transmission in came with 3.73 rears so it all works very well--especially since my rear tires are about 1 1/4" bigger around that the tires that came on the Mustangs.

Next on the agenda is to finish freshening up my rear brake hardware, Some minor valve train adjustments and re-furbish and install the kick panels I got that have the vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #792 ·
Had the Phoenix on the first long ride with the new gears--about 225 miles... Works really well--better in every gear. Definitely works well in OD at 55. I also was able to pull a long steep mountain back in the sticks in OD at 65 or 70. I was impressed.

I also found that the new gears make it much easier to spin the tires :rolleyes: Leaving my brother's, I punched it in first and when I hit second it was going sideways and put down about 10 ft rubber before I regained my sanity and backed off. :D It would go sideways a little with the 3.42s but not like this.

On this trip, my speedometer started bouncing around again... It must be a loose wire.. although I thought I had soldered and shrink tubed the wiring on the speedometer.. Need to investigate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #794 ·
Kim sounds like you are getting it dialed in really well and having fun with it. :thumbsup:
Yes Philip, it's great to just enjoy it! It's been running really well and these new gears just make everything work together that much better. As always still a lot of little stuff to do. Hope all is well with you all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #795 · (Edited)
I finally got to finish my last wheel on my brake refresh. I replaced wheel cylinder, springs and adjuster. No noticeable change in stopping power (as expected) but good to know all the parts are fresh.

I've been enjoying driving the Phoenix more this summer. It is running better than it ever has. The only thing is when cruising on the highway after it gets good and warm, I've been getting a little pinging when I blip the gas a little when cruising on the highway. Timing has been about 11 degrees advanced so today I reset back to 9 degrees advanced. The stock L-82 setting was at 8 degrees... but my cam is different and no smog stuff maybe 9 is the magic number. Still runs great but will wait and see how that works in the long run.

My wheels are 15X7". The widest tires I can put on are 10" which are 255/60-15. Still the REAR tires seem to get lost in these big 4th gen wheel wells. So instead of buying new 8" wheels, I bought a set of 1/4" spacers to widen the rear tires out. I will have more pictures later. But it makes a subtle but nice difference. Pictures below...











With the spacer behind the rear wheels there is still about 7/16" thread. I torqued the wheels 80-90 lbs so I think it should all be fine. Still plenty of clearance to wheel well. Got the spacers for about $12 off Auto Zone clearance shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #798 ·
You shouldn't have any issues running a 275/60 15 on a 7" wheel. I've been doing for years on mine.



Kev
Yes I had thought about that but it would basically change my final gearing and also the stance of the car as well. I'm really happy with what I have in those respects.

I must say that yours is also great...the wheels, tires and setup under the car make it look great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #800 ·
Did a little sprucing up under the hood today. Replaced my original alternator bracket with a chrome one. Also moved the negative battery cable from the alt. bracket to the block--tucked down under. Looks nicer and neater for sure. The fit on the bracket wasn't the best but took a little bending and grinding but should work fine. Here are a few pictures...
BEFORE

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AFTER

397809


397810


Hope to get some electrical issues with my speedometer not working and the lights for speedometer and tach not working fixed soon. Also hope to finally get my vented kick panels re-done and installed this winter.
 

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