[jarhead64]

Can't figure this out - 63 Nova, 350/T350; starts fine, runs fine. When I turn the ignition from the run position to off, the starter engages for a split second.

I replaced the ignition switch, rewired the engine harness down to the starter. I have it wire with the purple/solenoid wire to the S post; a non-resistor wire from the ignition switch and a jumper to the (+) coil terminal from the (R) terminal. I have an Accel Street Billet that needs +12 volts. I could probably eliminate the wires to the (R) terminal at the solenoid and go directly to the (+) side of the coil but don't think that's the problem. Already replaced the starter and solenoid thinking that the solenoid could be bridged internally.

Any idea why I'm triggering to solenoid circuit when I turn the ignition off?

 

[patman]

Dunno if this is related to the problem, but if you're not running points...you don't need the booster wire from the R terminal to the + coil.

Purple to S terminal...ignition switch to + coil should be all you need.

 

[jarhead64]

Thanks Patman - I'll give that a try tomorrow.

 

[voodoochikin04]

even with points, i never had a wire coming from the starter to the coil... ???? gotta look at it this way.. during some point of your movement from ign to off positions, the batt wire and purple wire are getting connection.. thats the only thing it can be..

 

[jarhead64]

Voodoo - that's what I figured but where. The wire from the starter to the coil provides 12v to the coil at start up, when you release the key the 12v connection stops and the coil is fed by the resistor wire with 8-9 volts.

I fixed the problem by rewiring the engine harness and some of the dash harness. Didn't find anything wrong but problem solved???????

Thanks all for the help.

 

[tnblkc230wz]

Pull the ignition switch out and put power to the battery post. Connect a test light to the starter circuit and ground. Turn the key and see if lights up. It could be a defective switch. A cheap ohmmeter will not work because it will not register fast enough.

If the switch is good, put a voltmeter on each lead in the ignition switch plug and make sure the only power comming in is from the battery circuit. You could have power feeding back through ignition or accessory circuit.

The starter circuit on these old cars is pretty simple

 

[jarhead64]

Thanks for that suggestion, I changed switches 3 times, after market and nos with the same luck. That's when I put a rebuilt engine harness in, still had the problem. Figured it had to be in the dash harness to along with changing over to digital gauges, I rewired the ignition and hot circuits in the dash harness, problem solved.

 

[Plowman]

Could be feed back from Alt,would need a diode in white or blue wire. Paul

 

[jarhead64]

Thanks Plowman - when I added the digital gauges I took the time to make sure everything was wired correctly under the dash and eliminated the extra wire in the engine harness that I don't use i.e. original oil pressure and temp wires. Everything works great now. Don't really know what it was but your right about the feedback. Somewhere along the line I was getting 12v to the solenoid when I shut the engine off.