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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking about farming out the welding task on hand. I'v already gotten a couple of prices but not sure what a good price should be. I have all new sheetmetal and just want it welded on as it would move Me along a little faster on finishing it up and maybe driving it someday. This is what I need welded on.

1) Both door skins
2) Full quarters with sail panels
3) inner and outer wheel wells
4) New one piece trunk floor. All cut out, new one in,Just not welded in
5) Tail panel with supports
6 Rear deck filler panel

All i'm looking for is a price on welding, No bondo work

What do you guys, girls, think would be a fair price and how long should it take to complete the job????

Thanks for the input.

Steve
 

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72 Frame off, bare metal resto-mod. 383, TH350, Eaton Posi, Complete new suspension, disk brakes
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More than meets the eye

When you say you just want the new metal welded on, it's kind of an open question.

First, is the old metal still in place? If so, then there are a whole bunch more steps involved to support the shell, remove the old metal and fit the new pieces. All is labor intensive and a bit unpredictable until everything is apart.

Are you planning to do the fitting and having someone do just the welding itself? If so, it's not a straight process, pieces are installed, then there's some messing around then another piece, then messing with that and fitting the next piece, repeat, repeat, repeat

Are you going to do spot welds on a flange or butt weld? Or a combination. It may make a difference to the welder.

I'm not sure what the hourly labor rate is in your area, but ask the shop or welder. Then look at how many hours of work they are planning. Those elements can tell you a lot about the estimate. For example if you were to go in with a banged up newer car, the estimate would show a values for the parts, by part, materials, disposal fees and a labor section and it should be by segment, (remove rear bumper .8 hours, install taillight .2 hours, etc). Then in the calculation will be the shop rate. Shop rates are calculated by adding up the pay for the tech, the cost of benefits, management, building, business taxes, profit, etc. The time assigned to each job is based on a flat rate standard for an experienced technician, not direct time actually spent on the job. Most shops expect the techs to turn in 2 hours estimate time for every hour actually worked.

You may want to work your network of friends or local gearheads to have a good hobby person do it in your garage. Get your own wirefeed 120 volt welder that works with gas for 2 to as much as you want to spend, rent a bottle of gas, about $75 for the gas and $20 a month to rent the bottle and have the person come over as you have things ready.

Like I said, it's not a simple answer. If you have any questions, PM me. I did my own with my son as the welder. I ended up learning how to do some of the simple stuff welding along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
welding

Pete, Yes the metal is on the car. I have a new millermatic 140 and can weld just fine. Thought it may be faster if I could get someone to line it all up and weld on. Two places gave me a price around $3000 and one other was $75 an hour. He said three to four days. Just a thought:rolleyes:

Steve
 

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72 Frame off, bare metal resto-mod. 383, TH350, Eaton Posi, Complete new suspension, disk brakes
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Don't worry about fast

If you have the skills, (this meant to be funny) why pay a for to screw it up when you can do it yourself? If you are looking for the shop to act as a wing man and get the metal right, you have a 50/50 chance depending on the skill of the welder. Either way, buy the time you are done filling and sanding, you will know every point you are not happy about. That's one you can't get away from. Personally, I do the welding and have the fill & sand done by a shop. but I'm too cheap for that too.
 
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