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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I know, I should probably just go to the PPG store and ask all my questions, but the 2 times I was their and asked questions, I recieved less then friendly "advise".

So, what are you all's thoughts concerning these questions:

I plan on ordering DCC – 81500 “YY” Butternut Yellow. (as long as it is still available?!?!)

1. How long is the DCC good for in the can, if I don’t open it?
2. How long is the Reducer and hardener, if they are not open either?
3. Once they are opened and then resealed, How long are each good for?
4. I was told to buy either K36 or K38 Build Up Primer and wanted to know the difference between the two?
5. What is the differences between the Reducers DCX61, DU5 and DU6?
6. What should be used as a Sealer?
7. Can the Sealer be mixed with the DPLF Epoxy Primer?
8. What are the differences in all the DCU Clear coats and will or can I use/need one with the DCC?!
9. What dewaxer or cleaner should I purchase?

Tentatively, I plan on this:
- 2 Gallons of DCC (81500 - Butternut Yellow)
- 1 Gallon of DCC (????? - Gloss Black)
- ?? amount of DT860/870 reducer
- ?? amount of DCX61/DU5/DU6 Hardener

- ?? amount of DP48LF Epoxy Primer (white)
- ?? amount of DP90LF Epoxy Primer (black)
- ?? amount of Catalyst

- ?? qts of K36/K38 Sealer

Thanks
Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I have the Tech Sheets already and have used DCC once before, haven't used sealers, washes, clears and didn't realize all the combo's and varities that people are using.

Thanks for posting the link though, it is full of good info.

Anyone else have specific PPG knowledge that can answer my Q's?

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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Just a quick response before work, I may have time later to look over your post more.

I wouldn't buy DCC then clear over it. You can, but it would be much better to use a base such as DBC or DBU if you plan to clear.
DCC is a single stage and is going to be slower drying and harder to apply than DBC/DBU.
DPLF epoxy does not make a great sealer, I have used K36 mixed as a sealer and 3025 sealer.
Use DX330 for cleaning/degreasing.
 

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I don't know the opened and unopened shelf lives for the products. With reducers, I have had some around for years opened (with cap on) without any problems. I usually use hardeners up fast enough it's not a concern but I was told if it is seedy (chunky) or if you look in the can and can't see the bottom then it is bad.
K36 & K38 are similar, K36 can be tinted but has a slower dry time than K38.
I have not used K38.
The hardeners DCX61, DU5, DU6 are expalined somewhat in the Psheets.
I only use DCX61. I do know that some of the hardeners can be used without a flex additive for plastic parts. The Psheet will say that.
I would use K36 mixed as a sealer. It has a seperate Psheet as a sealer than the one as a surfacer. You could also use 3025, but you have less products to buy if you use K36 for two things. Epoxy makes a poor sealer.
You do not mix sealer and epoxy, no reason to anyway. Epoxy is for bare metal, sealer is for right before paint.
I answered 8 & 9 before.
If you do the math using the mix ratios from the Psheets you can figure how much hardener and reducer you need for a given amount of paint, clear or hardener.
 

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NCS is a very good sealer, if you are spraying it, I would advise against using the white because I have problems spraying it in my booth because the lighting isnt 100%. It is also available in black and gray. Depending on your base coat, the sealer may make it a darker color if you were to use the black.Like tech nova says, dont use the dcc. I have a ton of the dbc that is already mixed with the reducer in the can, and there is no problem with shelf life so far, even with half the can used up.
 

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My 2 cents is to find a jobber that is more friendly and willing to help you even if it's not ppg. Having someone local who can help you is invaluable. Jobbers who treat walk in customers poorly irritates the heck out of me.:mad:
 

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Cost of Paint and Supplies

Schonyenko2 said:
My 2 cents is to find a jobber that is more friendly and willing to help you even if it's not ppg. Having someone local who can help you is invaluable. Jobbers who treat walk in customers poorly irritates the heck out of me.:mad:
I totally agree, if the counter person has a bad attitude or is not real helpful find another supplier, or another store that handles PPG. Not a big difference in any of the major brands, or thier prices. The price of this stuff is not cheap, and when your laying down your hard earned cash, they should be a little more helpful and appreciative to the business you gave them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for your replies. I'll have to read through them and try to give you all a "play by play" as to how and in what order I plan on and see if you all can give any additional pointers.

As a quick reply...
- NOVATECH said don't use a Clear with the DCC and EVLDOER said don't use it at all. Now I have read mixed readings about using DCC w/Clear, but the people that say don't use a clear with DCC seem more knowledgeble (not a reflection of thios thread, but from other boards) and was prolly going to not use the clear, because of that reason. But, EVLDOER, why would you not even use it?

- I was choosing the White DPLF because the Base Coat I am going with is a Light Yellow (like a PrimeRose Yellow or a Butternut Yellow, but Lighter/Whiter in color, so the White seemed to be the "best" choice.). Am I wrong in my thinking?!

- Yes, I have thought I about some of the other brands of Paint, but it jusy seems more people have used and/or are more willing to help and give advise about the products.

I'll have to read through this thread later and think about the details.

Thanks again all !!!

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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TechNova, why do you say epoxy is a poor sealer? It has been several years since I sold PPG products, but when I did sell their products, they recommended their DP line of epoxy primers as a sealer.

Brent, when I left the paint store, PPG Concept products where brand new, so I didn't get a chance to learn much about them. As I recall though, PPG did state that DCC single stage could be clearcoated if so desired, or you could use the DCU basecoat. I don't see any reason why the color you want would not be available, especially since you have a formula number for it. Since the color you have chosen is a solid color, the difficulty in spraying will be low for any of the products you chose. Concept was supposed to be more forgiving when spraying metallics and pearls than Deltron DBU. As far as shelf life goes, it all depends on how much air is in the paint can. Air can cause a skin to form on the top of the paint. I don't know if Concept product are prone to this like other types of paint are. The biggest problems are with hardeners that have had the seat broken. Most paint manufacturers recommend that the hardener be used in a very short time period after it has been opened, but, I have had hardener that had been opened, and was still good for quite while. As TechNova said, look in the can before you use it.

Randy (I think that is all I can remember!):)
 

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My convertible is shot with DCC Concept single stage, lite yellow, over DP48 white, reduced as a sealer. It's been on the car since '98. Except for some road rash from the 50k miles it's seen there are no problems with it. The DCC has never been waxed, just glazed. The shine has held up perfectly. I just checked my P sheet for DPLF, and the same reduction with DT is still recommended to shoot it as a sealer. I did not clear coat the DCC. Why spend the extra bucks? Hope that helps.

Rich
 

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72GreenRally said:
TechNova, why do you say epoxy is a poor sealer? It has been several years since I sold PPG products, but when I did sell their products, they recommended their DP line of epoxy primers as a sealer.
Randy
We have experienced some redos when using DPLF as a sealer. The paint tech from our jobber has also strongly encouraged shops not to use it as a sealer based on failures he has seen. This is not your normal jobber employee, he lives and breathes (so to speak) paint and is in shops all day every day so I really listen to his comments.
DPLF is great as a primer but it is a little dated as a sealer. Some of the things we use under and over it have changed in the last few years and it hasn't kept up. It seems like the problems came when it became DPLF instead of DP.
It comes back to making one product do more than one task, resulting in one or both of the tasks being slightly less than prefect. Similar can be said for K36, which I actually like better as a sealer than as a primer, we have seen some shrinkage as a primer, occasionally.

BTHOMAS, DCC is a little harder to spray than DBC base would be. It is much harder to spray if you are dealing with a metallic. It is also slower drying which means you are more likely to get runs and will get more dirt in it.
As evldoer posted, you can mix DBC and leave it in the can and it won't get hard. This way you can keep any left overs to use later which saves you $$$.
 

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To some degree that is true. However, the sealer provides a barrier between the paint and the primer, and it provides a uniform color and surface for the paint. If you ever get bleed-through from a primer, you will believe in sealer.

Randy (it's just insurance);)
 

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PPG Deltron Paints

Anyone know the mixing ratio's for this paint, I,m laying a base Alpine white over PPG primer, paint shop said not to add hardener to base coat, yet tin say's to
 
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