[Rroxon7]

I picked up a rebuilt control valve at the Turlock swap meet a few weeks ago for my 66...I was planing on having the guys do it that did my alienment...The guy that did the alienment was the one that told me the pull to the right was because of the valve seals going bad.....I was just wondering what kind of job it was to change it myself ? As far as adjustments go I'm not sure if there is any..Has anyone replaced the control valve before ??

 

[MPLS66]

i did mine as follows . install valve /install lines /fill pump make sure you put lines on correctly attach shaft to bracket / start car pump will extend shaft adjust control valve GO SLOW TURNIG VALVE RIGHT TO LEFT /adjust either way till wheels run straight . you should also bleed out pumpand lines proir to adjusting pump .fyi most rebuilding shops preset close to center the pump shaft . if you need instructionfurther contact me with pm and i will dig up instruction i receive with my unit good luck

 

[Greg McMillan]

control valve needs adjustment

The control valve needs adjustment. I bought a new one for my 65 and have a strong pull to the right as well. Motors Manual lists this adjustment procedure:

1. Disconnect cylinder rod from frame bracket
2. With front wheels off the ground, start the engine. One of the two conditions will exist:
a. If piston rod remains retracted, turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the rod begins to move out.Then turn the nut counterclock-wise until the rod just begins to move in. Now turn the nut clock-wise to exactly one half the rotation needed to change the direction of shaft movement.
b. If the rod extends upon starting the pump, move the nut counter- clockwise until the rod begins to retract, then clockwise until the rod begins to move out again. Now turn the rod to exactly on half the rotation needed to change the direction of the shaft movement.

Do not turn the nut back and forth more than is absolutely necessary to balance the valve.

This worked like a champ and solved my pull problem.

 

[Rroxon7]

Thanks. guy's ...I don't know if I trust myself to mess with it...I've done just about everything else solo...But it just seems a little easier to pay someone a few bucks to get it done right ..If I remember right..I think he was going to charge me $60....

 

[novajoe]

Come 'on you can do it !!:yes::yes: patience and follow the posted directions ......

 

[Rroxon7]

Well there Novajoe.....I'm glad you have confidence in me.....I think I can..I think I can............

 

[Shane65]

Here's how to rebuild the valve. This also gives you some pictures to let you know what your dealing with. Ignore that it's for Corvette.......it's the same as the Nova.

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/technical-articles/c2/131-corvette-power-steering-rebuild.html

Item 20 tells about balancing the system. It's not difficult to do once you read through the description. Here's the link on item 20:

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/ima...ing/power_steering/steering-control-valve.htm

Once you've done it, I'm sure you'll agree it's not very hard to do.

 

[DShindell]

Has anyone bought from this guy on eBay before? I am replacing my 62 manual steering with some donor pieces from a 65 power steering setup and I want to replace the cylinder and control valve.

Anyone have experience with this seller or know of a better parts source?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/63-6...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1205|65:12|39:1|240:1318

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Rroxon7]

Has anyone bought from this guy on eBay before? I am replacing my 62 manual steering with some donor pieces from a 65 power steering setup and I want to replace the cylinder and control valve.

Anyone have experience with this seller or know of a better parts source?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/63-6...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1205|65:12|39:1|240:1318

Thanks,
Dan

I've heard of them before, but never purchased anything...I got my control valve for $90 from this guy.....CJ [email protected] him..He sells remanufactured rack & pinion, gear boxes, pumps, for power and manual....

 

[DShindell]

Thanks, Rroxon. I will send him an email. I wonder if he does the slave cylinders as well.

Dan

 

[THX138]

The most important part of this is getting the lines in the right place.As far as disconnecting the rod and THEN raising the wheels,dont understand this part.Raise the front wheels off the ground and adjust the nut until the wheels are straight,this is how I did mine,theres no reason to disconnect the rod.This system can be a pain in the aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa$$ if one part isnt right.

 

[Shane65]

I adjusted mine with the rod disconnected. There is some resistance(mostly in the idler bushing) in the movement of the steering but with the rod disconnected you get a quick accurate neutral position.

 

[soupac]

OK, I give. Where did my post go? I agreed that the rod did not have to be disconnected.

 

[65Nova4door]

Is there a procedure to prime/get air out of the system?

 

[the FLYER]

scroll through this album:
http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/ChevyII-Nova Information/Steering Gear etc Info/

 

[65Nova4door]

Thanks Flyer.

This is probably a dumb question, but is there pink power steering fluid? The fluid in my control valve and ram looks and smells a lot like ATF...

 

[the FLYER]

although actual power steering fluid has additional additives, ATF is still commonly used...

 

[65Nova4door]

I got everything back together tonight, but it seems like the pscv isn't doing anything. The power steering pump is pushing fluid through the system from what I can tell. If I loosen the hoses at the control valve (the ones from the ram to the valve) I am getting fluid there.

I tried turning the adjustment nut 1/2 turn counter clockwise. nothing happened. then I returned it to its original position, then turned it 1/2 turn clockwise. still nothing.

Anyone have any ideas? Is it possible I have the hoses as the control valve crossed or is the valve just bad?

 

[the FLYER]

the album i posted has images showing hose routing/connections... did you look that far?

 

[65Nova4door]

the album i posted has images showing hose routing/connections... did you look that far?

I did, but the guy that pulled everything apart told me that the hose he marked with tape (back hose) was supposed to go to the top hole. I had also seen a post from a forum member (Rroxon7 maybe?) that said the same. The hoses also 'wanted' to go to these spots (due to bends in hard line and how they're attached to the ram), if that makes sense.

I will try switching them.