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Whats up guys? Wow, where to begin. I was installing a new harmonic balancer on my 350 in my nova and I think I might have stripped the threads. I heated up the balancer per instructions by summit placed it on the crank and used the balancer bolt with washer to slowly and evenly press it back on then all of a sudden the bolt threads gave way and I could no longer tighten the bolt it just lay in the crank hole. Thinking I was smart I got a little longer bolt placed it on and managed to get it snug. Not near to the 65 lbs of torque I've read needed to apply it properly. A little while later I noticed that it was leaking oil from the timing cover bushing hole. I'm assuming I pushed the bushing through the cover causing a leak. At this point to do things properly I'm lead to believe 1. I need a new crankshaft with fresh threads (I tried to retap the hole and had no luck) and 2. I need a new timing cover bushing.

This is where the pros help comes in. What steps do I need to take to remedy this problem correctly. Not a temp fix like JB weld and side of hopes and dreams that I haven't seriously damaged a major internal of my motor. What do I need to do to feel I can confidently drive the car with out the balancer flying off or messing up my main bearings or anything else that might be affected.

If I do need to replace the crank, what tool/tools will I need. Thanks in advance for all of your help. If you need any further information to help me narrow down my options I will be more than happy to provide any other bits of information that I can. Again, thank you.
 

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It's hard to believe the instructions would have told you to use the crank bolt to install the damper. Spend the money on a good drill bit and tap as previously posted. Take your time with the tap. Work it back and forth and use cutting oil. You should be able to rent the tool from Auto Zone to re-install the damper.
 

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had to do this to mine in a few months ago. Use the correct tool. You'll kick yourself like I did when it goes on so easy!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's hard to believe the instructions would have told you to use the crank bolt to install the damper. Spend the money on a good drill bit and tap as previously posted. Take your time with the tap. Work it back and forth and use cutting oil. You should be able to rent the tool from Auto Zone to re-install the damper.
You're right the instructions didn't say to use the bolt they said if you don't have an installer to heat it in the oven and it should slide right on. I did however call napa autoparts and they only had installers to buy for $70 (at the store that was an hour away) and when I asked schucks about them they made me sound like an idiot cause they never heard of one before.

At this point in regards to the tapping resolution I'm assuming that is something a machine shop would be able to handle better than myself?
 

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use lots of cutting oil on the tap ..you DONOT want to break it off in the hole,as its hardened and you cant drill it out. slow and easy,youll be fine.
 

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I've got a tool just like this. It works better than any other tool I've ever owned including the Matco and Snap-on puller/installers!!


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4531/?rtype=10

Get the tap and do it yourself. It's EASY!!
On the tap itself, it usually says what drill size to use.

Just take your time.

Be sure and check the front seal. You're supposed to put a SMALL amount of lube of some sort (chassis grease or Vasoline) on the damper hub to allow it to slide into the seal easier and minimize the chance of tearing the lip of the seal.
 

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I feel sorry for you.

Installing a new balancer is often a real pain. In my experience if you run into a crank snout that is on the high side and a balancer that is on the tight side its a very tight fit and may even possibly break the balancer, usually cracking in the key way.
I try and measure the crank and balancer and sometimes hone the balancer for the proper fit. BHJ may have the specs online, Im not sure

I usually heat the balancer and use a hydraulic installer remover, because the crank is usually out of the block, and its still a pain.

If you drill your crank and tap it to 1/2 I would highly recommend that you follow all of the good advice that you have received here and I would also get a high quality tap, and I usually use 2 a starting tap and a bottoming tap.


I do use Heli-Colis most of the time and return it to 7/16 but I usually install 2 coils so there is about the the same amount of thread engagement.

I would also look your balancer over carefully especially the key way.


Good luck

Jeff
 
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