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Discussion Starter #1
I realize some people have used Por-15 and now I read about the Master Series stuff. I've wire brushed most of the rear of my car and got the flaky chunky pieces removed as well as some of the surface rust. I now have a mixture of some old original dull paint, places with bare metal, seam sealer, and some reddish stuff that Im pretty sure was old primer. Can I apply either of those "paints" over all these places or do I need to get a better consistency? I will be using some of the prep chemicals as is mentioned on the Por website and make sure all the dust is up. Input please.........almost forgot, how strong does this stuff bond? some areas are also thin from rust. Will either actually strenghten the metal so I dont need to worry about rust through?
 

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POR-15 is very good .It adheres best to sound rust or sand blasted surfaces .Make sure your surfaces are free of oils .Wash with dish soap and water then air dry with compressed air .Brush on POR if you can .If you spray it you MUST wear a respirator .And cover everything that you don't want the POR on .If you spray it outside have no other cars around for it sticks and travels like magic .Don't ask how I know this .Before the POR dries completely (finger drag) cover with the finish you want on there permanently .If you let POR dry, nothing will stick to it unless you sand,and it sands like crap .Great on inner panels,For example,take a trunk lid and flip it upside down pour in some POR and tilt the lid side to side until inner skin is completely coated then hang and let excess drain .Can be messy,don't let it dry on your skin .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so I'll have to strip

all the old paint off? Thats going to take some time. The wire wheel has actually been working fairly quickly though. Im guessing the coarseness after being "wheeled" will make a good surface to adhere to?
 

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Both have their uses so I won't get into which is better:)

Por likes a good mechanical bond like rust (non flaky) and is really
a hard substance and is non uv friendly so anything that see's sunlight
needs to be painted. Under cars, engine bays etc is fine. To much sanding
with finer grades of sandpaper will hurt the adhesion of por and it will
come off in sheets so you must pay attention to their instructions.

Master Series is a highly filled primer which will need a topcoat. It too
will adhere to rust but is better to be light rust or blasted. If you scratch
it the rust that would appear will only be at that scratch. It is moisture
cured which once cured will allow no air to penetrate it. You can leave
some paint on as long as its on good.

Neither is good for your health so take the proper safety measures.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
a little more info before I apply..........

Ive "wheeled down" a lot of the area but dont have the Metal Ready that Por 15 is all about saying you NEED. Will my Por 15 adhere well to bare metal that has simply been wheeled down to the metal and wiped free of contaminates? I'll be overcoating with their chassis black and this will be all interior right now (floors).
Sorry, Im nervous about wasting this stuff.
 

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Ive "wheeled down" a lot of the area but dont have the Metal Ready that Por 15 is all about saying you NEED. Will my Por 15 adhere well to bare metal that has simply been wheeled down to the metal and wiped free of contaminates? I'll be overcoating with their chassis black and this will be all interior right now (floors).
Sorry, Im nervous about wasting this stuff.
I've used Jasco Metal Etch before in place of metal ready. It basically does the same thing and will etch the bare steel. I have also used POR 15 w/o any metal etch or metal ready and did just fine. To be safe, go get some metal etch at OSH or ACE...
 

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I've used POR on a number of things, including the entire underside of my car. You can paint over it once it's cured if done right. What I did with mine (although I had it on a rotisserie so it made it easier to do) was I got it right down to the metal and then I used both POR products, the Marine Clean and the Metal Ready. Once the etching has time to work, it will start to rust it giving it something to bite into. Like it's already been said, brushing it on is the easiest way to go. If you spray it, it will get all over, you need to thin it, etc. I put on a couple coats of the POR 15 and when it was dry, I used a red scotch brite pad to scuff the entire surface up. I then put on POR's Tie Coat Primer, also a brush on application. http://www.por15.com/TIE-COAT-PRIMER/productinfo/TCG/ Once that stuff is on, you can put whatever you want on top. I ended up using Raptor bed liner on mine. If it's going to be in the sun at all, you'll want to use one of the top coats, like the chassis black http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK/productinfo/CHG/ The top coats are not sensitive to UV rays so they will not start to fade and peel like the POR will by itself. You do not need the primer if you are going to put one of the POR products top coats on. You only need the primer if you are coating it quite a while after the fact or you want to use another company's product. Hope this helps.
 
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