Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 85 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. I thought I would post some updates on my 64 mordoor as i have been working on it a lot lately.
Several people on here have expressed an interest in what late model seats would fit in a 1stgen. especially the rear seat. I believe I have found a soultion.
While there are stock type interior kits avaliable from aftermarket sources, some may want to go a different route with an interior. This economy lately has hit us hard and some of us, myself included, simply cannot afford a new reproduction interior as they run between $800- $1200 plus shipping costs for just about everything.
Some of us have to work with what we have and what is available locally.
I went the traditional route and went to my local salvage yard to find somthing more affordable to substitute with.
After taking interior measurements. I went to the U-pull-it and started walking, measuring and looking. The backseat is where I started and went from that point.
What I found that works pretty darn good is the interiors out of late 1990's Dodge Intrepids and Chrysler Concordes.
The cars I got all my interior parts from were a 97 Intrepid and 2000 Concorde. I used as many late model parts as I could.
Not just the seats. but the console ( neon), package tray, carpet, seatbelts, windlace, speakers, thrid brake light ( 89 cavalier) and door weather stripping. I also made my own kick panels, door panels and headliner from materials bought at local fabric and hardware stores.

Heres some fitment in progress pics I previewed in other threads.

Concorde back seat.
[/IMG]

[/IMG]

Concorde front bucket seats
Note the way the front mount tabs bend down at a 90 degree angle. Then if you look carfully, you can see how the tracks sit on the floor and how that front down turned tab sits on the front floor drop. bend this tab out some to about a 45 dregree angle and it will sit flush with the floor drop.
The drivers side floor drop is shaped differently in the inside next to the trans tunnel. i had to weld in a metal tab with a nut in this spot to give the inside track sothing to bolt to in the front. You can see this tab in a later pic of the bare floor.
[/IMG]

[/IMG]

Here are some other interior items I used.

Console from a late 1990's Dodge Neon
[/IMG]

Intrepid rear package tray. Note that I trimed it down to fit the Nova. Also it has humps made into it for shoulder harness seatbelts which I used as well.
[/IMG]

I used the Intrepid carpet and related jute padding. The carpet has a thick sound deadener made into it and has some weight to it. Believe it or not, this actually fit right in very well after a little use of the heat gun and some minor trimming. Almost like it was made for it! But I did have to clean, scrub, and thouroughly wash it real good as it was quite dirty.
[/IMG]


I've got more pics on the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
how close are those front seats to the origional mounting holes? and could you take some pictures of the rear shoulder harness assy.? What are you using for front seat belts?

btw looks like the time you have in has paid off in some serious savings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
how close are those front seats to the origional mounting holes? and could you take some pictures of the rear shoulder harness assy.? What are you using for front seat belts?

btw looks like the time you have in has paid off in some serious savings
The front holes are like a couple inches away from the factory holes. But I didn't want to try and use those. It would have taken more work, but probably can be done. However, you would still have to drill holes in the floor for the inside seat tracks anyway. I just let the seats fall into place. the front mount tabs on the Concorde seats are at a 90 degree bend and just need to be bent at close to a 45 degree to sit on the front seat pan drop off.

I've got pics of the rear seat belt harness ( Concorde front seat belt retractors with the rear seatbelt lap bottoms) I'm about to post.

I'm using the Intrepid front shoulder harness seat belts with the concorde bucket seats.

And Yes, I've saved a TON of money doing my complete interior this way.
I'm going to include a cost breakdown later as well to show how inexpensive this is to do.
I was shocked at how easy it was to put all this in, despite the 40 year difference in design.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, I've got more pics. I've managed to install about 90 percent of the interior already. I still have door panels, sunvisors and work to do on the console. But all the major work is done.
I am under time restrictions and had to move fast when fitting, fabricating and installing everything. so I didn't take pics of all the step by step work. Besides, I forgot to take the camera with me most of the time.
Note that I used the black windlace out of the Intrepid. It also has a weatherstrip made into it on the outside edge and provides a better and extra door to jamb seal.
The CD player radio is out of a 99 Saturn. (a previous owner had already cut up the radio opening for a DIN style radio)
The grey floor mats are some I bought to use in my sunbird I sold before I could put em in. So I used them here.
Also note the tilt steering column. It is from a 78 chevy van. I covered this install in a previous thread, if you haven't looked at it.
Heres my finished install.
Kinda' reminds me of how interiors in street rods were done in the 80's.

Front seats, console, carpet.
[/IMG]

Rear seats, seatbelts, carpet.
Note: The seat back secures using the factory Nova hooks in the support structure. The bottom left and right corners need to be secured down either by bending the wire seat frame sightly to match the nova curvatures and secure it with the Nova factory hold down tabs in the well corners or do like I did and use a hook bolt that hooks around the seat frame corners and through a hole drilled through the wheel tub corners and tighten the bolt to bring the corners down. The Concorde seat also has mounting tabs that are located in the middle and bolt down through the floor. This is also the mount point for the seatbelt latches and middle seatbelts.
[/IMG]

Front Concorde seat with Intrepid shoulder harness seatbelts. The driver side seat has the optional electric track adjusters. The seat belt is attached to the B pillar by drilling a hole in this spot and welding a nut in and then a welding a large washer over it for strength. The other end of the belt is attached to the existing factory Nova seatbelt hole. The retractor mechanism is bolted to the floor at the bottom of the B pillar. The brackets were originally straight and had to be modified by cutting them down, drilling another mount hole and bending them at a 90 degree angle to bolt down in the correct position. The retractors are bare exposed and will require that some covers be fabricated to make them more attactive. I still need to do this step.
[/IMG]

Front bucket seat mount tabs. I had to bend these slightly to match the angle of the floor drop. The rear of the tracks are just mounted straight to the floor and though the middle floor brace.
[/IMG]

Rear seat shoulder harness seatbelts. I've got a lot of thinking invested here. The shoulder belts are the front belts from the Concorde. The lap belts are the rears from the Concorde. I also have the middle 4th passenger seatbelt installed as well. Its tucked out of the way behind the seat right now.
[/IMG]

This is why I chose the Concorde rear seat over the Intrepid. I liked the fold down center armrest with storage compartment and cupholders.
[/IMG]

Heres where the rear seat bottom attaches to the floor. The bottom seat is longer (rear to front) than the stock nova seat bottom. As a result, it had a serious overhang that needed to be addressed. I had to fabricate a 4" extension out of wood to the stock floor pan drop off so that the seat could have support in the front and be bolted down like factory.
[/IMG]

Heres where the rear shoulder belt goes into the Intrepid package tray. It originally exited the front edge, but I had to move it to the top because the Concorde rear seat back is a little taller than the Intrepids.
[/IMG]

Heres the backside view of the rear shoulder belt retractors mounted behind the packagetray and seat support structure. I used the front seat retractors from the Concorde back here. The Concorde rear belt retractors mount on the sides of the rear C pillars and won't work in the Nova rear pillars. The Intrepid (front exiting) rear belt retractors mount on top of the package tray structure and are covered by the package tray board. I had no room to do this in the Nova without extensive metal structure work, so I mounted the Concorde front (top exiting) belt retractors in this fashion. The bracket base is bolted to the top of the rear inner wheel tub. The retactor bracket was originally straight. I had to bend the end of it at a 90 degree angle to get it to mount properly to the wheel tub. The other ends of the belts are attached to the bottom corners ( dog leg area) next to the seat back just like the Intrepid or concordes were. There is an existing factory hole here that I enlarged enough to weld in a nut and reenforcing washer on top of it like the ones in the B pillars.
[/IMG]

Here is the rest of the Intrepid package tray. I cut it down to fit. Then I installed speaker grilles out of an earlier model Intrepid. I also installed a thrid brake light from a 89 Cavalier 4dr sedan. I have a lot of work in this area.
[/IMG]

Here is my headliner. No one offers a repro headliner in grey cloth. So I made my own. I bought 2 yards of fabric and made this myself. I redesigned it to have "sail panels or ear muff boards" in the rear posts similar to later models.
i'm quite proud of this accomplishment here as this is my 1st attempt at a handmade liner.
NOTE: I also discovered a potential later model one piece headliner that could possibly work here. The roof measurements were very close if almost exact. The one piece headliner board out of a 89 Pontiac Grand Am ( or was it Grand prix? - I get em confused) 4 door sedan seemed like an exact match. I found one in a yard durring a visit to Knoxville but had no way of getting it home. I looked around in my area but had no luck finding a good one or one that was grey. A 89-90 Bonniville seemed to be the same as well. If someone wants to further pursue this headliner suggestion and try it out, let us know how it works!
Since auto interiors and trim were my profession, I was able to make my own to work with the factory bows.
[/IMG]

Heres another item I made myself. I bought some thin pressed board in a 4' x 8' sheet( similar to peg board but without the holes) and glued some vinyl ( clearance scrap) from the fabric store and installed some speakers leftover from my mini trucking days. I plan to build my door panels in the same manner. I also built my package tray out of this board to mount my rear speakers to. ( a previous owner cut out the entire factory packagetray support metal!)
Note the 73-87 chevy truck gas pedal.
[/IMG]

Heres a view of the Dodge Neon console. I have it mounted to the tunnel but still need to do work to it. I'm filling in the shifter hole with another cup holder tray section from a 97 Gallant. I also need to fill in the E-brake hole. Although, I have thought about getting the Neon E-brake handel and trying to move it from the dash to the floor. I even thought about moving the shifter to the floor as well by using the Neon shifter that goes with this console.
[/IMG]

You can't make it out really, but I have a small parts store aftermarket tachometer installed in the factory guage cluster. I used the plastic clock delete insert section and cut a hole in it big enough for the tach to slide into. Then installed it like it was factory!

[/IMG]

Heres another area that needs to be figured out. As you can see, the console blocks the heater outlet. I'm going to install vintage air brand ball type outlets on the left and right sides and connect them to the center heaterbox outlet. That way I'll have heat exiting into the left and right footwells.
I also thought about moving the aftermarket guages into the console front like another member here did with their Neon console. But I don't believe there would be any room once I fill it with vent duct tubes.
[/IMG]

Another shot of the rear seat. The door armrests barely clear the seatback.
[/IMG]

Thats all the pics I have right now. I've still got more work to do and I'll keep you updated.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,727 Posts
That came out pretty slick! The pattern isn't quite to my taste, but the idea and the execution are first class. That's what hot rodding is all about...

One thought though, all of the mounting points for the front seats and all of the seatbelts should be reinforced. If it's just a hole drilled in the sheetmetal with a nut and bolt, it will rip through in an accident. Take a look at the stock mounting points for the seatbelts, and you can see how the factory reinforced those areas. Something similar (thickness + size) should be done on all the new anchor points.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
One thought though, all of the mounting points for the front seats and all of the seatbelts should be reinforced. If it's just a hole drilled in the sheetmetal with a nut and bolt, it will rip through in an accident. Take a look at the stock mounting points for the seatbelts, and you can see how the factory reinforced those areas. Something similar (thickness + size) should be done on all the new anchor points.
They are. I used large 2"-2 1/2" washers with the bolts. I also welded in nuts with washer reinforcements welded on top for the belt mounts on the B posts and rear seat bottoms next to the rear door jambs. I was able to use the two outter side factory seatbelt mounts for the front belts. The inner front belt latches are made into the bucket seats on the sides.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,437 Posts
That came out pretty slick! The pattern isn't quite to my taste, but the idea and the execution are first class. That's what hot rodding is all about...
My thoughts exactly........

Having "played" with 1st. Gens. most of my life., I'm amazed at how you've not only found the new parts., but more so as how you've blended everything together to both look and function correctly......

I'd like to see the door panels done in the seat cloth material with billet handles., and the metal interior and console painted dark grey.........:yes:


WONDERFULL JOB !!!! :yes::yes::yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
My thoughts exactly........

Having "played" with 1st. Gens. most of my life., I'm amazed at how you've not only found the new parts., but more so as how you've blended everything together to both look and function correctly......

I'd like to see the door panels done in the seat cloth material with billet handles., and the metal interior and console painted dark grey.........:yes:


WONDERFULL JOB !!!! :yes::yes::yes:

Thanks. I'm doing the door panels in the same material as the kick panels. I might try to do a cloth insert to match the seats, if I can find the material.
I've thought about doing the metal sections in dark grey like you suggested. I still might. But I kinda' like the red dash. I left the metal sections red to see what it would look like "trimmed" with some color. The engine is red also and would go with the dash. I'm probably going to paint the body back in white and maybe two tone it in silver. So I'm trying to keep some color on it somewhere to breakup the neutral colors. I can't use billet handels cause then I would have to use billet elsewere in the interior to balance that element out. Billet costs money (which I don't have a lot of). I'm wanting to use 66 Impala handels.
I don't know. I'm just playing around experimenting with different stuff on it to see what I can come up with. But I am on a very tight budget and I'm having to improvise as well.
This is my soon to be daily driver. So I wanted the styling and simplicity of an older car with the comfort of a new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,150 Posts
wow, you must have got a ton of time in the scrap yard to piece that all together....

I advise against the peg board style panels as any water that enters the doors or kick panels will destroy these quick... go to your local plastic supplier (around here it's Tap Plastics) and get a sheet of ABS plastic... comes in 4x8 sheets like ply wood in various thicknesses and cost is resonable. you would only need one sheet, last time I bought it, it was like $30 a sheet...

then you can cover it in the same fashion as before w/o ever worrying about water damage....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
Please take this as the huge compliment that it is - I normally do not like these interior swaps at all, as it is mixing styles way too much, but you have done a remarkable job making this work, and I can tell you put a lot of thought into it! It probably works so well because you used all Mopar pieces so there is a style integration there as well. You did an outstanding job with this!!!!
I have to agree with the thoughts on painting the interior panels and console - I would actually match the console and metal panels exactly to the color of any vinyl on the seats (use a low gloss on the metal panels) - the red leaves it looking really unfinished and "transplanted", like you're not done yet! Frankly, my biggest suggestion would be to lose the headrests, someway, somehow! You could build plastic fillers that cover both holes, but the headrests leave it looking too "modern", and your front and rear seats would match better. With the money you've saved, and when the budget allows, I would step up to a really nice Billet Specialties or Bunick steering wheel, billet and leather, to tie everything together. Overall, this is an absolutely bitchin' Pro-Touring interior on a budget!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Heres another area that needs to be figured out. As you can see, the console blocks the heater outlet. I'm going to install vintage air brand ball type outlets on the left and right sides and connect them to the center heaterbox outlet. That way I'll have heat exiting into the left and right footwells.
Don't forget one for the rear. The console could act as the duct and give you rear heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Don't forget one for the rear. The console could act as the duct and give you rear heat.
I've actually considered that. The intrepid consoles actually have that feature. I've looked at the inner duct work in them and am kinda' brainstorming on how to use them in the Neon console. I'm still looking for a simple outlet of the rear. If, I can find one, I'll probably engeneer one in along with some small lights to turn on when the dome light and under dash lights operate. Its still up in the air what I'm going to do here.
I decided not to use the intrepid console because it is a multi piece unit and rather complicated. Plus all the ones I found were busted up and broken as they are made of a harder and more brittle plastic. Besides, I just didn't like its desgin compared to the simpler one piece Neon console. Cup holders being a big factor.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,816 Posts
niiice

Sooo your coming out to the mini nat'ls here in Nor Cal Bro !?!? lol

Project looks killler, I see why you like the red dash. It counters the greys nice & you could tie things together with some tasty pinstriping. Curious to see how you're going to finish the neon console, making want bucketseats.:D

Aloha, Ric
 
1 - 20 of 85 Posts
Top