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Discussion Starter #1
I need to figure out what size rod bearings I need.

Will plastigauge work for finding the bearing size or is it only used for clearance?

Here's a pic of the marking on another bearing if it means anything.



Here are the old bearings.

 

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Rod Bearing

Crank and rod journals are toast! Regrind crank and resize rod journals. Looks like #7 and #8 journals. Inspect oil pump and screen for chips.
 

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Are you gonna have the crank turned? its scored pretty bad. Based on how much the machine shop needs to turn it (.010, .020, .030) that is the bearing you buy. Most of the time the machine shop will supply them to you with your machined crank. If you don't have your crank and rods machined you are wasting time. The distance that car will travel without a machine shop can be measured in feet.

But to get an accurate sizing, you need a pair of calipers or bore micrometer. Calipers should get you close enough and you can pick them up anywhere. That being said if you pull the bearings off of another rod, there should be markings on the non wear side to indicate if they are standard, .010, .020, .030.

You'll also need to see what size your main bearings are too.

Platigauge is just used to determine running clearances between parts. It literally is super thin strips of a wax like material that you put between the rod journal and the bering surface, and tighten the bearing cap down. Then you remove the cap to see if the wax "Squished" or not. Then put in a different thickness and repeat.
 

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Yikes! That must have really been knocking really bad.

Like the others said, you are going to have the crank turned and the rods checked and resized, at a bare minimum. Even a new bearing on that rough journal would only last a couple of minutes.

I'll bet the other bearings are trashed too.

It's bad news, but fix it the right way, or you are wasting your time and money.

Look around, good used 350 engines are cheap, and might be cheaper than repairing yours.
 

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72 Frame off, bare metal resto-mod. 383, TH350, Eaton Posi, Complete new suspension, disk brakes
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That bearing is ugly! Now comes the ever feared question of how is everything else in the engine? Commonly used statements with my "department of finance" are " as long as I have the engine out, I should/might as well ________". Or "it's cheaper to just get a quality (heavy on the word "quality") rebuild or semi custom built than to have to put more money into this one later". Another I use is "we really should upgrade this to a newer technology. I can get a setup out of a new model wreck and get the fuel economy of a newer car in the process for when we do a road trip". That one will take the follow up of "these cars are so old the wrecking yard engines would still need to be rebuilt".
Actually, each of those should be researched as options. If the engine you have is the original and you are not modifying the body, you have the option of keeping it a "numbers matching" car. Even if you dump in a different engine, having the old one around could increase the value to somebody when and if you ever sell it. Chances are that at least the valves have been worked over and updated seats installed for unleaded fuel. If not, that's a gotta be done unless there's some magic juice out there for the fuel.
Let us know how things progress. Most all of us have had a similar issue at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I hear ya on the "while i have the engine out I might as well________(do everything)"

After a lot of contemplation I've decided I'm going to pull everything off the block and take it to a machine shop. I don't know what I'm looking at and I don't have a workspace suitable to rebuild the engine.

The heads were just rebuilt/machined so the top end it in good condition. The engine isn't the original so numbers don't matter. My daily driver is a monster truck, so gas and good mileage isn't a major concern of mine.

The engine was recently rebuilt (May 2014) but the owner died shortly after so the car sat for about a year. My led foot on the interstate (maiden voyage) probably caused the spun bearing.

I'll post updates once I get it to the machine shop and hear what they have to say.
 
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