[tnblkc230wz]

When installing my new driveshaft with a 1310 U-joint, I noticed there was about a 1/16 gap between the u-joint and the tabs on the pinion yoke. I checked the old driveshaft and it was the same way. Is this normal? Should I make sure the u-joint caps are touching the tabs before tighening the straps?

I put the drive shaft in last Friday night. I noticed a slight vibration on Saturday that went away. The vibration came back today. I'm hoping I don't have a problem with the driveshaft or new transmission.

 

[taz3]

Check your front U joint usually that will cause a slight vibration if it's just starting to wear and you usually cannot tell until you take them apart. My yoke is the same way,but I too am chasing a drivetrain vibration. I think mine is pinion angle though.

 

[tnblkc230wz]

Check your front U joint usually that will cause a slight vibration if it's just starting to wear and you usually cannot tell until you take them apart. My yoke is the same way,but I too am chasing a drivetrain vibration. I think mine is pinion angle though.

The drive shaft, u-joints and trans yoke are new. I have a feeling this is normal and the caps need to be against the tabs. I'm don't know for sure though.

 

[Baddbob]

The driveshaft needs to be centered so you can't pull the caps 1/16" off of the cross to get it them tight to the tabs. It sounds like the wrong joint is installed. Measure your joint width and see if there's a u-joint available that's wider but has the same cap diameter.

 

[taz3]

The drive shaft, u-joints and trans yoke are new. I have a feeling this is normal and the caps need to be against the tabs. I'm don't know for sure though.

OK, I just checked my #'s matching 12 bolt and the ujoints sits in much more snug then my other one. This could be the problem or cause of our vibration. There is no movement at all, with the ujoint in the saddle, my other one is almost sloppy in comparison.

 

[bowtie0069]

I got rid of that slop once a long time ago--with a BFH! Closed it right up.

 

[taz3]

I got rid of that slop once a long time ago--with a BFH! Closed it right up.

So, it should be OK to close them up with a few good taps, from a BFH, I think that'll be today's project.

 

[tnblkc230wz]

The driveshaft needs to be centered so you can't pull the caps 1/16" off of the cross to get it them tight to the tabs. It sounds like the wrong joint is installed. Measure your joint width and see if there's a u-joint available that's wider but has the same cap diameter.

The u-joints are correct, I think it is the yoke

OK, I just checked my #'s matching 12 bolt and the ujoints sits in much more snug then my other one. This could be the problem or cause of our vibration. There is no movement at all, with the ujoint in the saddle, my other one is almost sloppy in comparison.

You are probably right. I'm not sure way it didn't vibrate with the old shaft. Maybe I just go lucky

I got rid of that slop once a long time ago--with a BFH! Closed it right up.

BFH or buy a new one. I'll try the BFH first, but with my luck, I won't get them centered.

 

[taz3]

BFH or buy a new one. I'll try the BFH first, but with my luck, I won't get them centered.

I don't think it will matter, usually binding or wear cause the vibrations.

 

[tnblkc230wz]

I took a good look at the yoke today and notice the tab on one side is worn very thin. The other side looks new. I was able to wedge the u-joint against the new tab and the vibration is gone. Looks like I need to Moser tomorrow and order a new yoke. The bummer is I could have had the new drive shaft made with 1330 joints for no extra charge.

 

[taz3]

I ordered one too!

 

[tnblkc230wz]

I ordered one too!

How are you putting yours on? I plan to use Big Al's method; torque down to 100 Ft/lbs and call it a day. I don't think counting turns on the nut will work with a new yoke.