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Discussion Starter #1
This is on an old 4 lug dif. I put the nut back on after changing the seal and it seems to hit a brick wall about an 8th of an inch before my marks line up. My friend was saying perhaps when I screwed it on the threads grabbed at a different spot. I was afraid to force through it so I just left it..

It all seems to spin nice and free and the shaft doesn't have any play. I was just curious if it was normal for the last 8th of an inch to be really tough.. Should I tough it out or just leave it?

Don't wanna kill that old lady on the freeway with a flying drive shaft :devil:
 

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If its easy, you're not doing it right!
That last little bit might take a big cheater to get there, just dont go past the mark.
It cannot start in a different place on the threads, theres only one male and one female thread.

HTH,

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Alright I'll torque it on there. I just didn't want to break it if there were bearings or something I could damage.
 

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You have hit the point where the crush sleeve is being preloaded. You will need to go a little more.

Miles
 

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If you marked just the yoke and nut its likely the yoke went back on and is now not clocked in the original spot. You should have marked the pinion shaft, nut and yoke so the yoke goes back on the exact same spline too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I marked the pinion so it went on the same spline. Though its possible the tire rotated a bit while I was removing the nut and I didn't notice.. So its possible it could be one or two splines off. Will this hurt anything?

I marked the nuts orientation with the center shaft not the pinion.

It doesn't want to close the last 1/8 of an inch which is actually about an 1/8 of a turn.. I didn't measure it or anything just a guess.

It will probably close but it will take some serious torquing. I was afraid of breaking something.

-Tom
 

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The center shaft is what I am refering to as the pinion. The yoke is what the driveshaft connects to. If you put the yoke back on and it is one or 2 splines off this would explain things. It needs to be on the same spline for all the marks to line back up.
 

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If you marked the nut & the center shaft the yoke clocking wont matter. The marks should still line up.

Miles
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you marked the nut & the center shaft the yoke clocking wont matter. The marks should still line up.

Miles
Good I marked both. Sorry for not clarifying. The yoke was marked in relation to the differential itself and the nut was marked in relation with the pinion shaft. It was really hard to get the nut off. The impact wrench struggled.. Maybe it is supposed to be that tight.. I will try torquing it slowly and check to see that the diff is still working smoothly as I do it..

-Tom
 

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If you marked the nut & the center shaft the yoke clocking wont matter. The marks should still line up.

Miles
That's true, I thought he only marked the nut to the yoke in which case the clocking would matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Someone told me that the old 4 lug rear ends were assembled with shims rather than a crush washer.. I'm not knowledgeable about rear ends (on cars) :turn: but it could be the reason why the torque is so high on that nut. I have no idea if there is any truth to this.. Just what I was told.

At any rate I will get under there with a cheater and torque it down the rest of the way until the marks line up.

-Tom
 

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I think the Danas are shimmed like that instead of the crush sleeve.

I know it takes a lot of muscle to tighten the crush sleeve (unless you partially crush it in a press) when you assemble with new parts.:yes:
 

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The 4 lug drop out uses a crush sleeve not solid shims.

Miles
 

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My thought is the crush sleeve is already crushed from the previous build and it should not need that much force to get about 95% to the marks. Seems he is quite a ways away fronm the marks and I would not just get a monster breaker bar and have at it. The last one i did a few months ago was not that hard to get back to the marks. I used locktite on the threads and a teflon sealer on the splines...
 

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Truck 12 bolt

Im about to do the same thing to a truck 12 bolt. Should it be really this easy of marking the nut to the pinion shaft, remove the nut, remove the seal, then go in reverse?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Im about to do the same thing to a truck 12 bolt. Should it be really this easy of marking the nut to the pinion shaft, remove the nut, remove the seal, then go in reverse?
Sounds easy don't it? :turn: The tough part is getting the seal out. Yep U also gotta count the turns.

I did actually get a big breaker bar and torque it on.. I mean the marks were pretty close.. I had a real tough time getting the thing off. I mean really tough.. I had to borrow a compressor and an impact wrench (thanks pete) and that BARELY got it off. After about ten minutes.

Seems to be working. Its been probably 4000 miles since I changed the seal and refilled it and not a drop of diff fluid has leaked out and its not making any noise.

-Tom
 
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