Chevy Nova Forum banner

21 - 40 of 48 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
Pete said:
It is an L79 cam

advertised @5 degrees lift lobe angle

320/320 221/221 .447/.447 114

Is there a downfall if you too low of a stall?

Thanks for all the help guys.

Pete
Well if you have too little stall it will effect the cars launch. For example lets say your cam maker suggests a 3000 + rpm stall cause the cam is designed to start making power at 3000 rpm and above. You install a 1800 rpm convertor. When you go to launch the car hard the car at most will be launching at 1800 rpm 1100 rpm lower than the power band on the cam and the launch would very likely be mushy/sluggish. The car once rolling however and got up to 3000+ rpm the power would pour on and the car would appear to come to life. This is JMO.

One thing that is interesting is that your advertised duration is 320 degrees but your @ .050 duration is only 221. WOW that seems like a big difference. With 320 advertised duration I would expect to see about (ballpark guess) 270ish @.050 duration. Hmmmmm....you wouldn't happen to have the grind number and the makers name? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
69NovaSS said:
One thing that is interesting is that your advertised duration is 320 degrees but your @ .050 duration is only 221. WOW that seems like a big difference. With 320 advertised duration I would expect to see about (ballpark guess) 270ish @.050 duration. Hmmmmm....you wouldn't happen to have the grind number and the makers name? :confused:

The cam is an original L79 cam PN#3863152 from Chevy.
:cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
Well cool...that cam though it is sold through GM is actully made by Crane. Possibly they might be able to give you some answers as to what the best convertor stall speed for your combo would be.

I just looked though the PAW cat. and in the cam section they have a little guide to help you pick the correct cam. They say for a cam from 215-224 degrees of duration @ .050 they normally have the following characteristics.

Idle quality: fair idle with slight lope
Power band: excellent mid range throttle response 2000-4800rpm
Torque band: excellent mid range torque 2500-4000rpm
Axle ratio: 3.55-3.73
Compression: not to exceed 10.5:1

Not sure but maybe something in the low to mid 2k range would be just about right with that cam....Just a thought... :)
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
This might help. If memory serves me right, this should be the 327/350 hp camshaft.
3863151 Hydraulic Flat Tappet
This hydraulic flat tappet is used on the 65-67 Corvette and Chevy II L-79. It has excellent power and torque (ID# 3863152). The duration at lash point in degrees (intake/exhaust) is 320/320; duration at .050" tappet lift (intake/exhaust) is 221/221 and maximum lift with 1.5:1 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is 447/447. Valve lash is zero/zero and lobe centerline is 114 degrees.
Most camshaft manufacturers offer a blueprint replacement of this cam because of it's popularity. These are Crane's notes on this grind.
Camshaft Kit, Hydraulic
Single pattern, blueprinted replacement for factory P/N 3863151 with 350 hp and 327 cu. in. camshaft.
Technical Notes: Basic rpm range is 2200 - 5200; cruise rpm at 60 mph is 3000 - 3400 and compression ratio is 9.5 - 10.75. The duration at .050 lift (intake/exhaust) is 222/222 degrees, and the valve lift is .447"/.447". Lobe centerline is 114.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
Yep that looks like what I saw for it. Looks like it should be a sweet little cam. And, though this is not a reason to choose a cam, at idle it should sound pretty good too. :cool: :)
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I have found several listings that put peak torque for this cam grind at 3000 rpms. According to B&M, the stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under your engine's peak torque RPM. My advise, be conservative in your estimate.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
I have the stock 3.08 gears with the 700R4 and a 350. Much like everyone here says it is great and very nice on the gas on the freeway.

I bought mine from Phoenix Transmission in Texas. Rated for 500 HP with a 2400 stall. I ordered mine with Dipstick, TV cable, torque convertor bolts, rear mount for the Chevy II, rear trans mount and carb TV cable adapters. They even asked about the final gears and tire size and put the correct speedometer gear in. Everything went together no problem.

There is a tail shaft that gives more clearence if you need it.

I lucked out, the previous owner had put in a TH350, but the 9" long tail shaft one from a truck. My driveline worked with the new 700R4 trans just right.

This 700R4 is designed for Auto-lock up. Any time you are in 4th and light throttle over 40, it locks up automagically. I just had to run power to 1 wire.

The point is there is a lot of aftermarket support for the 700R4. Trying to adapt a "Stock" one may be more pain than it is worth. Get one built for what you are going to do and you should be real happy with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Converter

I would say you are pretty much dead on with a 2400-2600 stall. I don't know why Chevy's advertised duration is so long on their performance cams. In fact one of their cams lists advertised duration at 366 degrees. I have often wondered how the duration can be more than the entire rotation!!! But going off of .050 lift is the best way if it is a Chevy cam. The L-79 cam will work with a stock converter but it will perform a whole lot better with the stall. Usually when using .050 lift as a deciding factor on the stall, I was always told stock converter will work fine with anything up to 220 @ 050. But, like I said the car will leave a whole lot better with a stall.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,210 Posts
NOTANOVA said:
I would say you are pretty much dead on with a 2400-2600 stall. I don't know why Chevy's advertised duration is so long on their performance cams. In fact one of their cams lists advertised duration at 366 degrees. I have often wondered how the duration can be more than the entire rotation!!! But going off of .050 lift is the best way if it is a Chevy cam. The L-79 cam will work with a stock converter but it will perform a whole lot better with the stall.

I believe that the duration numbers they talk about are based on crankshaft degrees of rotation not camshaft degrees of rotation. Remember the crank rotates at twice the speed of the cam. So in that case the 366 degrees they are talking about is for the crank. While the cam in that instance would only have rotated 183 degrees. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
tranny ?

I am also going with 700r4 in my 67, I have been told that a driveshaft out of a Vega is the correct length is this correct? and is it strong enough? not a race car but will want to show the punk kids a lesson or two sometimes when me and moma go cruzin!!!! the engine is around 400 hp 350 based on edlebrocks combonation of rpm stuff.
What mods to oe cross member or does anyone have spec sheets or details on how to modify the oe crossmbr?
thanks
rich
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
Since you can buy a better than factory quality crossmember for about $150 for this swap, I don't even think it is worth it to go through the effort. The new one will even have the space for dual exhaust pipes which the factory one likely will not.

IMO since you can make this a bolt in swap, why make it more difficult?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
Rich,
I got a 700R4 put in my car this spring and used a driveshaft out of a Vega. It was a bolt-in. I went to the wreckers and it just happened to be sitting in the back seat of the Vega :D . Took it home, cleaned it up and painted it, installed new u-joints and got it balanced before it was installed.

I got a hold of a crossmember out of a 65 Nova and began modifying it for the 700R4 swap but ended up getting one from Bowtie Overdrives. Real nice piece and it provides a lot of clearance for exhaust. I'd recommend getting one of those.

Send me an email if you want a wiring diagram for lockup using a toggle switch. The brake switch and plug for the tranny are are available at your local G.M. dealership, and you can pick up a toggle switch and wiring anywhere.

Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Thanks for the input. i will try to find a vega shaft and will go with the bto crossmember that seems to be the majority of the answers. Will the vega shaft take a few rips once in awhile nothing serious like weekend at the strip but if i want to light-em up i dont want to worry about a shaft twisting or busting a yoke.
rich :chev:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
Rich,
Not sure how much abuse a Vega driveshaft can take. I haven't taken mine to the track but have squacked the tires occassionally and light up the tires a bit in my driveway to amuse my little ones. :D I thought it would scare them the first time I did it, but they just laughed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
65 nova 700r4 conversion

I am getting ready to install an overdrive automatic in my 65 nova SS 2 dr coupe. My car came stock with a 283ci SB an a powerglide trans. I have converted the stock motor to a TPI setup from a 91 305ci Camaro. The conversion went off with out any major problems. I want to install a 700r4 trans to complete the conversion. My nova came with a center console floor shift. Does anyone have a sample of the detent that attaches to the shifter so I can use the original floor shift. I just hate to think I must spend 60.00 dollors on just the detent. I have purchased the lens. That was only 8.00, but to spend 60.00 on a piece of notched plate seems crazy. I would appreciate any photo's of the detent out of the car. Something I might be able to scale from and make one from the pic's. I am also intrested in a line on a crossmember that will work on this swap. Thanks for any help!


65 nova SS 2dr coupe 80,000 original miles
Chris Alston chassisworks front clip
TPI fuel injection 283ci .030 over (custom chip)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
730 Posts
Can't help on the dtent but I went with the bowtie crossmember as dwell. Wasn't a perfect fit but a couple minutes with the grinder and it slid right in. I went with a ratchet shifter but would have preferred a stock configuration

arndog
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,114 Posts
Ditto on the Bowtie crossmember. Others make them as well. I could have made one, but for the price, it wasn't worth it to me. It fit really well.

One thing to remember on the Shiftworks detent: It's heat treated like the factory one for wear. I built my own shifter for my 64 SS's console with a 700R4. All parts were heat treated for durability.

Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
0 Posts
things to remember

Hi, I just finished my 700 conversion, went with the bowtie cross member, drilled 4 holes in my subframe bolted it up, went with the 700 linkage to connect to my shifter, Now I don't know how to hook up the prndl to the shifter cause the old 74 one was machanical, also the speed O doesn't work because I have to find some sort of adaptor for the old mechanical speedo, another thing, I bought the detent and the wiring for the 700 right from bowtie no wasted time there and it was over 100$ cheaper than the ones at the autoparts store. Drove it around today, my temp gauge didn't even get close to 160 and it was 91 here in SWFlorida!!! thats quite a difference in the RPM. Well those are the thing to remember. good luck....
 
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
Top