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I am hoping someone out there has done what I'm wanting to do ( so I can copy off them, kidding ) I am wanting an overdrive transmission for my 64 Chevy 2 Wagon. I am not going to race it, but I am going to drive it alot on highways, etc. I am building a 350 eng. 4 brl. Carb, Alum. Intake etc. It will have power when I need it but get me where I need to go. I have questions on several things. I am leaning toward a 700 R4 and have access to one and a man that is knowledgeable about rebuilding them.
1) How dependable can one be for my application?
2) Any modification to the floor tunnel?
3) What types of shifters are available?
4) Can you use a bench seat with floor shift?
These are all things I need to consider ( and any others you can think of ) before I decide on rear end ratios, interior work, etc. Don't get me wrong I'm aways from certain things, but I like to know what I'm up against beforehand and if it is to expensive to do.
 

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A 700R4 will very dependable and will fit in with no modification to the tunnel. You'll need to obtain a tranny crossmember that will work with the 700R4 either by modifying a stock one or buying a ready made one. You'll need to address the TV cable and linkage, the dipstick and tube, the stock driveshaft will be about 3" too long. You'll want to take care of the lockup circuit so it works to your satisfaction.
You can use most any shifter for the tranny, from the stock column shifter to an aftermarket unit. If you have headers and want to use the column shifter, you will need to modify the column shifter linkage. If you use an aftermarket floor shifter you should have no clearance problems with a bench seat if you mount it properly.
I would select a rear ratio of 3.50 or higher to keep the final drive ratio from dropping much below 2.50.
 

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I also have a 1964 Chevy II Wagon.
I have swapped in a 350 and 2004R overdrive automatic.
The advantage to the 2004R is you will not need to cut your driveshaft, it has tighter spacing on the gear ratios, a greater overdrive percent, and it will definitely not require tunnel modifications.

You may not need to modify the tunnel for a 700R4, but not having done that, I cannot say for sure. Others here have and they will respond.

The advantage to the 700R4 are a steeper first gear than the 2004R, it is a slightly newer design, and it may be slightly stronger in stock form than a stock 2004R.

I am running a B&M Quicksilver shifter and have retained the bench seat. This shifter and a few others will work with either trans and can support either a 3speed ro 4 speed automatic.

Check out the WEB site for Bow Tie Overdirves. They are in Hesperia California and they specialize in overdrive conversions for Chevys. They have virtually every part needed for a bolt in conversion. Since I went with the 200, it was a bolt in swap. Not sure if they have driveshafts though. You will need a cross member, TV cable setup, trans cooler and lines, shifter, and overdrive switch. I have also installed a manual TC lock-up switch for (2nd and 3rd) and it is probably worth 1-2 MPH in the quarter.

I think Mike Gobel once posted what driveshaft was a bolt in for a 700R4 conversion, so it can be done without cutting your stock shaft.

My wagon will cut high 12 second passes at the track and on the first "Long Trip" achieved over 18MPG. I was pretty happy with that.

Oh, and by the way, it is still pretty good for hauling the mulch in the spring time too.

You will not regret this change.
 

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18 mpg... I almost hate you now Dan lol. I miss the days when I got over 20 mpg with the 2.73's and 200 4r. Now I get 13-14 mpg on the highway. Oh well, the price you pay daily driving a musclecar.

Kev
 

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I too have a 700r4 in my 67 Wagon. I retained the column shift with the help of a shift rod by Kugle(sp) ( I think I got it from BTO with my trans)...it has the swivel joints on each end and it came with the arm to connect to the trans. and a bushing for the shift arm at the end of the column, I had to form it to fit past my Doug headers, works great and I can get all the gears. The column shift allows for plenty of room in the front seat area for that third pass... ;) I also used BTO trans cross member; it has clearance for your exhaust, (real neat design). BTO also has the right type of hookup for the TV cable to your carb. Check them out at www.700r4.com.. Any questions. Just ask...Chris
 

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My 63 had a 700 installed in it a couple months ago. Huge difference in cruising and noticeable difference in fuel.

The installer had to pry the tunnel slightly with a screwdriver, other than that it bolted right up to a Bowtie Overdrives crossmember. He also had to modify the dipstick and tube length as it would stick up above the hood, but you can also get flexible ones available through Lokar and maybe other sources.

There are various brackets available for the TV cable, depending on which carb you are using. You may also have to get an adapter for the throttle linkage on the carbeurator to allow proper geometry of the TV cable. TV Made EZ systems are available for pretty well any carb you have through Bowtie Overdrives;
http://www.tvmadeez.com/pressure_test/index.php

I also had to convert to a cable throttle due to interference with the solid rod-type throttle lever.
 

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TH350 to 700R4 swap questions

Hey guys,

I am thinking about changing out my T350 to a 700R4. I currently have a 327 - 350 HP engine attached to a T350 with a 3200-3800 stall converter. The rear end has a powertrax diff. with 4:10's. I love the power off the line but because of the rear end gearing the car is not a highway driver (55mph at 3000 RPM). I have been in contact with a great tranny guy who is building me up a a 700 R4. He recommends that the new stall be a stock rated one at 1800-1900 RPM. Questions.. will I get close to the same performance off the line with the stall being so low? Will the overdrive in the tranny give me decent highway speeds with a much lower RPM? Should I have a higher rated stall put in rather than the one he recommends? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Pete
 

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Pete,
I can't tell you about the difference in performance off the line between the two torque converters, but I can tell you that you will have a considerable decrease in rpms on the highway with overdrive. You will probably be somewhere around 2000 rpm at 55mph compared to the 3000 with the TH350.

Here is a link for you for calculating rpm's;
http://www.dalesplace.com/htm/information/rpm_calculator.htm

How about lockup? Do you plan on having lockup manually via a toggle switch, or would you go with a vacuum switch? I wired up a toggle switch for mine after buying a brake switch and plug from my G.M. dealer which made it mych cheaper than going the vacuum switch route. Someone posted a wiring diagram some time ago, and I have it on file if you would like.

Setting up the TV cable is the most important job of the install, as doing it incorrectly can fry up the tranny in a manner of a few hundred miles. TV Made EZ by Bowtie Overdrives seems to be a pretty popular choice. I just installed a Lokar cable yesterday which seems to be working quite well.

Hope this helps
 

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Thanks for the reply Paul. I was told that I should go via electric lock up. I really have no idea what this means? I was on the Chevy2only site and was looking for all the parts necessary to make the changeover. I came up with these things...

FLEXIBLE DIP STICK FOR AUTO TRANS, 4 SPEED OVERDRIVE 700R4
16029 THROTTLE VALVE CABLE 700R4
KICK DOWN CABLE BRACKET ON INTAKE, USE W/ 16029 & 16014
16002 TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER 700R4
16055 CONVERTOR LOCK UP KIT FOR 700R4 & 200R4

Let me know if I am missing anything.
 

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700r4 swap

Pete,
Keep us updated on your progress!I think that we can use this use this th350 to an 700r4 swap as a way to help all members "walk " through the process and the parts,problems,cost,benefits,etc. that goes with a project of this type.
This would be the perfect time to start a real "how to" thread!

Whatta you think guys!
Mike
 

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He is probably suggesting a lower stall due to the higher numerical first gear of the 700. I would think you would want it to stall a little higher, maybe in the 2200-2400 range to get a decent launch with the 350hp cam. You might also check out the tv easy that Bowtie Overdrives sell. It makes the cable adjustment fairly painless.
 
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Bruce said:
He is probably suggesting a lower stall due to the higher numerical first gear of the 700. I would think you would want it to stall a little higher, maybe in the 2200-2400 range to get a decent launch with the 350hp cam. You might also check out the tv easy that Bowtie Overdrives sell. It makes the cable adjustment fairly painless.
Chevrolet used a convertor in the Corvette 700R4s with a stall speed of about 2075. I have been running this convertor for years with no problems. What can I say, my transmission builder hates B&M.
 

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I had a 700R4 in my TA untill I swapped out for manual.

Try to make sure that the core for the 700R4 is from an 87-up vehicle. From the factory internal changes were made to increase their strength.

As far as stall I would go with a 2400 stall with lockup. I had a stock stall then changed to 2400, nice change but not too much stall. I have 3.42 rear gears.

Good luck
 

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Ok... I've been doing my fair share of research on this change over and am finding lots of things. I have been looking at the Bowtie Overdrive site and liking the TV Made EZ kits, the complete circuit relay kit for the converter lockup, and the transmission cross member. The other stuff like the drive line, dip stick & tube and dust cover I will get through Chevy2only. I am still researching the issue of the stall converter. I am thinking though that I want at least a 2200 if not a 2400 stall. Anymore input?

Pete :eek:
 

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700r4

I had one in my 67, w/ a bowtie overdrives TV kit and a Lokar flexible dipstick. I also used the bowtie overdrives trans xmember. It worked awesome. If you don't have a gigantic high hp motor or lots of nitrous I'd say there is no other tranny to run. And I would run a little more stall, with anything any bigger than a 270 adv duration cam...stock converter will be sluggish. Even 260 adv duration with a smaller motor.
 

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Pete said:
What stall would you recommend?

Do you happen to know the specs for your cam? That would help a lot, IMO, when picking out a stall speed. :)
 
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69NovaSS said:
Wouldn't/Shouldn't the cam that you are running be a bigger influence on your choice of stall speed then the rear diff gear ratio? I would bet your cam card has a recomendation on it for stall speed or at least it should be able to point you in the correct direction.

For example the cam card below:

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brow...-400 C.I.&partNumber=110921&partType=camshaft
I agree. The cam profile should be the deciding factor. Sometimes, you have to make a compromise if there is not enough gear but that does not appear to be a factor. If a lock up convertor is used, and wired to be functional, convertor slippage at cruise speeds will not be an issue anyway. That opens the door to running more stall and seeing quicker dragstrip times.
 
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