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Im new here but i have a 67 nova and im just putting together the motor now. Its a sbc 350 bored .030 over. With 10.5 compression, .100 dome pistons, 267 @.050, 2800 stall, and 3.73 gears. I was wondering if the rpm or the vic jr would be best. Its mostly a weekend cruiser with occasional strip trip.
 

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You sure you got that right about that 267° @ .050" duration figure?? Cause that's a whopper of a cam in a 355, like 4200-8200 rpm power band.
The 2800 stall isn't even close to enough.
If that duration @.050 number is correct, the Vic Jr for sure...better yet would be a Holley Strip Dominator 300-25 or a Professional Products Hurricane.

Or is that 267° advertised duration?? Then the 2800 stall converter and 3.73 gears mostly fits the picture. Performer RPM in that case.
 

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If it's mostly a weekend cruiser I'd keep the 2800 stall, keep the dual plane and ditch that donkey **** of a cam. Running 4000 plus non locking stalls on the street get old really fast.
 

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What kind of cylinder heads? Double check your cam specs? Anything driven on the street is always better off with a RPM, the tiny gains from 5000 rpm and up, aren’t worth the trade offs.
 

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Since I don't weekend cruise at 5000 RPM, to me, that means no long duration cams, no single plane intakes, no huge intake runners, no high-stall converters, no 1 7/8 headers, no solid rollers, no 800 DP carbs, no 11:1 compression, no 3" exhaust, no aluminum flywheels.
Yes, over the years I've made most of those mistakes and I've found those cars "cruised" less and less and sitting more and more.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the info. My uncle put the cam in before he passed away and after some asking around it is an old lunati bracketmaster cam. 310adv duration [email protected] and .501 lift. I have a set of dart 200cc heads with the 64cc combustion chamber. Using solid lifters with full 1.5 roller rockers. I dont think he was building a street motor.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Im new here but i have a 67 nova and im just putting together the motor now. Its a sbc 350 bored .030 over. With 10.5 compression, .100 dome pistons, 267 @.050, 2800 stall, and 3.73 gears. I was wondering if the rpm or the vic jr would be best. Its mostly a weekend cruiser with occasional strip trip.
It is an old lunati bracketmaster cam. 310adv duration [email protected] and .501 lift. I have a set of dart 200cc heads with the 64cc combustion chamber. Using solid lifters with full 1.5 roller rockers. I don't think he was building a street motor.
If it was me (based on your driving/cruising expectations), I would change the the cam and lifters to a retro hydraulic roller with approx 280-290 advertised duration... and keep the 2800 stall converter and dart 200cc heads (if compression does not go higher then 10.5:1). I would be looking at the Performer RPM (... or even a Performer RPM Air Gap if hood clearance permits). I think you would be much happier with this combo for mostly street driving... but the engine would still have a nice sounding lope and should hall a$$ with 3.73's.
 

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I agree also, change the cam, you're really not gong to like how 267°@.050 behaves with only 2800 rpm stall and 3.73 gears. It'll sound like a freakin' monster and then get beat off the line by a bicycle while you wait for the rpm to struggle up to 4500 before the engine really comes alive.

If it hasn't been run yet, you can keep the solid lifters and just change the cam to a much more moderate solid flat tappet cam, maybe something like the 1970 LT-1 350 cam or the 1st Design Chevrolet Off-Road/Track cam("off-road" as it racetrack, not mud LOL)
You need to chop at least 15° off that .050 duration, and probably more like 20°+ off if using an aftermarket solid cam

Been a bunch of horror stories lately about Lunati quality since they were bought out by the same investment group that owns Holley, Comp Cams, Crane Cams, MSD, etc....so I think I would avoid anything purchased today from them.
 

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I ran that Lunati cam in a 350 back in the 80's but had a 5000 stall and 4.88 gears. It was a great cam for a bracket car but it won't be what you want with that combination.
 

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I dont think many here understand how a good high stall converter works. It doesn't rev up to that rpm before it moves... it slips a little bit but gets your engine up to peak power quicker.
My street/strip car has a 5200 stall 8" converter that I drive around on the street fairly often. It doesn't cook the trans, it is not really even noticeable until you floor it and the engine gets into peak power instantly. And there ain't no bicycle going to out 60' me...lol
Lots of options with no real experience with a good converter, not some off the shelf POS.
 

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Deeznuts, i know exactly what your saying, as my experience is the same.

You can't convince most guys of it though, they've read too many magazines, watched too many YouTube idiots, and listened to too many jackstand racers to believe the truth.

My point was 267° @.050 and 2800 rpm stall is not going to move smartly off the line at all...been there many moons ago...OP needs to change cams or change converters, one or the other.

You also can't convince guys that a good custom built converter is lightyears and warp speed better than that off-the-shelf B&M, TCI, ACC, etc $250 or less junk...even if both are listed at the same stall speed. They usually need a first hand ride in something that really moves to be convinced of it.
The cheap crap just slips to get stall rpm using rebent fins and loose clearances...a real piece gets the stall from proper fin angles and stator configuration while maintaining tight internal clearances.....but everybody just shops stall rpm and price.

I get a kick out of what he says at the end of this video...

 

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EricNova, exactly!!!

Cheap converters suck. If you are too cheap to spend about $1,000 on a custom built converter then get ready to spend lots more chasing things to attempt to make your combination run like it should.
 

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You also can't convince guys that a good custom built converter is light years and warp speed better than that off-the-shelf B&M, TCI, ACC, etc $250 or less junk...even if both are listed at the same stall speed. They usually need a first hand ride in something that really moves to be convinced of it.
The cheap crap just slips to get stall rpm using rebent fins and loose clearances...a real piece gets the stall from proper fin angles and stator configuration while maintaining tight internal clearances.....but everybody just shops stall rpm and price.
You don't need to convince me... as I have used both types of converters behind the same engine
(off the shelf and custom). There is no comparison. I had a 10" 3000 stall brand name "off the shelf" converter and hated it (mushy/sloppy feeling). While I was researching custom converters, I read a lot about positive vs negative impeller and turbine fin angles... and how they effect the "feel" and performance of a converter.

After I ditched the "off the shelf" converter, I purchased a 9.5" 2800 stall custom built Street Edge converter for my Nova and it made a world of difference in my overall driving experience. The Edge converter felt like a tight stock torque converter under normal driving conditons, but it brought the RPMs up quickly when I got on the gas! For me... the custom Street Edge converter gave me the best of both worlds!
 

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EricNova, exactly!!!

Cheap converters suck. If you are too cheap to spend about $1,000 on a custom built converter then get ready to spend lots more chasing things to attempt to make your combination run like it should.
I wouldn't say Cfab9 has to go to quite that much expense, for a street/strip up to mild bracket use you can get into something pretty decent custom built for between $375 and $500 up to around 4000 stall rpm for a non-lock-up trans and 550ish max HP....but yeah, if you want to play with the big boys or have a lock-up converter need it pretty much starts at $700 and up.
 

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If it was me (based on your driving/cruising expectations), I would change the the cam and lifters to a retro hydraulic roller with approx 280-290 advertised duration... and keep the 2800 stall converter and dart 200cc heads (if compression does not go higher then 10.5:1). I would be looking at the Performer RPM (... or even a Performer RPM Air Gap if hood clearance permits). I think you would be much happier with this combo for mostly street driving... but the engine would still have a nice sounding lope and should hall a$$ with 3.73's.
 

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I used a comp cam XE274H -10 part# 12-246-3 in a .030 over 350 with a combination very similar to what you have. Now not a "roller cam" but a budget minded cam that makes great low and mid-range for cruising on the street. Great combination in my opinion for the street.
 
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