Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 58 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
question has anyone on here ever done or seen someone overlap about 2 inches of old quarter with new quarter panel then tack weld all the way around then use body filler to get the exact curve you want? someone has appeared to do this to mine and i wanted to see if this is ok or should i cut it out and replace with new rear quarters. the persons body work held up just fine where this was done. sorry i'm new to this so i thought i would ask first :eek::eek::eek:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,614 Posts
question has anyone on here ever done or seen someone overlap about 2 inches of old quarter with new quarter panel then tack weld all the way around then use body filler to get the exact curve you want? someone has appeared to do this to mine and i wanted to see if this is ok or should i cut it out and replace with new rear quarters. the persons body work held up just fine where this was done. sorry i'm new to this so i thought i would ask first :eek::eek::eek:
An overlap is one way...easier, faster than a butt weld but must be welded completely...not tacked...surprising the filler hasn't cracked... It's your call whether you can live with it as is...if it's a driver....leave it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
yeah its a driver :yes: no Barrett Jackson car here:no: when i meant tack i was talking about tacking it all the way around until the tacks were all touching if you know what i mean i think its called "stitch" welding:eek::eek::confused::eek:
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,145 Posts
There is nothing wrong with that panel replacement method.
If you have iot down to the bare metal I would use All Metal or Metal 2 Metal as the first coat over the welds instead of regular filler.
Corrosion protection on the baskside is required (as with any weld method)
Prime, seal and paint the back or at the very least clean and undercoat.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
771 Posts
I'm doing almost the same thing. I've flanged the cutout around a quarter, and I'm not even going to weld it completely. I'll just hit it with mig at the bottoms front and back, and use panel sealant and sheet metal screws for the rest. I've read plenty of stories on here that this worked out just fine. I'm getting it so close, that the filler will be minimal. I even thought of breaking out the torch and leading in the gaps instead of filler.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,145 Posts
If you have a MIG, why would you even consider using screws?????
Absolutely no way I would ever use screws or rivets permanently in a body panel. I have seen plenty that I redo the correct way a few years later.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
771 Posts
If you have a MIG, why would you even consider using screws?????
Absolutely no way I would ever use screws or rivets permanently in a body panel. I have seen plenty that I redo the correct way a few years later.
NOOOOOOO!!! Not permanently! Just to positively secure the panel together while the adhesive sets. I can weld, but I'm no welder. That's why I won't tackle the complete weld. I'd warp the s*** out of it trying to get it right :eek:
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,145 Posts
You posted "panel sealant" the first time, I took that as seam sealer not panel bonding adhesive. Makes more sense now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i'm not much of a welder either but i'm good enough to stitch weld all the way around the panel the key is to skip around on the panel so you don't warp it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
what is panel bonding adhesive, what's it do? i'm lookin to patch my lower quarters on the 64 wagon. never seen er tried before, but it's our ratty beater (for now)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
PANEL BONDING ADHESIVE is freaking GLUE!

You really want your patch panels glued in?

Will this glue hold for five years, ten fifteen? How long do you forsee your keeping the car?

No thanks, I'll weld my patch panels.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
771 Posts
PANEL BONDING ADHESIVE is freaking GLUE!

You really want your patch panels glued in?

Will this glue hold for five years, ten fifteen? How long do you forsee your keeping the car?

No thanks, I'll weld my patch panels.
Well if you drive it on the street for 10 years, wouldn't you consider painting it anyway? That new panel "glue" is mean stuff! I'm sure that you'd have to cut the damn panel out to get at it. There's no way I can forsee, that it'll ever stop adhering. If I were well practiced in welding, I'd butt weld the whole thing, but that's just not how it is for me.

rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
Some of the new panel adhesives are pretty good stuff, they will last and set up strong. I personally prefer welding, but if you are unable to do so, the adhesives can be the way to go, plus the seal the entire flange, from the inside and outside, which will get rid of any moisture problems in between the layers of metal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
771 Posts
Some of the new panel adhesives are pretty good stuff, they will last and set up strong. I personally prefer welding, but if you are unable to do so, the adhesives can be the way to go, plus the seal the entire flange, from the inside and outside, which will get rid of any moisture problems in between the layers of metal.
Thanks. I plan on it!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,145 Posts
what is this stuff your talking about
All Metal and Metal 2 metal are body fillers that have aluminum in them.
They are more much waterproof than regular fillers. No matter how good your welds are you will end up with some pinholes in the welds. These fillers help prevent moisture from coming thru the backside. Regular filler will absorb the moisture and bubble.
I use these fillers over any welded joint. I apply per the directions then rough sand it to shape and apply regular filler over it to get the final contour.
When you buy some, only buy a quart and open it at the store to make sure it is not starting to get thick. These product have a poor shelf life, you need a store that turns their stock alot(sales, not rotating the can). Some stores don't carry them for this reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
I did not read ALL of the posts in this thread but I will throw in my 2 cents worth. Keep in mind I do paint and body work for a living (well on the side now). Normally I always butt weld everything when I do any kind of patch panel. It's not the only way or the correct way but it's the best looking and most professional I believe. I am very picky about doing things that you dont even see like floor pans and wiring under a dash, etc. I try to use as little filler as possible as well. The method you have described should be just fine as long as it's stich welded and not tacked in a few spots all around. Lab metal 2 metal will work find or even fine strand kitty hair and then filler over that. If it's going to be over lapped you will want to make sure the under panel is flanged. The best thing to do is on the back side of underside of the car, weld that up as well and seal it from moisture getting between the two layers and rusting from the backside out or else in 5-10 years you will be back to step one with stripping the panel and welding in a new piece. Weld on primer is OK but remember primer isn't a sealer against moisture and will still rust. I'd recommend some POR15 on the back side followed up immidiately with rubberized undercoating (with POR15 still wet so it gets a bite or else it wont stick to the POR15).
As for the glueing, I hear of a lot of shops going to this procedure now. I've seen it done and all the new big rig trucks with glass bodies and cars are all glued together, even metal cars, It is supposedly just as strong as welding, if not, stronger and it can flex without breaking or cracking. Again I have never done it but have seen it done and worked with guys who have worked on painting and body work on big rigs, buses, etc with glass and metal bodies. Some people may say it's junk but I bet 99% of the ones that say this have never tried it or never looked into it. You cannot bash new methods right off the bat, keep an open mind.
Anyways back to your quarter panel and on subject... Post some pictures of it if you can. From what your saying it sounds like it will be just fine!
Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
544 Posts
BTW, dont use lead. This is an old method of body repair and is not compatible with new paints and primers. I've seen it done successfully but dont recommend it. Even paint manufacturers will say no to this and will not cover the costs if the paint or primer fails when spraying it over poor body work like lead or old type fillers.
 
1 - 20 of 58 Posts
Top