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There is a test that a radiator shop can run to see if there is any combustion gases in the cooling system. You may have a bad HG or a small crack somewhere, allowing the hot gases to go into the cooling system.:confused:
 

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no thermostat

Just my own experience with an inline 6.I live in sunny (HOT) SO CAL.I know the purpose of a thermostat is to help a cold engine get up to operating temp quickly,I also know that when fully opened the thermostat should allow the proper amount of coolant to flow @ a predetermined rate.(the engineers @ GM have probably done their homework on this subject).I have a 63 wagon with a new 3 row hi efficiency radiator/new water pump, reversed flushed engine. new hoses new belts and a 160 degree thermostatThis car is my daily driver I know THIS car quite well.On a 70 degree day my electric autometer guage will read 170 degrees on the highway and 190 at extended idleing or in bumper to bumper traffic.On a 100 degree day (typical summer weather)my guage reads 180 0n the highway and 230+ at idle or bumper to bumper traffic . I realize I need a fan shroud to correct my problem in stop and go traffic. I m looking for one seems very hard to find. Anyways just as an experiment I removed my thermostat completely and it dropped my temperature by 30 degrees. I remember when I was a kid my dad would remove the thermostat from our 53 Chevy when we would take a trip across the Mohave Desert. I put my thermostat back in I have alot of confidence in GMs R and D .You are welcome to draw your own conclussions.
 

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Not to be a wise guy or anything but.....
My Dad would always start with the simple things and work up. I would always work the most complicated thing and work down. He seemed to always be right. What I'm saying is check the easy things out first. Radiator cap, thermostat, belts and hoses, ect. Then work your way up to ripping the engine apart.

I've seen a bad radiator cap make a car over heat more times than I care to admit.

Best of luck to ya.

Oh by the way the tube next to the rad cap is to keep the anti-freeze from getting all over your engine. Nothing more, nothing less.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Okay guys.. I did some stuff on the car tonight.. On the Stewert Comp page I asked the same question after I read all the info Mike provided.. There suggestion was to put one of there pumps in and thermostat.. Also to make sure there was no air.. Ive never had such a hard time getting air out of the system.. I started the engine and let it idle.. the thermostat came open and it was flowing coolant.. then it started to over flow and then the bubbles started to come out. then all of a sudden it blew coolant clear up to the underside of the hood.. so I shut off the engine and fillled it back up.. started it back up.. after I cleaned all the coolant off the driver way and probably killed my grass I was feed up so I parked it back in the garage...

Mitch
 

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I'm just taking a stab at this possible senario. Coolant level OK when first started. Thermostat opens. Flow begins and level rises followed by bubbles.At this point something seems wrong. How is the level increasing. Air getting into the system? Sudden strong gush of coolant out the rad. Again something seems wrong. To me it points out that air is getting into the coolant system. The air expands (steam?) and pushes up and out. If air is getting into the system, assuming the system has been previously burped, then how? Head gasket, lack of steam holes(if this is a 400 block), ???? Anybody else have any suggestions?
 

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Hmmm, i now have a headache..... im going back to my beer drinking. haha. If i think of something while drinking and thinking of this whole issue. I will then post. But for now im crosseyed.

Good luck to all you over-heaters.

Rennskii
 

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Discussion Starter #70
While waiting for my Sanderson Headers to come back from Sanderson and waiting for my Dart Alum heads to come in I pulled my old 883's off and found that both my cyl heads had blown head gaskets.. Which is good news and bad news.. The good news is I think I found out why i'm overheating but on the other hand is why did they blow.. It's like I always say.. Pushrods dont bend they "get" bent, head gaskets dont blow they "get" blown.. When I did my block I decked it and my heads I surfaced them also.. I dont suspect the block I know my heads are warped now... Well I'll put my Dart alum heads on with good head gaskets and see what happens..




Mitchc said:
Okay guys.. I know this question has been asked several times and I know I have asked before.. But I'm still having some overheating problems..

A bit of background.. I have a 62 with a 383 and TPI, 350 turbo.. I installed the Summit aluminum radiator SUM-380325 with a 16 inch elec fan. I put a new heavy duty Duralast CWP-520HD water pump (HD PUMP UTILIZES ROLLER BEARINGS, CERAMIC SEAL AND REDESIGNED IMPELLER WHICH DELIVERS INCREASED COOLANT OUTPUT.) 180 degree thermostat, new hoses, new 16 lbs cap, etc.. Running pre mixed antifreeze...

Running around town on a 80 degree day it runs about 200 degrees is what the ECM is telling me my temp gauge is in the left head and it says about 210. I can sit and idle all day long and never gets above 200.. I get up on the hwy and the temp jumps up to 230.. On a 90 degree day on the hwy it will jump up to 245 at the ECM and 250 on the gauge.. if I turn on the A/C oh my god.. 260 plus..

Any suggestions..

Mitch
 

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couple reasons, but improper initial torquing, overheating and warping, just a bad head gasket, remember they are just a gasket and a lot of extreme heat cycles on them as well as cylinder pressures
 

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Shane65 said:
I'm just taking a stab at this possible senario. Coolant level OK when first started. Thermostat opens. Flow begins and level rises followed by bubbles.At this point something seems wrong. How is the level increasing. Air getting into the system? Sudden strong gush of coolant out the rad. Again something seems wrong. To me it points out that air is getting into the coolant system. The air expands (steam?) and pushes up and out. If air is getting into the system, assuming the system has been previously burped, then how? Head gasket, lack of steam holes(if this is a 400 block), ???? Anybody else have any suggestions?
You're right about the good news/ bad news situation. Now all the other things you've done to solve the problem beforehand will make for some trouble free miles later. I happy and sad for you.
 

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I am wondering why your gasket doesn't have the coolant holes like the Felpro?
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Wow... I dont know why.. my brother brought me over a Fel=Pro gasket and it has the one hole on the botton but just two little holes on the top.. Anyone know why?

Mitch

Mike Goble said:


I am wondering why your gasket doesn't have the coolant holes like the Felpro?
 

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Mitchc said:
Wow... I dont know why.. my brother brought me over a Fel=Pro gasket and it has the one hole on the botton but just two little holes on the top.. Anyone know why?

Mitch
Interesting....looks to me like you are restricting coolant in the heads. No wonder they would get hot and possibly blow a gasket. Did you ever follow up with this?
 

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Mitchc said:
Okay guys.. I did some stuff on the car tonight.. On the Stewert Comp page I asked the same question after I read all the info Mike provided.. There suggestion was to put one of there pumps in and thermostat.. Also to make sure there was no air.. Ive never had such a hard time getting air out of the system.. I started the engine and let it idle.. the thermostat came open and it was flowing coolant.. then it started to over flow and then the bubbles started to come out. then all of a sudden it blew coolant clear up to the underside of the hood.. so I shut off the engine and fillled it back up.. started it back up.. after I cleaned all the coolant off the driver way and probably killed my grass I was feed up so I parked it back in the garage...

Mitch
One thing to remember. When you thermostat opens it takes a big gulp of coolant. Creating a cavitation problem for an instant. Try increasing your rpms when it opens and hold the rpms steady and finish filling the radiator.
 

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Lisle makes a nice coolant funnel kit that will allow you to top off the radiator without spilling...

Lisle 22150 "Spill-Free" Funnel
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Mike Goble said:


Lisle makes a nice coolant funnel kit that will allow you to top off the radiator without spilling...

Lisle 22150 "Spill-Free" Funnel

Where do you think you could get this kit.. I also saw on American Hotrod where they had some type of perging system for the radiatior.. anyone know where to get one..

Mitch
 

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Copy Lisle 22150 "Spill-Free" Funnel into the google searchbox and you'll come up with many places to get one. I had about 315 hits.
 
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