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Discussion Starter #1
My 62 wagon has a mild 350 and I'm running the Jeg's universal alum. radiator 25 3/4" X 19" with a custom built shroud and hayden 16 inch electric fan pn: 3600 rated at only 1400 cfm (came with car). My problem is this set up even though the fan does not pull much cfm has no problem cooling car down to 185 in stop and go traffic but at speed over 35 mph temp rises to around 205. I've read threads where the shrouds have flaps on it but not sure this is the problem.

Before I built the custom shroud at speed temps were closer to 215 and stop and go temps were 200. Could my problem be 1. The electric fan or 2. Not being able to expel hot air in engine compartment (heard cowl hoods help under hood temps).

Also made sure to seal core support so all air is forced through radiator.

Thanks,

Dreuski
 

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Whats the condition of the thermostat? I have drilled holes in the flat part of the thermostat to aid cooling. You could have a lower hose sucking shut while driving. You could possibly have a head gasket leaking combustion into the coolant. Thats easy to determine with a block tester.
 

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Temps

I personally do not find anything wrong with 205. Your motor was originally set up to function properly at 195. To idle at 185 makes us all feel good in traffic but I don't think going up to 205 while cruising is a biggie. What is the temp at prolonged highway speed. OH! I forgot you probably can't cruise prolonged, how about after several laps around the Island. ;)
A friend just moved to Hawaii and he emails the temp to us everyday :p
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies guys first off the head gasket is fine no leaking and lower radiator hose has the wire coil to prevent cavitating. Thermostat is a 160 not modified but working properly.

Forgot to mention but fan is operated by a manual switch but has to remain on the whole time to get the aforementioned temps.

I am going to install a relay for the fan to give it the proper juice hope this helps a bit but can't see it solving my problem.

I know some newer models like the 84-92 camaros used front air dams to direct air through the radiator and without them the cars would over heat. I don't care for that look so at this point I am leaning towards first a better fan and as money allows a cowl hood. Hate too just throw money at a problem, I really want to understand the issue. Any other thoughts would help.

Thanks.
 

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I have the same problem with my 383. I have tried everything I can think of but still have a running hotter than I want it to issue. Summit Alum rad, Stewert Alum water pump, Stewart 180 thermostat, red antifreeze, etc.. Summer heat running down the hwy will get up to 215 to 225.. I think the next thing I'm going to try is to get the air moving through the rad with some kind of duct system in the front. One thing I have been thinking of is the bumper covers about 1/3 of the lower rad.. I am thinking of cutting a slot in the bumper around the license plate area to let air in..

Thanks for the replies guys first off the head gasket is fine no leaking and lower radiator hose has the wire coil to prevent cavitating. Thermostat is a 160 not modified but working properly.

Forgot to mention but fan is operated by a manual switch but has to remain on the whole time to get the aforementioned temps.

I am going to install a relay for the fan to give it the proper juice hope this helps a bit but can't see it solving my problem.

I know some newer models like the 84-92 camaros used front air dams to direct air through the radiator and without them the cars would over heat. I don't care for that look so at this point I am leaning towards first a better fan and as money allows a cowl hood. Hate too just throw money at a problem, I really want to understand the issue. Any other thoughts would help.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Need more suggestions in bumper to bumper my electric fan, shroud and radiator do well cooling my ride but at speed the temps rise the longer I drive the higher it gets until it peaks about 215.

Has anyone had success using flaps in the shroud or even adding holes to improve airflow at speed?
 

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alot of those fans might blow the advertised CFM, but trying to pull it through a radiator....yea right. I tried several, at least a half dozen. OEM electric fans work very well and the best aftermarket one i found is the flexalite black magic, that baby did the trick.
 

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Another thing to consider is maybe building a radiator spacer that would go between the radiator support and the radiator if you have room. This would allow air to travel down to the bottom of the radiator that is blocked. Ever notice that a stock V8 equipped nova comes with one of these. I think they did that to obviously put the radiator closer to the fan, but I think they also did that to provide a little space between the radiator and the radiator support to let the air travel across the entire radiator and not just the part that is exposed to the opening in the radiator support.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just did a search under cooling and read the six page thread on this very issue, great thread. I also believe in starting with the easy stuff first. This is my second radiator cap 16 lbs. (no change) thinking of using a high flow thermostat or even removing it to see if there is a restriction problem.

I don't run a tach but my highway rpm's should be under 3000 rpm right?(stock 3.08 with 235 60 14's about 25.5 inches tall, I think.)

Let's start with the easy and not throw money at the problem. Is there anything else I am overlooking?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
1964novaSS Because my radiator is a universal model when I mounted it I ended up with about a 1/2" space between the core support and radiator. I then got some foam from Home Depot (weatherstipping section) and sealed the gap so all air was forced through the radiator. Just a note none of the radiator fins are obstructed by the core support.

Should I remove the foam and let the air flow through the gap between the core support and radiator?
 

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MY 72 had the same problem. 383, nasty solid cam, aluminum head, intake, water pump. I installed a 4 core brass with 18" stock flex fan. cooled fairly well but would rise during cruise to almost 200 but stopped and idle 180. bought a blackmagic 150 fan. Was worse than the stock mechanical. great Idle temp but cruise temp climbed drastically.

Opted for the summit aluminum direct bolt in (258.00?)with the stock flex fan. bingo 160 with a 160 stat at idle and cruise I dont know yet cause the temps here have been in the high 30s to low 50s so I cant give you a summer heat figure. But I feel it should be where ever I decide I want it to be.

I will try a electric fan one more time. prolly a mark8 or Turaus fan.



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A couple thoughts.

Could your radiator hose be collapsing at higher water pump speeds?

Where are you taking your readings from? The cylinder head is going to read 10* to 15* higher than the intake, in which case 215* at the tead may not be a problem.
 

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Leave the foam in. Another thing to think about is this. What kind of setup is your radiator? Is it a single pass or a double pass? Double pass radiators work much better than single pass radiators. I assume your radiator has a double
1" core. If you just have a sigle pass radiator, you may want to consider a double pass version. Luke
 

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Double pass radiators require 16x more pressure to flow the same volume of coolant through them, as compared to a single pass radiator. Triple pass radiators require 64x more pressure to maintain the same volume. Automotive water pumps are a centrifugal design, not positive displacement, so with a double pass radiator, the pressure is doubled and flow is reduced by approximately 33%. Modern radiator designs, using wide/thin cross sections tubes, seldom benefit from multiple pass configurations. The decrease in flow caused by multiple passes offsets any benefits of a high-flow water pump.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_5.htm
 

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I would like to hear more about the 1/3 of the radiator being blocked by the bumper in a 64. Has anybody played with the idea of cutting the bumper? I was thinking of making my licence a retractable one. Up when driving and down and visible when parked. Of course I would cut out behind the licence plate to feed air into the blocked area of the radiator. What do ya think?
 

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You might also try a couple bottles of the water wetter made by Red Line as well as several other company's. They do help lower the temp. Also what mix of anti freeze are you running. The less anti freeze, the better it will cool. Run the minimum amount needed for the temps in your area.
I have a universal aluminum radiator in my Blazer. It runs cooler at speed than at lower speeds. I have one of the electric fans with shroud that Speedway sells. It does not cover the entire radiator. About 4 or 5 inches is uncovered. I'm really happy with this set up. The Blazer's grill is wide open, which might I sure helps. Sometimes slowing the water flow thru the radiator gives the fluid more time to cool. Also, make sure your timing is not retarded.
 

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I would like to hear more about the 1/3 of the radiator being blocked by the bumper in a 64. Has anybody played with the idea of cutting the bumper? I was thinking of making my licence a retractable one. Up when driving and down and visible when parked. Of course I would cut out behind the licence plate to feed air into the blocked area of the radiator. What do ya think?


Note that the license plate area is cut out. The center of the valence is also removed. You can see the inner edge of the driver's side piece just inboard of the turn signal.

Sometimes slowing the water flow thru the radiator gives the fluid more time to cool.
Does it also give the water in the block more time to heat?
 

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Cooling issues

This may sound crazy but what pressure is your radiator cap. I had a 7lb and increased it to 15 lb and it helped some with the creeping temps at cruising speeds.
I agree with Funky the rad cap has to do a lot with the problem. I had cooling issues also. I decided to take the thermo out and it helped but not much. What helped was simply changing how the cap was put on, I saw the temp went down when I changed how the cap was put on. This pointed me towards a new cap and tata! heating prob was solved. I now have to put the thermo back in. :eek:

As far as temps these links will help a lot I don't think 200 is bad but I think with your setup it should run a bit more cool.

http://www.griffinrad.com/faq.php
http://www.griffinrad.com/faq2.php
http://www.griffinrad.com/faq3.php
http://www.griffinrad.com/faq4.php
http://www.griffinrad.com/faq5.php
 
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