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Discussion Starter #1
Some input please.. Hot day today and took the car out for a drive. Got caught in traffic for a bit and when I got to my destination suffice to say the car was hot. After about 15 minutes i got back in and tried to start it and nothing but a click:(. Starter would not engage. The starter is a new Hi-Po mini starter about three months and 900 miles old. Never had the problem before but was able to get under the starter with a screw driver and get it started to get me home. Hooker headers run right along side and I am thinking it just got to darn hot.
Anyone have a fix or suggestion.? Any recommendations for a more heat resistant starter?

Thanks
 

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they sell starter heat blankets on ebay for $20...worth a shot
 

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Check all you're starter and battery connections if they are all ok have you're battery tested. The starter will draw more amps when it's hot. RICK
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Battery is strong. Trunk mounted Optima always on a trickle charger. Just put the motor back in and replaced the starter and cleaned and secured all connections a couple of months ago. :confused:
Pissing me off because the old starter was not giving me a problem but replaced it any way because we had the motor out and apart so it was easy. Also the old starter was a cheap over seas one that i did not know the history of.
So now i have a new one and I know the history of it....it don't work when it gets hot.
 

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Hot starter

Just went through this with new 496, three new rebuilt starters, same thing with all three. Searched on line for the F#[email protected] selonoid (sp) but I didn't think it would do any good, still have to use the gm selonoid but after really thinking about this set up it dawned on me that by doing this the starter gets full battery voltage, when it gets hot it will need all the current it can get. Anyway, try it, I'll bet it works for you and it cost very little. Gary C
 

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Battery is strong. Trunk mounted Optima always on a trickle charger. Just put the motor back in and replaced the starter and cleaned and secured all connections a couple of months ago. :confused:
Pissing me off because the old starter was not giving me a problem but replaced it any way because we had the motor out and apart so it was easy. Also the old starter was a cheap over seas one that i did not know the history of.
So now i have a new one and I know the history of it....it don't work when it gets hot.
Make sure you have all (3?) grounding straps going from your frame to your block and/or heads. I had hot start issues until I realized that I only had the battery grounded to the rear frame rails and the previous owner hadn't reconnected the straps. Once I grounded everything, my hot start issue went away. You could run one from one of the starter mount bolts to the frame, as well.
 

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The issue is not the starter and it is not the solenoid. If the car started with a screwdriver, the issue is getting sufficient voltage to the small wire at the starter. More than likely that wire is not getting full 12 volts. A ford solenoid is a bandaid and does nothing for the battery cable other than killing it when the car is not cranking. What is happening is that IF your small wire is not getting 12 volts, it will not be strong enough to pull the block mounted solenoid in. A ford solenoid, acts as a relay. You connect your original small starter wire to the Ford solenoid. Then you run your original battery cable to the Ford solenoid, from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. Then you run a jumper wire from the big terminal to the small terminal on the starter. When you energize the Ford solenoid through the key, 12 volts goes through the battery cable to the starter and is jumpered to the small terminal and the car cranks. When you release the key, the Ford solenoid releases and the cable to the starter goes dead. HOWEVER, some permenant magnetic starters, AKA mini starters WILL NOT work with this setup and the residual magnetism in the starter will keep the starter engaged and cranking after releasing the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Appreciate all the input. In the planning stages for a heat barrier between the headers and the starter, remote solenoid and a hot start connection directly so as to make sure I have the full 12 volts going to the starter.
These were the redundant systems I asked for when I recently did the new engine and bolt on's. Unfortunately the shop who did most of the work insisted i didn't need it...and it was not done.
Really like the shop and trusted them but it was difficult getting them to set up several redundant systems through out the car as they insisted they knew better and the car did not need it. Guess he had so much business he didn't want to take anymore time on my job with others waiting in the wings...
By the way the new starter is a Tuff Stuff (6584B) gear reduction 1.9 H.P starter for SBC.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just to finish this for anyone with similar problems. Went to a remote mounted starter solenoid (lower left side fender well) using 2ga battery cable and replaced the jump wire with 10ga to the starter.
Should be good once i get over the idea it now looks like my 65 Mustang with that solenoid sitting there....

So far no issue but won't know for sure until next summer: rolleyes:..
 
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