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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all may need to replace my block and was looking on the internet, found the following for $2249. Is this a decent setup or is there better out there. Specs:

4 bolt main block
eagle cast steel 3.75" crank
eagle sir 5.7" rods
pistons: Kb or sealed power hypereutectic 7cc valve notched
10.0:1 comp w/ 64 cc heads
file fit rings

my top end which is all new would include 64cc alum trick flow heads and cam, air gap rpm intake, aed 750 carb.

I need to know if this block is a decent deal for a street/strip car. Thanks again.

Len
 

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Shop around more!!
Like this??

Unit Price: $1,599.97 gets ya---

Chev 383 Short Block
These fully assembled short blocks include a seasoned GM 4-bolt block and an "All New Stroker Assembly"! Featuring a Scat cast steel crank, Scat 4340 I-beam rods with ARP capscrews and your choice of dish (9.7:1 w/64cc chambers) Speed Pro Coated Hypereutectic or flat top (10.9:1 w/64cc) Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons. The block is fully stroker clearanced and hand assembled, by dedicated professionals, using new Clevite performance bearings, Perfect Circle Moly rings, and brass freeze plugs. Externally balanced. No core charge!

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SB383-D

Just look around a little more. I'm sure you can find something even better.
 

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Doesn't this sound better? All forged components that you could make big power with for $2295:

SB Chevy Short Block Assembly

Eagle forged 4340 steel crankshaft, internal balanced

Scat forged 4340 steel I beam connecting rods, with ARP 7/16 rod bolts

Manley forged Pistons

Performance Moly Pistons Ring Set

Clevite 77 / ACL high performance rod & main bearing set

Seasoned 4 Bolt 87-95 late style 1pc seal roller block

Dura Bond Cam Bearings

Dura Bond Finishing Kit

Pioneer Brass Freeze Plugs

Victor Reinze Rear Main Seal

Professionally Machined, Balanced, Assembled and blue printed in house by CNC-Motorsports. Balance card and blue print sheet will be provided to the customer
 

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11,072 Posts
Or for the budget build $1399:

Here at CNC-Motorsports our short blocks start with premium cores. We first start by clean, magnaflux, and sonic test the thrust sides of the cylinder walls for a minimum of .200” thickness after overbore. All blocks are then line honed to get a baseline for all of the BHJ blueprinting fixtures. From this point we square up the decks using BHJ’s Blok-Tru to get the desired deck heights. Once this is done we bore the block using BHJ’s Bore-Tru to get the desired spacing. There are quite a few blocks that are not able to have this done, due to they are either to far off from the factory or previously bored in the past. Either way we utilize this procedure when possible.

The next step is the honing process. We install main caps and torque plates to ensure cylinder bores ends up as true to actual running conditions as possible. In our honing process we aim for around 30º crosshatch to achieve the most compression while still allowing the rings to travel. Bores are measured with plates still attached and recorded on the blue print sheet.

Once all the machine work is completed, the block is washed and prepped for assembly. During the assembly process, all components are measured and corrected to obtain correct clearances. All of these measurements are recorded on the blueprint sheet.

Rotating assemblies in these short blocks are all weight matched, and the crankshaft is balanced with in ½ of a gram.

Here at CNC Motorsports we strive for excellence in our craftsmanship to provide our customers with the performance parts at a perfect price.



SB Chevy Short Block Assembly

Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft, External Balance

Eagle SIR Lightweight I Beam Rods, Press Fit

Keith Black Cast Claimer Pistons

Performance Moly Pistons Ring Set

ACL / Clevite 77 Rod & Main Bearings

ARP Main Bolts

Dura Bond Cam Bearings

Dura Bond Finishing Kit

Pioneer Brass Freeze Plugs

Victor Reinze Rear Main Seal

New Harmonic balancer and flexplate included.
 

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hi len66, i'm looking for a new 383 motor also. i'm looking at wheeler power products out of jacksonville fl. they will be at daytona with their display trailer with motors. they have a nice short block, all forged parts,for$2000. maybe we can meet up there and try to get a better price together:yes: here's a link to their ebay ad. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-383-Chevy-Stroker-All-Forged-Short-Block-Assembly_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem300272779305QQitemZ300272779305QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

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Or for the budget build $1399:

Here at CNC-Motorsports our short blocks start with premium cores. We first start by clean, magnaflux, and sonic test the thrust sides of the cylinder walls for a minimum of .200” thickness after overbore. All blocks are then line honed to get a baseline for all of the BHJ blueprinting fixtures. From this point we square up the decks using BHJ’s Blok-Tru to get the desired deck heights. Once this is done we bore the block using BHJ’s Bore-Tru to get the desired spacing. There are quite a few blocks that are not able to have this done, due to they are either to far off from the factory or previously bored in the past. Either way we utilize this procedure when possible.

The next step is the honing process. We install main caps and torque plates to ensure cylinder bores ends up as true to actual running conditions as possible. In our honing process we aim for around 30º crosshatch to achieve the most compression while still allowing the rings to travel. Bores are measured with plates still attached and recorded on the blue print sheet.

I truely CNC machine all our blocks and and to find blocks that are .200 thick on the thrust side after boring you must be throwing alot of blocks away. We probe out our blocks for blue print locations and maybe one in 30 blocks we can blue print bore if there is no ring ridge. Because of poor cylinder loctaions from the factory and with ring ridge in the top of the bores is another issue, We have seen cylinders off up to .032 off from blue print.



I would have to say you are a good salesman thats for sure and I would also say you have never sonic tested a block or bolted fixtures to a block before as its very time consuming and for what you get for a short block it very hard to believe you are even doing this and on a stock block its a waste of time I can tell you that!!!! What do you do with all your junk blocks throw them away!!! Right

We have all our old BHJ fixtures and don't find them to be as accurate compared to machining them in a 4-axis CNC machining center.

Go over this link on blue printing a block
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93124
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for all the leads. I will probably be pulling my motor in the next week or so and then I will no for sure if I need to replace it or not. This thread actually stems from an earlier post of mine regarding my motor running hot. I threw a v belt a few times and blew the head gasket. So I replaced the gasket and had block and heads checked for warpage,which there was none. I now have two mechanics with over 30yrs in the business who have been working the car over for the last 10 days and they cannot figure out why it is running hot.. we have checked all the usual stuff, pulleys, pumps, thermostats, timing, we have put different size restrictors in, we have used different temp gauges. We did find a 20* difference between the two heads. So after all this we decided to pull the block and pop the freeze plugs to see if someone possibly filled the block with anything blocking or restricting coolant flow. If the flow on the block is suspect then I will be replacing it. thanks

Len
 
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