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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As the design is more or less final I'll start a rebuild documentation of my project "Francis".

I asked Bruce Kaiser from Kaisercarart to get some renderings done on my ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My brother and his son are professional mechanics and my brother and I did years ago a lot of rebuilds - back than manly on Japanese or German cars because friends crashed it and needed repair.

I did rent a box in a shop, where I will do all the modifications and there I'll have access also to all tools I do not have.

Only the powdercoating and paint job I will have done by some professional staff.

As I'm still looking for the most fitting Nova I'll bore you with some theoretically plans and things I have on my todo list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Engine and Transmission - Chevrolet LTG 2.0 Turbo

Since some years I have this car in my mind

There are a bunch of reasons why I decided to go for a LTG 2.0 Turbo swap - the main one for sure is it will be something unique and unconventional!

There is a ton of engines, transmissions,.. available since it is used in a wide range of cars since 2013 and they are available to very affordable conditions.

the plans in detail:
Engine Chevrolet LTG 2.0 Turbo
Transmission LTG 6-speed manual RWD
ECM, wireing harness, A/C compressor, starter, alternator all in all from a used car parts dealer

the engine will get an extra ZZperformance fitness cure:
JE forged LTG pistons, valves and springs, rods, performance cams, cat downpipe, cold air intake and intercooler kit as well E85 conversion and the turbo (whenever one will be available again)
Mishimoto oilcooler kit and radiator as well the radiator hose kit
should be enough for something around 400hp
Clutch and Flywheel will aslo be changed to Clutch Master parts

The main challenge I see hear are the engine and transmission mounts as they have to be engineered by our own and the result should be s smooth running driveshaft!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Chassis

The chassis will be completely renewed except the front sub frame.

The front subframe will be reworked, weldings finished and smoothed out than powder coated.

BMR suspension A-Arms kit (AA029H) with the BMR's sway bar (SB004H) for the front and the BMR torque arm for the GM 10-bolt rearend (TAS010).
Accompanied by ViKing coil-over shocks (front VIK-A224-450TK and VIK-C205W for rear).

The rear end will also be reworked. The axle box also powder coated and the bearings, ring and pionion gear (will be 3,42:1), dura grip posi, axle shafts and differential cover replaced with Yukon Gear & Axle parts.

This should everything be a straight forwared job and will be the first things I going to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Brakes, steering and wheels

For brakes I plan a set of Wilwood Superlites, 6 piston calipers front and 4 rear; with drilled and slotted 12.88" rotors. rear will include a drum parking brake.

Wheels are Forgline FF3. As they offer custom backspace and offset the idea is 18x8" front and 19x9,5" rear. What will fit at the end some measuring will show and I have to keep an eye on what I get approved in Austria by the authority. At least there should be a set of 4x 18x8" on all ends.

Tires will be HANKOOK Ventus S1 evo2 245/40R18 front (and rear) and 285/35R19 rear.

For the steering I will go for Ride Techs Tru Turn Package - 1968-1974 GM "X" body - incl. Tall Spindle and add Turn One 12.7:1 600 Series Steering Box.

Will help to get the necessary tire clearance and also desired ride height.

ididit Ignition Column and a Grant 3-Spoke Black Design Corsa GT Style Steering Wheel will complete the steering staff.
 

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So I may be a little out of line for asking this, but are you dead set on the LTG motor? I only ask this because I also come from a world of imports with small engines and turbo power.

Typically speaking, the direct injected turbo motors are very prone to LSPI (low speed pre-ignition, or knock), connecting rod failure, and bearing failure from high loads and low RPM. Subaru's FA20DIT also falls under that umbrella. While they're happy revved up and ingesting boost, they hate being lugged and can detonate to death because of it. Heavy cars are a burden to these things, especially since they don't make a ton of torque until they're spooled up.

That aside... a turbo motor in a light chassis car is spritely and a riot to drive. While unconventional, it would certainly be different seeing one of those in a 3rd gen Nova. No matter what you do, your build will be awesome to follow progress on once you get going!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Interior, electrics and audio/sound system

the interior will be also intensively reworked.

If I get it approved than the Nova will have 4 single seats from Braum, Elite-X V1-racing front and Elite-X fixed back sport in black with 5-Point Harness.
Because of the AT authority I may have to stick with a bench in the rear as original also a bench was installed. Also the 5-Point harness may need to be replaced by 3-point ones.

I will have a custom console which I'll made out of MDF. Braum does sell the leatherette seat upholstery material (the black one as well the carbon style) in yards so I will use it also for the front edge of the dash as well the door panels and console.

The panels will be the 2nd most challenging part! The top part will be metal covered to be able to have a 100% matching painting. Rest as far my upholsterer and I will manage to create in reality.

air condition will be a Gen IV kit with Dakota Digital DCC-2400-V-S-B digital climate controller - should be installed where the original controller is.

From Dakota Digital I'll go for the HDX Instruments in km/h and degrees celsius with the ODB-II interface.

American Autowire my choice for the wiring kit

The console will host the switch for the Nu-Relics power windows as well for the Audi TT mirrors mounted on the door - 3rd challenge :)

For audio and sound I'm Pioneer addicted! Therefore in the center console the new mediacenter AVH-Z7100DAB 1din will find its place. Than there will be 2 sets of 2way speakers - front TS-C132PRS (13cm) and rear TS-C172PRS (17cm). They will be fired by 2 PRS-D800 amplifier located in the trunk. And finally 2 sub-woofers TS-W252PRS (25cm) and 2 PRS-D1200SPL amplifiers also in the trunk. In the trank 1 or 2 additional car batteries should find a home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So I may be a little out of line for asking this, but are you dead set on the LTG motor? I only ask this because I also come from a world of imports with small engines and turbo power.
from a weight perspective if you compare a Cadillac ATS and a Nova L6 there is not much of a difference.

The GM ecotec series is in Europe very common in Opels and as I know a very reliable motor. A friend of my owns a Opel Insignia 4x4 Turbo with exact this LTG 2.0 Turbo engine. He is very satisfied.

Of course you can overdone it. There are some stories and videos on youtube where some guys blow up there engine in a Cadillac ATS/CTS or Camaro.

I hopefully can confide for the setup of the engine computer and tuning on the service of a German Munich based shop. The shop is very famous for US cars and tuning and the owner very Chevy addicted, runs a view very customized Corvettes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Exterior

hopefully not to much work for myself when I found a solid body and I do not have to take care about any rust.

What I will do is shorten the bumpers that they fit better all around. The grill will be a billet one without turn signal lights. The signal lights will be integrated into the Delta Lights 7" round chrome Halo LED Factory Style headlights. The lights on the side will be removed and the holes closed.

To have the required signal lights on the side available I will install Audi TT mirrors on the door which have integrated signal lights.

If windows need to be replaced will depend on the condition of the existing ones.

One topic which I'm unsure about is the integration of a diffusor into the rear bumper. From the dimensions the lower part from a Kia Stinger rear bumper would fit and I like the look very much with the integrated exhaust tips. But this is more a question if I'm able to realize it from a technical point of view.

Paintjob will be:
1) Conventional grounding in gray
2) fill, sanding, fill, sanding, fill,....
3) Standox jet black base-coat (also onto the custom center console and the bezel of the dash)
4) masking the strips
5) House of Kolor KBC01 Candy Brandywine (do not forget the interior parts as dash and door panel to paint :D )
6) Clear coat
7) unmasking the strips and masking the rest
8) mate clear coat onto the strips

but paintjob will be done by a pro anyhow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Exhaust system

This will be one of the more challenging topics because of existing regulations in Austria.

Also I'm not sure with the BMR torque arm and the Wattslink how easy the pipes will be to install.

In the best case I'll use 3" Magnaflow stainless pipes from the downpipe to a 3" Y-pipe, than 3" pipes again to 2 XL Mufflers 4"x9" in front of the rear axle. Than route the pipes somehow to the rear bumper and depending on the solution with the diffusior I'll use 2 double round tips or 2 double rectangular tips.
 
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