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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I've had a few small setbacks working on the front end the past couple of weeks, and have been mostly waiting on parts. So I decided to start a small side project and take apart the grill. It's been in my way, and I keep tripping over it. So I took it apart, cleaned it up, and got all the parts over to the powder coater who happens to be about 5 blocks from my house. I think it turned out pretty sweet.











 

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Really brightens it up - you know it will look sweet with polished aluminum wheels and that paint color no matter what style wheel you choose, very nice looking car.

What does your buddy run those wheels on? usually see them on German cars...
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I picked up a block this weekend and dropped it off with Dave at Burbank Speed. It's a late model 350, 4 bolt, one piece seal. I gambled on it, but it kinda bit me. It was supposed to be standard bore, but it's more like .040 over. That's what I get for leaving my calipers at home. Dave says he's comfortable going .045 over. If he's comfortable, I'm comfortable.





 

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Nice build so far! My nova I just bought was my dads at one point that I managed to get it back and he was just as excited to get started as yours. Love that paint color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Build progress has been really slow the last few months so I haven't had any updates to post.

But the guys and girls over at Budnik were cool enough to let me test fit my wheels this weekend before they're welded and ceramic coated. Here's a sneak preview. :yes:



 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
New shoes! Big thanks to Sheila and Jason over at Budnik for all of the help with measuring and getting the right fitment. Very cool & helpful people over there.



 

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Great thread man, that's really awesome that you and your Dad are able to do that together! That car has some serious family history, love the pics at the very beginning when you were just a kid. Looks like things are coming along. Looking forward to seeing more updates as you progress along!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Great thread man, that's really awesome that you and your Dad are able to do that together! That car has some serious family history, love the pics at the very beginning when you were just a kid. Looks like things are coming along. Looking forward to seeing more updates as you progress along!
Thanks cdahl383! Progress has been a little slow lately, but I'm gearing up to start back in on it. I've been accumulating parts and doing some small stuff here and there. I'll be posting more progress pics in the next couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
My Nova is a base model, so it had manual everything. I'm upgrading to power windows (Nu-Relics) and door locks, which means I needed to cut some holes for wiring conduit. I should have done this before paint, but it was a bit of an oversight on my part.

I took a bit of time researching which wiring conduits to use in my doors, and how to do it. I didn't like the ones that came in the window regulator kit, as they kinked and seemed a little thin. I finally decided on using a set of El Camino boots. They seemed to fit really nicely without kinking or warping, and are really thick rubber. They also provided tons of space for any upgrades I might add later.

The big problem was the El Camino boot is 2" on the door side, and 2 3/8" on the cowl side. I was definitely worried about cutting holes that big, but I found the Greenlee knockout set with the perfect punches for the job. It wasn't cheap, about $170 for 2 punches.

* An important note about knockout punches. There is a difference between the stated size of the punch, and the actual size of the hole it cuts. A 1 1/2" punch cuts a 1 15/16" size hole, and a 2" punch cuts a 2 3/8" hole. Proceed with caution! I practiced on some sheet metal I had in my garage to be sure my El Camino boots would fit the cut outs.



 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Taping up and measuring to find the center point




Pilot hole drilled




Punch ready to go



Punch inside the door



I used an air impact gun to punch the hole. You can do it by hand, but it's a lot of work in a tight space. You can also buy a knockout kit with a hydraulic pump. I went with the cheaper manual version since I already an impact gun and compressor.




I repeated the same process on the cowl. The cowl side is a little easier since access isn't as tight as the door side.



Quick test fit of the boot and all looks good. I hit the raw edges with a little POR15 to keep the rust away. I'm giving that a couple of days to dry, and I'll seal it all up and screw them down. I'm thinking I'll use some stainless button heads.

 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
I finally got to finish running my brake lines. I used the full stainless kit from Right Stuff. The front to rear set fit perfectly. It took some doing to get it in, especially around my subframe connectors, but it fit.

The rear axle set technically fit, but the shape and bends were really funky and ugly, so I re-bent them. I would have liked to contour them to the axle a little better, but they were far too short. I may redo them at some point for a cleaner fit.

I forgot to get a picture of the right side before re-shaping it, but it was at least 6 inches higher than the picture below and didn't contour to the diff housing at all. Here's a before and after of the left side.



 
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