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Discussion Starter #1
My timing gears were grinded down and plastic was missing so I believe it is in the oil pan.

Is there any suggestions on removing the oil pan?

Is it possible to remove without pull the engine out?


Thanks,
DuDe
 

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1st/2nd or 3rd gen?? Slightly different procedures on each, but yes, it should be possible to remove the oil pan with the engine in place.

I did it on my 67, all I had to do was drop the center steering link. A front sump pan may require dropping the motor crossmember. All easily done. :)

As for 3rd gen, I dunno. :eek:
 

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yes it ca be done on a 3rd gen....

unbolt and remove the big bolt in the engine mounts(the bolt the connects the engine mount to the frame mount) remove dist cap, raise motor as high as possible (being careful not to damage anything by hitting it against the firewall) put wooden blocks between motor mounts and frame mounts and lower motor back down....BUT try to keep it as high as possible (this only needs to be done if you used a floor jack to raise the motor....if you used a hoist dont lower motor down;) ) unbolt oil pan and try to remove pan...if it hits the cross link of the steering...remove the one end of it that bolts to the subframe then lower the cross link outta the way and then drop the pan...too easy...be careful:)


I hope I covered it all
 

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If you are running headers, be carefull you do not dent your floor with the collecter flanges.I had a 71 z28 and did just that when I was changing a broken motor mount.
 

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Im afraid not bro, if you dont lift the motor like 69NovaSS said then theres no way it will come out,at least to my knowledge:geek: .if you mannage to make it work without lifting it up -share the procedure with us,lol.....later:D
 

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It slides right out in a 4th gen :D

Kev (factory disc brakes, front steer, modern suspension... yep tough life owning these crappy cars!:))
 

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Here are generic GM in-car pan removal instructions from the GM shop manual.
1. Disconnect battery neg cable after turning engine so balancer timing mark is at 6:00 position. (straight down)
2. Remove air cleaner and set aside distributor cap so it doesn't crack when you jack the engine. You may have to remove the dist. for clearance.
3. Remove Fan shroud or just upper half if it has it.
4. Raise vehicle and drain oil
5. Remove exhaust crossover
6. Remove torque convertor cover
7. Remove engine mount through bolts
8. Remove oil pan bolts and lower cover.
9. Raise engine (wood block under front damper) and reinstall through bolts (for safety, do not torque)
10. You may have to rotate crank so forward crank throws are horizontal.
11. Remove pan.

Watch out for stuff like fuel lines, wires & power steering hoses.
 

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While you are in there, check the bearings. Here's another tip. Replace the rear main seal, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay. Where is a good place to put the jack under the engine??

Thanks for all the replies guys :)!
 

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maybe others will chim in with a better location but the only place I have found to do this is too use the oil pan sump....put a piece of wood between the jack and sump to spread out the load and be very very careful
 

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I use the same method as 69NovaSS. I use a piece of 1x8 that fits under the sump to distribute the load. Works great. Don't know of a better way.
 

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i understand the main question is if there is a need to pull the motor to get at the oil pan, but this needs more explanation....

My timing gears were grinded down and plastic was missing so I believe it is in the oil pan.
so what he is asking is too just see if its in the oil pan.......see if pulling the drainplug and draining the oil shows anything....get a penlight and look in there if you really wanna see....i think getting the pan off while the motor is in the car is the least of these possible problems
 
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