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its a pain in the ace to say man, everyone has different opinions and use different types there are a bunch of threads on this, search them up u will find the answer you need :yes:
 

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I don't know about oil, but I sure love the K+N oil filters.:yes: That 1" box wrench/socket fitting really helps when you have oily fingers!:D
 

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Yes and Carquest filters are Napa gold filters( I think) by Wix.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my daily drivers. I still use Kendall 20/50 even though its not green anymore. Next race engine I do Im gonna try the Brad Penn oil. I hear lots of people talk about the Joe Gibbs oil too.
For off the self stuff valvoline racing 20/50 is good too.
 

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Valvoline 5/30 in my Honda and Suburban, always used 20/50 in the Nova til recently when I went to 10/40--Occasionally I'll run Durablend when it's on sale. I tried a few synthetics in the past, never saw much for the extra cost.
 

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What are you guys using in your cars and what type of motor are you running?
I run Brad Penn in my hot rods, including my race cars (30w Break-In in the new gas builds, either 10w30 or straight 30w or 40w in the gas engines, and Nitro 70 in the alcohol engines). I run Amsoil 5w40 in my diesels.

For filters, I use System 1 or Wix in my race cars and Baldwin and Donaldson in everything else.
 

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NAPA gold (WIX) filters...........like a few others. As for oil, I'd say pick a brand and go with it. I'd think that many brands are bottled in the same place, just a different sticker on it. I use Quaker State (fossil oil) in my car, and Motomaster Synthetic (Canadian Tire brand) in my daily drivers.
 

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Mobile 1 5W30 in my Nova. Mobile 1 Euro 0W40 in all my other cars, including Diesel
 

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I have a 385 sbc ft SOLID CAM...VR1 10W30 synthetic or VR1 straight 30

I use Valvoline VR1 racing..

in the 2005 Chevyl 4.8 SILVERADO. I use pennzoil platinum 5w30,

in the wifes 1998 Tacoma, 205,000 miles.. it gets Mobil1 Extended performance 15W50.. till it got over 150,000 it got mobil1 10w30

the compressors get Valvoline VR1 straight 30, the lawnmower gets Valvoline VR1 straight 30
 

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I use, ok ready, shell rotella T. Yup, diesel truck oil in my nova. Dont ask why. LOL JR
 

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I use, ok ready, shell rotella T. Yup, diesel truck oil in my nova. Dont ask why. LOL JR
Up until recently, that was one of the better off-the-shelf, readily available oils that had decent levels of ZDDP. With the increase in diesel emmissions equipment, and oil requirements following suit (just like the gas engine oils), that is quickly decreasing, too.
 

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Oilin'

Not long ago VENO started the thread "ZddP and modern oils". The information in that thread is INVALUABLE and much of the information in there VENO acquired at his own expense. It should be required reading for everyone...especially for those running flat tappet camshafts in their engines. In short, new does not mean better. Modern oils no longer offer the same wear protection they once did all in deference to the EPA.

Also included in that thread are other links. Those links are just as valuable. Take the time to read them. In doing so you will learn why it is NOT a good idea to use "racing" oil in street driven vehicles; why it is NOT a good idea to use diesel oil in gasoline engines and why it's NOT a good idea to use synthetic oil when breaking in an engine. The scientific information is all there.

The good news is there are some oils out there that remain (almost) unchanged. There are also oil supplements that can offset current formulations.

And, finally, you will learn how to read the oil "classification" information on the back of the oil you purchase so you have the peace of mind of knowing you are purchasing the right oil for your vehicle.

Take the time and do the homework.
 

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Valvoline...VR1 10W50...with Zinc Comp Cam additive . 327cui.. 160 degree thermostat...Hot weather central valley Ca.
 

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Not long ago VENO started the thread "ZddP and modern oils". The information in that thread is INVALUABLE and much of the information in there VENO acquired at his own expense. It should be required reading for everyone...especially for those running flat tappet camshafts in their engines. In short, new does not mean better. Modern oils no longer offer the same wear protection they once did all in deference to the EPA.

Also included in that thread are other links. Those links are just as valuable. Take the time to read them. In doing so you will learn why it is NOT a good idea to use "racing" oil in street driven vehicles; why it is NOT a good idea to use diesel oil in gasoline engines and why it's NOT a good idea to use synthetic oil when breaking in an engine. The scientific information is all there.

The good news is there are some oils out there that remain (almost) unchanged. There are also oil supplements that can offset current formulations.

And, finally, you will learn how to read the oil "classification" information on the back of the oil you purchase so you have the peace of mind of knowing you are purchasing the right oil for your vehicle.

Take the time and do the homework.
X2...also, if you can read some of the information George Morrison (RIP), a dear friend to the lubrication industry, published. Another resource is www.bobistheoilguy.com. As a lubricants retailer, these are a couple of sources I often refer.
 
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