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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Well its time to rebuild my front end and I think its best to do it right "and then forget about it" As most of us know Nova 62-67 have a infamous frontend which is know to be pretty weak and messy. I wanna change this without getting an aftermarket clip from Heidts or Alston. I was thinking of upgrading with poly bushings and the bearing kit for the idler arm, then a lock out kit eliminating those darn caster bolts. Ive been looking at this page http://chevy2only.com/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=5&MMN_position=10:8
And in the classic industry catalog, even global west.

Someone tried these parts, do they work?? Any other tips to make the front end and the adjustments to last?

All help will be appreciated, please share your experience on this topic.

Matt
 

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I think there was some talk about the poly bushings being rough on the stock strut rods. There is also a conversion kit available for that. Do a search, kceb10 just recently fabricated a version. A heck of alot cheaper than the one available aftermarket. I think this is the link:
http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34925

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks USMCNOVA,
I know about the strut rod issue, people have warned me for using polybushings in those places. Ive seen the 1962-67 NOVA STRUT ROD KIT #16231 with spherical rod ends, but how does this work down the road? I bet it work great at the strip, but doesnt this make the strut rods TOO stiff for road use? Anyone tried these?

Thanks for your input!
Matt
 

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You can make an early Nova handle just fine with no special arms, etc. Make sure your spherical joints are in good shape. You want to use poly bushings in the upper and lower arms, rubber bushings in the strut rods. The idler arm works well with the ball bearing kit, but there are early solid bushed versions that work well, too.
I would use the Global West adjustable lockout kit and subframe connectors. The subframe connectors will make a large difference in the handling.
You can adjust the steering box to take some of the play out of it.
You can replace the front anti-sway bar with a 1" to 1-1/8" unit, depending on the cornering expectations, as well as install some good gas shocks on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Mike & YFH8SIT.
Mike, yes I want to keep as much parts close to original as I can but still improve them. So this is what I have planned to do:

1. Replace all balljoints
2. Poly bushings in upper and lower control arms
3. New rubber strut rod bushings
4. Ballbearing kit for idler arm
5. Lockout kit
6. Subframeconnectors
7. New gas shocks
8. New springs
9. 1 inch anti sway bar

I guess this is about it, or have I missed something of importance?
I've rebuilt one 1st gen Nova frontend before, but was using only original parts back then, so I guess the work wont be a problem...
 

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If you haven't already; it would be a good time to upgrade to disc brakes. "Boxing" the lower control arms is another common mod; I think C2O sells the plates or you can easily fab your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No Im using the 5 bolt 1964- spindles since I have converted this to V8 & TH 350 transmission. There's a 305CUI in right this moment but Im building a 383 street motor that should be there when all the other mods are done to the car.

I have the 9 1/2" drums right now, but seriously planning for a disc brake conversion kit, I think I will be needing one in the future =)

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Someone who has pics and measurement on "boxed" lower control arms? I can easily make the plates myself and weld them in, but Im not sure exactly about their size on the length. Do you use to box the whole arm or just a part of it?

Some figures would sure help
Matt
 

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Hey Matt,
It has been a while since we emailed one another. Last I heard you were driving a truck I think it was.

Anyway, I boxed in my lower arms with the aid of a picture from Mike Goble. You can easily fabricate your own plates for this, but avoid the area where your sway bar mount is as you'll need access. Also, go all the way around the end at the bushing. I got a socket that was a good diamter and bent my metal around that to make it fit nicely. It makes for very easy bushing replacement next time once you do that as well.

Hopefully my pic works.
 

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Matt,
If you will be converting to discs and have the 64-67 spindles already you are all set as far as spindles go, however you will have to cut some of the stop material off of the lower control arm if you still have your 63 lower control arms.

There are quite a few posts here about disc conversions as far as parts selection and kits go, so make sure you do a search if considering the disc conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Paul,
Nice to see that you are ok and still hanging on this forum =)
Thanks for the info and pic, great!
Matt
 
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