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I recently installed a rear sway bar kit from CPP for 62-67 Novas. The kit is manufactured by Addco.

The kit retails for $130, and comes with everything you need for the install.


The directions in the kit are not very good, so hopefully my pics can help others out.

The first step is to split the bushings and install them on the bar.



Then I put the clamps on the bushings.


After the bar is ready the u-bolts go around the rear axle tubes. The u-bolts supplied with the kit were incorrect, but after a call to Addco they sent me the correct u-bolts immediately.



The correct u-bolts are about 3.25", so keep in mind they dont fit super snug on the housing.


Also make sure you reroute any brake lines that may interfere with the u-bolts. Do not install the u-bolts over the brake lines.

Next you install the plates on to the u-bolts. You may need to squeeze the u-bolts a tad to get the plates on, and the plates will stay in place and wont slip off.


Now the sway bar can be loosely mounted to the rear axle.


Then I installed the sway bar link assemblies for mockup.


The tricky part is to rotate the sway bar on the housing so the link arm is parallel with the framerail. Having a buddy here helps, but I struggled through it. When you rotate the sway bar be aware of any interference with rear end components. If you cant get the bar perfectly parallel its no big deal. After the bar is in place tighten the u-bolts.



The directions do not have torque specifications (unfortunately), but I tightened the u-bolts until the plates just barely begin to bend on the axle tubes. At this point you can slide the bar to center it to the car.

Next you want to bring the link assemblys up to the framerail and mark where you need to drill two holes for the brackets. Some exhaust systems may interfere with the link assemblies. I cut mine off and will reroute it later


My frame already had a hole from my old exhaust hanger, but luckily it didnt cause any issues.

After marking the frame to drill I double checked that I had the spacing correct (very important).


After drilling the holes you can slide in the c bolt.



Now the link assembly brackets can be installed to the framerails.



I am going to put a lot of load on the bar when I autocross so I marked the u-bolts to keep an eye on them in case it ever moves (bad angle on the pic but you get the idea).


The install was pretty easy, and took a bit over an hour.

Why run a sway bar? Sway bars reduce body roll keeping the applied force on each tire more equal through cornering. This increases traction through the corner. I am tuning my car to handle well, and felt the addition of a rear sway bar would improve my Nova's handing. Traditionally a rear sway bar would increase oversteer, but I was experiencing so much body roll, I felt the rear bar would distribute forces on the rear tires more evenly and decrease oversteer a bit by providing better rear traction. After my test drive I was suprised the bar did in fact increase traction a bit coming out of a corner, and even in a straight line! The real test will be at my next autocross event next month!
 

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I would really like to know how this works. I would like a rear sway bar, but have been wary. Test drive and check a lot. Let us know.

I had a similar setup on my pickup. I know heavier etc. Bigger bracket that was notched with teeth to fit and grab the rear end better than this one. It kept moving up or down and could have ripped out my brake lines. No matter how much torque I used on the U bolts. I came to the conclusion that if the sway bar was not on top or bottom of the housing, the bracket would have to be welded to the housing.
 

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i put one of those addco sway bars on my 63 in the early 80,s just so you know that upper frame bracket will pull right out of the thin sheetmetal framerails:eek:,those c bolts tear right out.best to reinforce that frame area before you tear it up. BEEN THERE AND DONE IT,i yanked that POS off the car real quick:yes:.also the rearend mounting brackets will move all over, weld them on the houseing,didnt notice that big of a differance with the rear bar before it tore the frame brackets out.when the rear axle brakets move you will see the back of the car lean on one side,and the car will PUSH in the turns
good luck don
 

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I've had that same rear bar on my car for almost 2 years now. C-bolts are still in place and the axle tube mounts don't appear to have moved at all.

I don't hammer on mine like your gonna do Bryan, but I'm very happy with it and noticed substantialy less body roll after the install. I'm sure when I get around to installing multi-leafs in the rear and the CBR rack kit and coil overs up front I gonna wanna follow ya to some auto-x events:yes::yes:
 

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Definately keep us updated! I agree about the frame rail deal because as soon as I saw the picture (before reading the post about this) I thought the same thing about the C bolt ripping through the thin sheet metal frame rail (or what Chevy called a frame rail).
As far as your suspension setup goes, what do you have done to your front end? How well does your car handle in turns and such? I would love to get my 63 wagon to handle nice with a CPP Mini Sub kit, front and rear sway bars and good shocks. I doubt it will ever handle like a little import car or anything but should be a little bit better than stock handling. :confused:
 

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Superb write up!
Thanks for taking the time to document your installation.
Please supplement it with a follow up on your real life experience.
 

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Hey brian,
Thanks for posting the detailed install photos. I have been thinking about adding a rear bar myself. Now go out there and flog it and give us a report back:yes: After reading the one guys comments about the mounts moving around, I can see how that might happen. I'd be real interested in what you find with yours. (I know you will push it to it limits:D:D:D) It might not be too hard to make some weld-on brackets for the rear end if it proves to be a problem.

Ron
 

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i put one of those addco sway bars on my 63 in the early 80,s just so you know that upper frame bracket will pull right out of the thin sheetmetal framerails:eek:,those c bolts tear right out.best to reinforce that frame area before you tear it up. BEEN THERE AND DONE IT,i yanked that POS off the car real quick:yes:.also the rearend mounting brackets will move all over, weld them on the houseing,didnt notice that big of a differance with the rear bar before it tore the frame brackets out.when the rear axle brakets move you will see the back of the car lean on one side,and the car will PUSH in the turns
good luck don
i will go over to plumrats shop this monday were my car is getting redone and take pics. of the damage those frame mounts did to the fake framerails on my car,were not fixing the damage as we are putting real rear frame rails in for medium tubs,the stock rails are comeing out.the mounts get tore out when the car goes into full extention of the body:yes:
don
 

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What a great, detailed write-up.. Thanks for the time bud..

Are those poly bushings?? A trick I have read about was to wrap the bar with some teflon tape then install the bushings to reduce any squeaking. Not that I know there is any, just thought it was a nice trick. Prolly the only use I can see for teflon tape LOL

I also wondered about the frame mounts tearing into the frame. You will obviously be keeping an eye on things from the sounds of it. If the holes start egging out a simple 3/16" plate welded to the bottom of the frame will keep things in check. Dunno if you will be able to thread that C bolt back though the thicker metal though. Deal with that IF you get to that road.

I was wondering how you were gonna get the frame mounts up there when I was going though the pics. I think its an ingenious idea to be able to fish that C bolt in there. I think the key is to make sure the nuts are really torqued down tight to prevent any movement. A loose connection will allow it to eat itself up. But if it is really solid, and I mean in the range of 80 foot lbs or more then the clamping force takes the load, not the holes. I think it will be fine if it is firmly clamped.

Great shots!!! JR
 

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Great wright up. Sure is nice to see guys do it right and not just chop things up like some do. Like all the guys that had my car before I got it. GOOD JOB!!
 

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Looks like you might have left some parts out. The heavy U brackets go between the differential housing and the flat slotted u bolt bracket.
 

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Looks like you might have left some parts out. The heavy U brackets go between the differential housing and the flat slotted u bolt bracket.
Good eye. They are prolly meant to support the U-bolt bracket to keep it from bending and alignment to keep it square with the axle tube. JR
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Looks like you might have left some parts out. The heavy U brackets go between the differential housing and the flat slotted u bolt bracket.
The heavy bracket was supposed to be used to hold the brackets in place while positioning the bar, but they were more of a pain then they are worth.

i put one of those addco sway bars on my 63 in the early 80,s just so you know that upper frame bracket will pull right out of the thin sheetmetal framerails:eek:,those c bolts tear right out.best to reinforce that frame area before you tear it up. BEEN THERE AND DONE IT,i yanked that POS off the car real quick:yes:.also the rearend mounting brackets will move all over, weld them on the houseing,didnt notice that big of a differance with the rear bar before it tore the frame brackets out.when the rear axle brakets move you will see the back of the car lean on one side,and the car will PUSH in the turns
good luck don
Thanks Don. I see the weak points in the design, but I think it will be fine for street driving. I am brainstorming some preventative measures to enhance the strength on all the mounting points before I try autocrossing.
 
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